HVAC opinions needed

[bigcatonhd]

After 25 years it's time to replace our complete heating and cooling system. I currently have a LP (too far in the sticks to get natural gas)basement furnace and normal A/C condenser and coil system. Does anyone have any opinions on going back with the same set up versus going with a heat pump? My installer says the newer heat pumps are vastly superior to the units I remember. The ones I remember from years ago always seemed to blow cool air (I know it wasn't but it felt cool) and had tendencies to freeze up. What do ya'll think? Oh by the way I live in SC...winters aren't bad...rarely in the 'teens and then not for long at a time. Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[m1gunner]

In your area a heat pump with gas packs for backup heat.

 

[dodgeit]

I'm in the Upstate as well, and have had a heat pump for 20 yrs. The heat is still different, than say gas or oil heat but it is not bad. When it really gets cold (teens) the heat strips kick in and help out. If you want hot air out of the registers get the gas pack, if warm is ok just get the heat pump.

Do your home work and get the highest SEER rating you can afford. Minimum 13 SEER. At some point it doesn't give you a fast enough return on the investment to go higher, for example say a 13 SEER outfit costs $3000.00 and a 14 SEER costs $4000.00 but a 15 SEER cost $6000. And lets say with each SEER # higher you go you save $10.00 a month on the electric bill. If you bought the 14 over the 13 you would start saving money, after 8.3 years ROI. If how ever you bought the 15 over 13 you'd be buying a new unit before you had saved the $3000.00 difference on the electric bill. Based on the 15 year life expectancy of a HVAC system.

Make sure your house has the max rating for insulation (call your electric company for an inspection) it will save you on your power bill as well, because they give you a discount rate.

quiz the installer to make sure they just don't stick in a new unit without measuring to make sure your intake is the right size for the unit your putting in. I'm sure you remember the "MAD AIR" commercials from a few years back.

 

[don95sml]

I'll play the devil's advocate and recommend that you stick with LP. There's nothing like cozy warm air coming out of those registers. In addition to the furnace we have a water heater, clothes dryer, and Heatilator fireplace running off the LP tank. The fireplace does not have electric ignition, so even with the electric power out we still can get heat in at least one room. Most of our neighbors have heat pumps and continue to relate horror stories about the lack of real heat and the unit's short life.

 

[m1gunner]

What temp do you try to maintain indoors during the winter?

 

[n4zov]

I've lived in houses with both installations, and I prefer the gas heat over the heat pump simply because it heats the house faster and maintains the temperature better during colder weather. The heat pump really struggles to maintain heat during extremely cold weather but it performs satisfactorily 95% of the time. Incidentally, I am talking about central Alabama weather.

 

[oldRoger]

Well as you know the ability of a heat pump to warm the house depends upon the temperature differential, and falls fast below about 30.
I would opt for the heat pump with gas back-up. Even though it's not really economical in FL from an investment stand point it, makes a great HVAC system, the further North you go the better it pays.


Keep in mind that dependent upon what the dim-wits in congress do, (cap & tax) LP may become cheaper than electricity in the future.

 

[S&WIowegan]

When I bought my house 20 yrs. ago it had heat pumps(which ain't worth a damn in Iowa). I put in all new systems about 5 yrs. ago. I highly recommend TRANE A/C units and gas heat. The new units are Soooo much more efficient you save lots of money.

 

[Rikkn]

WE just replaced our system ( in Greenville, SC ) 2 weeks ago. Went with a Rheem 14 seer system. We had a hybrid gas boiler system which worked great for heat, but our AC compressor died and we decided to replace the whole system. Bought the parts wholesale, I removed the old stuff, put new in place, added a 220v line, then paid a licensed tech to do the hookups, thereby validating the warranty. Cost for parts was
$ 2,400.00, paid the tech $ 300.00. The supply house estimated the job at $ 9,000.00 if his contractors did it. We have the boiler ( which is like new ) on craigslist for sale.

 

[Jerry in SC]

If you like the room temp warmer than 72 degrees in the winter, add a gas pack to the heat pump. I would recommend a variable speed air handler. Natural gas prices were really going up when mine kicked the bucket four years ago, and chose a heat pump. It's not as comfortable in the winter as gas heat, but saves me a lot of money.

 

[pred]

Use a Rheem or Ruud, 14 seer or higher, If you go with 16 seer I believe you will get the 1500 dollar Govt rebate. Keep the heat pump and go with propane as back up heat.
In many parts of the country electric heat = Elec discount in winter months.
A heat pump should never freeze if set up properly and the newer ones should be able to keep a house at 70* even is 20* outside.
Peter

 

[Retired LTC USAR]

Check into a hybrid system. Uses heat pump in the warmer temps (down to about 30) and then the LP furnace wil kick on in the colder temps. I had a new HVAC installed last year using a American Standard (cheaper Trane system) components and have enjoyed it, plus I have seen a decrease in utility bills. The system I replaced was the original one which was about 22 yrs old.

 

[bigcatonhd]

Thanks for all the input....decisions, decisions.

 

[gunlovingirl]

I have a heat pump. Hate it. The previous owners had it put in maybe 6 or 7 years ago. The energy rating on it is at the lowest end. He no doubt bought a cheap one. It works, keeps me cool in summer and warm in winter, but the electric bills are high. I've heard a lot of people say the heat pump is the way to go, and maybe it is. But I don't believe I'd ever buy another one. There's a light on the thermostat that shows when the heat pump is being bypassed in the winter, because it's "too cold" outside. The light seems to be on more than it's off. And it doesn't get that cold here. Maybe a more efficient model would be better and result in lower electric bills, but I'm definitely not happy with the one I have. The house I had in Michigan had hot water baseboard heat. Very even heating and pretty efficient. I'm sure there are a lot more knowledgeable people here to give you opinions, but I hate my heat pump! By the way, the thermostat is set at 74 in summer and 68 in winter.

 

[m1gunner]

I have a heat pump. Hate it. The previous owners had it put in maybe 6 or 7 years ago. The energy rating on it is at the lowest end. He no doubt bought a cheap one. It works, keeps me cool in summer and warm in winter, but the electric bills are high. I've heard a lot of people say the heat pump is the way to go, and maybe it is. But I don't believe I'd ever buy another one. There's a light on the thermostat that shows when the heat pump is being bypassed in the winter, because it's "too cold" outside. The light seems to be on more than it's off. And it doesn't get that cold here. Maybe a more efficient model would be better and result in lower electric bills, but I'm definitely not happy with the one I have. The house I had in Michigan had hot water baseboard heat. Very even heating and pretty efficient. I'm sure there are a lot more knowledgeable people here to give you opinions, but I hate my heat pump! By the way, the thermostat is set at 74 in summer and 68 in winter.

You have either a poorly installed unit or one that is grossly undersized for the load.

It matters little what size the house is, what matters is the heat loss or heat gain (depending on wether you are heating or cooling). My heatpump easily maintains 68 F in the winter, even with outside temps @ 10F, and the backup strips do not come on to do this.

The reason for this is excellent insulation, properly installed - not just stuffed in the stud spaces, and a solid plastic vapor barrier, no gaps or open seams.

Your house needs to be so tight that it is obvious when you open or close a door wether a window is left open. Untill your house is all but airtight, you will be paying to heat the outdoors.

It is more than just adding another 4 inches in the attic, if it is an old home, it also means reinstalling exterior door frames, replacing windows, and possibly tearing off sheetrock and sealing the walls.

A heatpump is more efficient in moderate climes than gas heat, but will not be a moneysaver if the house is so drafty that it is in emergency mode all the time.

In the SE US, a properly constructed, sealed and insulated home can be heated or cooled for $1 a day.

 

[Pasifikawv]

There are energy tax credits available on many new HVAC systems. Whatever brand you decide upon, check to make sure it qualifies for the energy-efficency tax credit. No need to pay more taxes than necessary...