I am so Pi--ed off! I dropped my 3" 66 in the gravel yesterday.

M

Marshal Tom

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I have a what was, pristine 66-2 3" that was unfired until I obtained it a couple of months ago.I had only had it out of the house once to shoot it until yestereday. I decided to take it camping with me over night. I was carrying it out to the camper in a simply Rugged holster that was for my CS-1. I bent over to put the step out on the camper and the gun fell from the holster to the ground, in the grave! I was so upset that I could not even see straight. \

Ahrends grips that were perfect now have some dings in them. The 66 received several dings to the metal. This gun had one little mark on it when I purchased it.

Should I send it to S&W to have them buff it out or should I try the Scotch Brite Pad method? If I try the Scotch Brite Pads, what ones should I use to keep the original finish as close to original as I can?
 
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I have a what was, pristine 66-2 3" that was unfired until I obtained it a couple of months ago.I had only had it out of the house once to shoot it until yestereday. I decided to take it camping with me over night. I was carrying it out to the camper in a simply Rugged holster that was for my CS-1. I bent over to put the step out on the camper and the gun fell from the holster to the ground, in the grave! I was so upset that I could not even see straight. \

Ahrends grips that were perfect now have some dings in them. The 66 received several dings to the metal. This gun had one little mark on it when I purchased it.

Should I send it to S&W to have them buff it out or should I try the Scotch Brite Pad method? If I try the Scotch Brite Pads, what ones should I use to keep the original finish as close to original as I can?
 
The green scotchbrite that you get in the grocery store will give a finish amazingly close to S&W's brushed stainless. Go with the existing grain, and you won't believe your eyes. Nothing to be hurt by trying, either. You can always send it to the factory along with $200 or so, and they'll take care of you.
 
this is why I like a "beater" for field use. using one I got already scobbed up keeps me "seeing straight".

the green scotchbrite pads are pretty aggressive, best for deep scratches. for smaller scratches look for the gray scotchbrite pads.. auto supply houses usually sell them. white is the least aggressive.

search this forum under "scotchbrite" and you'll find numerous threads on this subject.
 
Man, I know the feeling. It has happened to me, but not from a holster, but from my buttery fingers in my cold, numb hand. A mint Colt Agent, droped right on the muzzel on concrete.

Didnt affect accuracy, and some cold blueing helped, but hey, ouch. I have seen worse, and had other drops, but they were indoors and no signs of hitting the floor.

I would not spend any time fretting...past tomorrow...! Then wipe it down good, and head to the range. Shoot the crap out of it. If you get it refinished, what happens if it (shudder)gets tossed again? Just shoot it. OR you could just send it to me, and I will shoot it for you!
 
You might want to try some linseed oil on the stocks, or clenzoil. It darkens the lighter color where it was scuffed up.
 
I've been there and done that, more than once. Yes, it hurts today. Twenty years from now when you're holding that revolver in your hands, those little dings will be what gives it character. Time heals all wounds and blemishes. Don't sweat the small stuff. S&W doesn't build "girlie guns" unless you put pink grips on them. They are made to take a beating and if every one which has ever been dropped was ruined, we'd all be in trouble.
 
Originally posted by Marshal tom:
I have a what was, pristine 66-2 3" that was unfired until I obtained it a couple of months ago.I had only had it out of the house once to shoot it until yestereday. I decided to take it camping with me over night. I was carrying it out to the camper in a simply Rugged holster that was for my CS-1. I bent over to put the step out on the camper and the gun fell from the holster to the ground, in the grave! I was so upset that I could not even see straight. \

Ahrends grips that were perfect now have some dings in them. The 66 received several dings to the metal. This gun had one little mark on it when I purchased it.

Should I send it to S&W to have them buff it out or should I try the Scotch Brite Pad method? If I try the Scotch Brite Pads, what ones should I use to keep the original finish as close to original as I can?
Click to expand...

Do nothing. It now has a character mark. Use it and enjoy it. If it really bothers you, send it to me. I will shoot the hell out of it!
 
Yes... that definitely sucks. However, it's a working gun and working guns will show wear and use. The first scratch is always the hardest to take. It gets easier after that.

Consider this, it fell out of the holster when you didn't particularly need it. How badly would have it sucked if it fell out of the holster as a wild animal or a two-legged predator made its way into the campsite? Given the potential circumstances, you might consider yourself somewhat fortunate.
 
I do have the gray Scotch Brite pads and have been working on it all night. they are better now. I am going to take it to a local gun smith in the morning. He does excellent work and builds beautiful rifles. I will see if he can buff out the little dings for me.

Thanks much,

T
 
Don't fret...
you now have a characteristic dimple
on your precious
 
I agree with the others, especially MaineProbation, use the least agressive method to take out what you can on the stainless and look at the slight mark as a battle scar. If you took a good cut camping and lived, would you go and get plsstic surgery to hide the mark, or point to it later in life and brag?
I still have the 686-1 that I bought new in '86, which I dropped in creek gravels and did basically the same thing as yours, I can't remember exactly what I used to buff it but I do remember using Flitz or some such to blend it in. Now I have to look for the marks and when I do find them I just shake my head and smile.
Here is a trick to try on the stock dents, and old woodworking bit most have probably heard of. Take a soldering iron and let it heat up, dampen a clean rag and place it over the dent, then touch the hot iron to the rag over the dent and press for a second or two. The steam will pull the dent out. Polish that and give it a swipe of linseed oil (as previously stated) this works really good.
Enjoy lifes pitfalls, mistakes are the only thing we call truely call our own, everything else belongs to someone else.
RD
 
You are too neglectful. Send me an FFL and I'll have mine get hold of your dealer for shipping arrangements.
icon_biggrin.gif
 
Well now you have to send it to Marc Morganti of Gemini Customs for a full house custom job. It will definately need; dehorn for carry, action job, matte bead blast finish, and new springs. It may also need a hybra-port package and moonclip conversion- course this depends on how far it was dropped to begin with.

DSCN1578.jpg


DSCN1574.jpg
 
"Do nothing. It now has a character mark. Use it and enjoy it. If it really bothers you, send it to me. I will shoot the hell out of it!"

Above sound right to me!
 
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