Remington does not sell it and their return email states that the crimp halfway down the brass is to locate the bullet since there is no cannelure. They do sell Cowboy Brass through some outlets. The only brass I'm finding is standard brass.
I can't find 38 Special wadcutter brass
- Thread starter sar4937
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OP
Remington does not sell it and their return email states that the crimp halfway down the brass is to locate the bullet since there is no cannelure. They do sell Cowboy Brass through some outlets. The only brass I'm finding is standard brass.
scattershot
Member
I wasn't aware that there was a difference. After you fire the load, the crimp in the case will be gone, anyway. I always crimp in the bullet's crimping groove, if it has one. If not, you can just crimp over the front of the bullet.
NFrameFred
Member
There is no difference. The factory rounds used to be (still are ?) cannelured to help hold the long slug, but I know of no benefit or reason it would make a difference to a re-loader. Either a slight roll with the bullet seated flush or out from the case mouth ever so slightly is all that's required.
OP
http://smith-wessonforum.com/e...570103904/m/16410486 It has been mentioned a couple of times in posts regarding the Model 52.
NFrameFred
Member
Well, accuracy is indeed a cumulative thing, with any one part of the equation failing badly putting the results in jeopardy, but . . . the 38 wadcutter crimp argument strikes me personally as a "how many angels can dance on the head of a pin" minutia.
Anyone who has ever messed much with a S&W 52 will tell you it is one of the most unforgiving target pistols ever constructed. Capable of astounding accuracy, the slightest variance on the shooters part of the job can cause even a keyhole at 50 yards.
I worked with one for a couple of years and decided it would be just as much fun, less exasperating and cheaper to just sell the 52 and smash my thumb with a ball peen hammer, instead.
Anyone who has ever messed much with a S&W 52 will tell you it is one of the most unforgiving target pistols ever constructed. Capable of astounding accuracy, the slightest variance on the shooters part of the job can cause even a keyhole at 50 yards.
I worked with one for a couple of years and decided it would be just as much fun, less exasperating and cheaper to just sell the 52 and smash my thumb with a ball peen hammer, instead.
ChuckS1
US Veteran
It doesn't make a difference.
TSQUARED
Member
I have some old stock but I have also culled it from current range brass.
flash60601
US Veteran
The cannelure halfway down in the case was meant originally as a "stop" to keep the bullet from seating further into the case. It is not a "crimp" in the true sense of the word. Though there are cases which have the cannelure at different heights, it is mainly to prevent the bullet form being seated too deeply.
When using any revolver, there also should be enough crimp to at least keep the bullets, under the influence of recoil, from leaving the case by any amount, as a bullet that moves out of the case could lock up the firearm.
Brass with the cannelure is no different functionally, to any reloading process, than brass without.
Load 'em, don't toss 'em.
Flash
When using any revolver, there also should be enough crimp to at least keep the bullets, under the influence of recoil, from leaving the case by any amount, as a bullet that moves out of the case could lock up the firearm.
Brass with the cannelure is no different functionally, to any reloading process, than brass without.
Load 'em, don't toss 'em.
Flash
With "Wad-cutter" loads, I always taper crimped them.
OP
After purchasing a Lee Factory Crimp die I emailed them requesting they sell me a taper crimp insert. It's been 2 weeks and they have not gotten back to me. I did purchase 2 boxes of Win. 148g factory loaded wadcutter ammo, and it has a roll crimp over the wadcutter but also crimps the brass midway. I believe the taper crimp will work the brass less, and prevent setback a little better than just a roll crimp by itself.
