I have a big problem.

I have one that tends to do the same. It's a 20 gauge youth model and it will rust if you look at it with watery eyes. I bought it new for less than $200 about 15 years ago. I think it's a thinly applied matte blue. I'm considering Cerakote. It may cost more than I paid for the shotgun. But I'd spend even more replacing it with something else.
 
That's weird. Mine did too when I first got it, but then it stopped rusting. I use regular gun oils on it.
 
Unfortunately, Johnson's has discontinued their paste wax.
Today's substitute is Min-Wax paste wax, which may be even better.

An old trick from WWII for pistols was to slather on a thick coat of Cosmoline and bake the parts in an oven.
The waxy Cosmoline will melt into the Parkerized finish and seal the rough finish.
The same should work for a bead blasted blue finish.

The current paint type gun finishes sold by Brownell's are excellent do-it-yourself durable finishes.
Yeas ago before they were available, I sprayed on thick coats of Rustoleum oil based paint and baked the parts in an oven. This gave a surprisingly durable finish, more so then rattle can paints.
 
Maybe what you have to do to it will cost more than what it’s worth. Oil it often and shoot it some so you know it hasn’t rusted internally enough to make it not work.
 
Unfortunately, Johnson's has discontinued their paste wax.
Today's substitute is Min-Wax paste wax, which may be even better.
Interesting, I did not know that. I see Amazon is selling a one pound can of Minwax paste wax for around $15. It is probably very similar to JPW. I have a one pound can of JPW which is at least 40 years old, and about half of it is still in the can. Have been using it on guns for a long time. It does not take much. Back in my CAS days I used a Winchester Model 97 pump in 12 gauge. That gun was unusual in that it rusted so easily and in no time at all if it got wet. I kept it rubbed down with JPW as part of my cleaning procedure and that kept it rust free. I imagine a can of neutral shoe polish would also be just as suitable for gun rustproofing.
 
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I bought my 870 right before the company was sold to Freedom Group. Paid $325. I haven't had any rust issues. I have got far more in accessories for the gun that what I paid for it. Blackhawk CompStock for recoil reduction, Mesa tactical 6 shot side saddle, Remington Police metal trigger guard replaced the original. New metal extractor, and I just added Wilson Combat High viz Ghost Ring sight. Very capable shotgun. The one area that turned a slightly plum color is the band that holds the barrel extension on.
 
THe best rust inhibitor I know of Is Rig Universal Grease. Get some and clean off the rust. Then put a light coating of the Rig on it. If it still rusts after that, you have a poorly finished gun and I'd contact Remington - or whoever took them over. While they bought Remington out of bankruptcy and have no legal obligation to help you out, you can always ask - nothing to loose.

Try the Rig Universal Grease after a good cleaning.

Another idea is to wait for a gun buy back and sell it to your County or State. Don't know what they might pay in your area (if anything) but in some areas they pay up to $200 bucks. Put that towards an new SG!

You nailed it........RIG.........I use it on all my firearms.
 
I was thinking the same thing. If the existing finish is salvagable, the way to do it is neutralizing the acidity.

I should add that boiling rusted surface will turn the corrosion black, just as boiling after an application of rust blue. No need to spend time removing rust first. I agree that sealing in acid with wax or other products just delays the inevitable. Neutralize the finish and simply oil the surface.
 
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