I messed up my 442's finish-tried...

[Katy]

Originally posted by ifilef:
To strip or not to strip to the bare metal? That is the question...

"Whether 'tis nobler to... "
Oh-wrong thread!

There seems to be a divergence of opinion here, unless I am misunderstanding some of the posts.

So, what say you-before application of the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black, should one strip the faded finish to bare metal or merely apply it on top of that faded finish?

Merely apply it to the top of the faded finish.

 

[ifilef]

Katy-

I'm now clear on what to do, thanks to your posts.

But should I strip the circular faded blue area down to the bare aluminum to have a clean surface?

I'm joking!

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by ifilef:
I messed up my 442's cylinder screw area when I removed the screw to work on the gun and action some time ago. I'm doubly angered about this because I had the proper type screwdriver for removing the screw.

To paraphrase Jeff Cooper: "You are no more a gunsmith because you possess gunsmith screwdrivers than you are a musician because you own a guitar."

I am guessing, but bet that whatever "problem" you were fixing pales in comparison to the premanent damage you did to your revolver. That must be the case as you are not asking how to fix the underlying "problem" that you were originally "fixing."

I came to the conclusion decades ago that I should leave the revolver work to experts even though most of the time my hand did not slip, and that the best way to smooth an action is to shoot or dry fire it. Let this be a lesson to us all. If it really doesn't work, then it should go in for warranty repair rather than ruining the warranty.

 

[ifilef]

I was just trying to remedy a cosmetic problem. There's been no harm to the operation of the revolver, and no cause to send it in as it would not be covered by warranty. There may be permanent cosmetic damage, but I have a feeling it will be lessened sufficiently with the use of Aluminum Black as to put my mind at ease.

I will continue to work on my revolvers and unscrew these sideplate screws only when necessary - I'll just be a bit more careful next time.

 

[dkees]

Good Lord!! Are these posts going to be published in hardback? An old timer once asked, "are you going to use it or take it to the fair?"

This is a weapon for concealed carry as in being carried concealed. If it's concealed the chances of someone observing that relative small blemish are equally small.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by dkees:

This is a weapon for concealed carry as in being carried concealed. If it's concealed the chances of someone observing that relative small blemish are equally small.

Yep, if they are close enough to see it you are probably already dead by then....

 

[ifilef]

It doesn't bother me so much that others may notice it; what bothers me is that I, indeed, notice it, and it 'bugs' me.................so DON'T TELL ME HOW I SHOULD FEEL, OKAY?

 

[Dan Cash]

I'm sick and tired of seeing this ugly cosmetic defect as depicted in my last photo of the first post here.

My oh my; what will you do if your wife or lover gets a pimple or a wrinkle?

 

[C.S.63]

Good Luck on the touch up
The marks are character that adds to the weapon over time. They tend to remind us of how they happend and add to Knowledge as you learn from history and past mistakes and solutions.
Carl

 

[RDak]

I'd be very surprised if the Aluminum Black from Birchwood Casey doesn't do the trick.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by Dan Cash:

I'm sick and tired of seeing this ugly cosmetic defect as depicted in my last photo of the first post here.

My oh my; what will you do if your wife or lover gets a pimple or a wrinkle?

I don't have any control over my wife or lover getting a pimple or wrinkle, but I will certainly consider divorce or separation in that instance.

However, I'm even less tolerant of the gun because there I do have some control.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by RDak:
I'd be very surprised if the Aluminum Black from Birchwood Casey doesn't do the trick.

I'm scheduled to fly back into town by Tuesday, and I'll pick up delivery of the Aluminum Black from my mailing address at that time.

Will keep you fellas informed.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by C.S.:
Good Luck on the touch up
The marks are character that adds to the weapon over time. They tend to remind us of how they happend and add to Knowledge as you learn from history and past mistakes and solutions.
Carl

Forget character-I want the gun to look 'virginal'.

 

[Katy]

So how did it turn out ?

 

[ifilef]

It was starting to show a noticeable improvement, but the outermost fading from about 1:00 to 6:00 was still faded.

Then for an inspection and clean, I went into the internals, so all of this is moot now:

I'm OP in this one:

Hammer stud problem

 

[allglock]

Originally posted by ifilef:
It was starting to show a noticeable improvement, but the outermost fading from about 1:00 to 6:00 was still faded.

Then for an inspection and clean, I went into the internals, so all of this is moot now:

I'm OP in this one:

Hammer stud problem

Have you been pulling the trigger with the sideplate off, and the hammer spring installed? If so, thats a NO-NO!

 

[ifilef]

No, I went into the internals for a flush and clean only.

 

[ifilef]

Update: returned from out-of-town trip and finally sent my 442 off to S&W this date. Will keep you posted.

 

[ifilef]

Update: S&W has provided me with a new frame. Apparently they were kind enough to reinstall my old springs at my request (not verified, but upon inspecting the 442 at the FFL trigger pull was very nice and 'felt' like my old one).

Everything else remains the same, except I was told they no longer could reissue a frame with the same serial number, contrary to what occurred last time I sent the gun in to them a couple of years ago.

So mine now has a new serial number, and since that is the case, I had to receive it at a local California FFL and go through a whole new registration process (as told to me by S&W re California legal requirements), including payment of transfer fees to the FFL and DROS fees, and 10-day wait period (though we could probably get around that legally as it was a repair, but decided to treat it like a new gun to avoid more red tape).

Bottom line is that I'm out $85.00 in FFL fees, registration, etc., but I, for all intents and purposes, have a beautiful new frame with new hammer and trigger studs).

In the future, I'm not going to remove the sideplate to do anything to the gun. If there's a flush and clean to be done, I will have it done by my 'smith. The new frame with the installed lock will not be removed this time.

I figure the chances of me messing up the sideplate while unscrewing it outweighs any risk that retaining the lock entails.

I can't pick it up from the FFL until next week, and look forward to shooting with it and re-installing my CT grips at that time.

I'm very happy with the way I've been treated by S&W Customer Service.

I do, however, have a lingering doubt about the design/construction of the trigger and hammer studs in these aluminum Airweights, in contrast to the old steel frames, so I figure the less that is done to the internals and/or removal of the sideplate, the better chance the studs may last longer.

In any event, the sideplate flush with the internals retained the integrity of the action despite the hammer stud had broken. I did not have a catastrophic failure with the firearm, and only learned of the broken hammer stud upon inspection during a flush and clean.

 

[Mike_M]

I know this is an old thread that I am resurecting, but I have a question. I'm thinking of removing the lock cylinder and adding "the plug." Can I use Birch Casey Aluminum Black to touch up the "L" and the arrow on the left side of the frame next to the cylinder hole?