I messed up my 442's finish-tried...

[ifilef]

I messed up my 442's cylinder screw area when I removed the screw to work on the gun and action some time ago. I'm doubly angered about this because I had the proper type screwdriver for removing the screw.

Anyway, I've tried - Birchwood Casey Super Blue, BC Super Black Instant Touch-Up Pen, various pens, Sharpies, magic markers. Terrible. Any helpful suggestions for my mistakes? I would not recommend the Super Blue-thought it would help despite aluminum (alloy) frame. No discernible benefit-it apparently did not 'take' and was a waste of time.

The first two photos depict results from the Touch-Up pen only.

Last photo is present condition of gun after removal of various agents with denatured alcohol. The original motivation to repair this was removal of the cylinder screw resulting in scratches, etc. that kind of stood out like a sore thumb and bothered me. Look at the exposed shiny metal surrounding that screw (at about 3:00 to 5:00 position <span class="ev_code_RED">it can actually be described as a depression similar to a tooth cavity.</span> ).

But now it's even worse as there's a faded blued area surrounding the cylinder screw as well.

Is this a 'goner'? Are there any remedies besides bringing to a GS for re-blueing?

 

[allglock]

Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black should work. I think they should give a bottle away with every 442 sold. I think it is amazing!

 

[ifilef]

allglock--

Never heard of it. But this may be a remedy. Unfortunately, it appears they sell this by the gallon at over $120.00/gal.?

Later: Kittery Trading Post apparently has a small 3oz. bottle, identical to my small-bottled Super Blue, of 'BC Aluminium Black'. Is this the same as 'Aluma Black'?

And do you think it worth a try given the condition of my gun as depicted in the third photo, above?

Thanks!

 

[allglock]

That stuff has saved my life many times! It works!


http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/...oducts/15125_lrg.jpg

 

[ifilef]

Thanks! Okay, I'll give it a 'go'. I can get some on auction on ebay or at Brownell's. It's got to work better than the True Blue, which apparently isn't helpful on aluminum or aluminum alloy frames.

I realize this is for touch-up and it will hopefully work better than the BC Touchup Black Pen.

Figure it's worth a try before going to the gunsmith-I canceled tonight's trip to the range in light of your recent post.

I don't expect it to make the gun look new, but it would be nice if it were minimally noticeable.

Where should it be applied-IOW, should I apply it to just the area around the screw or the entire lower portion of the frame and over the engraving of "Airweight" & "SPFLD MA" etc. as well? If so, will the engraving reappear, which is desired in this instance?

 

[Spotteddog]

Of course the fastener will take the cold "bluing", but the aluminum will need to be treated as above described. Also the screw will need to be removed and ABSOLUTELY grease/oil/silicone free in order for the blue to take. So degrease with alcohol or brake cleaner let dry thoroughly pre retrying it. Also, cold blue may take 4 or 5 applications in order to get as deep a shade as you'd like, but it will never match perfectly.
HINT-The warmer the fastener is, the heavier the blue will take on each pass. Warm it with a hair dryer or in the oven @ 200 degree's on a piece of new aluminum foil, then dip it. Don't forget your tweezers!

 

[bountyhunter]

Use aliminum black ONLY on the bare alum areas, never on a surface that still has black finish. To get it to take well, it has to be perfectly clean so strip it with acetone. you may have to carefully clean the bare metal with fine sandpaper and then black it immediately. The metal tends to oxidize quickly especially if you touch it or let any oil hit it.

Another trick I learned: put a little of the bluing liquid in a plastic cap and warm it in the microwave and apply it with a Q-Tip (rub it in until it gets fully black, then stop). Wait a minute and gently rinse with cold water on the blackened spot. After a few minutes, gently rub oil on it and let it cure overnight.

Warming the solution makes it take a little better.

 

[ifilef]

Well, I ordered the Aluminum Black and would greatly appreciate specific instructions on how to remedy the mess I created as depicted in the last photograph in my original post.

Had no idea I would mess this up so badly so that not only is the screw area a problem but now there's that cloudy ring surrounding it. Yech!

I apologize but I'm somewhat confused as to do this step by step.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
Use aliminum black ONLY on the bare alum areas, never on a surface that still has black finish. To get it to take well, it has to be perfectly clean so strip it with acetone. you may have to carefully clean the bare metal with fine sandpaper and then black it immediately. The metal tends to oxidize quickly especially if you touch it or let any oil hit it.
...

...

So, the suggestion is that I strip the entire lower frame area with acetone to remove all black and then redo it?

Or should I strip the entire circular area surrounding the screw only?

 

[Spotteddog]

ONLY the frame area around the screw hole. That'll be where the alumablack will be applied AFTER removal of the fastener your going to need to re-blue.
So
Frame- is Aluminum
Screw- is Steel
Each material has it's own specific requirements for re-finishing. And the two different chemicals must NOT be allowed to contact one another during any part of the refinishing process.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
ONLY the frame area around the screw hole. That'll be where the alumablack will be applied AFTER removal of the fastener your going to need to re-blue.

Thanks, and sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by the word 'fastener' or how you are using it in this context, or what you mean in sentence above.

 

[Spotteddog]

Fastener = the screw you want to refinish.
Also, if you haven't experienced it yet, removal of that particular screw (the one with the damaged finish) also allows the cylinder and yoke assembly to be removed from the frame of the gun.

 

[ifilef]

Thanks, Spotteddog. Yes, I'm familiar with that plunger type sideplate screw and do my own action jobs on my revolvers-my knowledge is solely based on the Miculek videos.

Anyway, okay, tell me if I have this correct-

1. remove the screw;
2. strip the faded circular area surrounding the screw location to bare metal;
3. apply Aluminum Black as directed to that area;
4. totally degrease and then treat the sideplade screw with Super Blue as it is steel;
5. Get disgusted with the foregoing when I see the final result, see my gunsmith with over 40 years of experience, and spend $100-$200 or more and let him handle it.

 

[Pisgah]

My option -- notice the damage, utter a few choice words, wipe it down, put it back in my pocket, forget about it. Instead, worry about the new hammer I bought that now shows signs of having driven a few nails...

 

[ifilef]

Pisgah-

I've seen many of your posts in the past and have found them to be very knowledgable and most helpful.

But I can't 'let go' of this, as I entirely love this gun and even more so with the CT grips.

I'm sick and tired of seeing this ugly cosmetic defect as depicted in my last photo of the first post here. For me, it destroys the esthetics of this fine firearm.

Do you believe that if I tinker with it further with the Aluminum Black process, etc. that I will further worsen its condition?

 

[tomcatt51]

You could always send it to S&W and have it refinished. Would look like new again.

 

[ifilef]

How much would be the cost for such work, tomcatt51?

 

[allglock]

Originally posted by ifilef:
How much would be the cost for such work, tomcatt51?

Just get the aluminum black. It will work. That gun looks like its been around anyway. Why waste the $$ on a refinish?

 

[ifilef]

allglock-

The purpose of this thread is to avoid a factory refinish.

I have indeed ordered the Aluminum Black, but have to leave town. In about two weeks upon my return I'll try it and will give an update with pics.

Thanks for your comments, and I look forward to resolving this matter inexpensively. It doesn't have to be like a new gun with the Aluminum Black, but I wouldn't complain if that were the case...

I do feel, though, that it might be difficult to obtain the shade of black required. I guess one would use trial and error.

Do you recommend progressively adding coats without applying a damp cloth in between applications or wipe it down with a water-soaked paper towel or cloth, whatever, after each coat applied?

 

[n4zov]

This probably is not what you want to hear, but a lot of "touch-up" jobs end up looking worse than the problem they are intended to correct! I would just continue using the gun, but if it bothers you enough, sending it back to the factory is the only complete solution. You mentioned having used the correct screwdriver, but at some point somebody did not! The screw slot has been widened by an poorly fitting blade.

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by ifilef:
How much would be the cost for such work, tomcatt51?

I don't know how much but if you call and ask they'll give you an idea. I have to agree with n4zov, you start out trying to fix a little blemish and end up with a big one. Been there. Sometimes just blackening the area with a sharpy once in a while is the best route.

 

[Pinger4186]

If you carry the gun every day, you'll end up wearing off the finish worse than that.

After a few years, when the finish is worn bad enough, send it in to have it refinished.

 

[Katy]

Originally posted by ifilef:

Do you recommend progressively adding coats without applying a damp cloth in between applications or wipe it down with a water-soaked paper towel or cloth, whatever, after each coat applied?

1). Remove the screw.
2). Take a q-tip and dip it in the Aluminum black. Touch the q-tip to the blemished spot.
Just like what touch up bluing does to steel, aluminum black will turn bare aluminum to black.
3). Blot off any excess fluid and apply a lite coat of oil.

 

[Spotteddog]

Don't worry ifilef!
My 342PD has the same black finish, and looks AWFUL after 8+ years of being carried daily. If your right handed, you can get by, by saying "that's the spot my index finger rests on". In the grand theme of things, it's just a zit on Heidi Klum?

 

[ifilef]

A zit on Heidi Klum spoils her image. It no longer makes her Heidi Klum, but makes her a more human Heidi Klum.

I appreciate y'all trying to make me feel better, but I'm looking for inexpensive solutions, if any, and not solace.

.

I can be more forgiving of Heidi Klum with a zit than my 442 with an ugly blemish. LOL.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
Don't worry ifilef!
My 342PD has the same black finish, and looks AWFUL after 8+ years of being carried daily. If your right handed, you can get by, by saying "that's the spot my index finger rests on". In the grand theme of things, it's just a zit on Heidi Klum?

I 'd take overall AWFUL to a cosmetic ugly defect that immediately draws the eye to it and detracts from the overall beautiful sterling appearance, at least with this gun.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by Katy:

Originally posted by ifilef:

Do you recommend progressively adding coats without applying a damp cloth in between applications or wipe it down with a water-soaked paper towel or cloth, whatever, after each coat applied?

1). Remove the screw.
2). Take a q-tip and dip it in the Aluminum black. Touch the q-tip to the blemished spot.
Just like what touch up bluing does to steel, aluminum black will turn bare aluminum to black.
3). Blot off any excess fluid and apply a lite coat of oil.

Okay, so do strip to the bare aluminum, only apply one coat, blot off excess, apply a lite coat of oil, and then I'm done.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by allglock:

Originally posted by ifilef:
How much would be the cost for such work, tomcatt51?

Just get the aluminum black. It will work. That gun looks like its been around anyway. Why waste the $$ on a refinish?

Photos can be deceiving, e.g, harsh lighting, etc. can make a gun look worse, there's some excess oil on the frame. The gun's actually LIKE NEW or at the least in excellent cosmetic condition excepting some slight barrel wear near the crown and that cylinder screw area.

I'd really feel kind of foolish going to the expense of a refinish, though, at this time. Gun is less than a year old and seldom carried in anything other than a Nemesis.

Prior to my making the gun worse, as depicted in the circular faded area, I did get by using a Sharpie on occasion to cover the cavity, etc. Now, something has to be done short of a refinish.

 

[ifilef]

I spoke to S&W this morning and was given a ballpark of $150.00 to refinish, including return shipping. That excludes my shipping it to them, and that would cost me an additional $50.00, at the least, so we're talking $200.00 total, maybe more. At this time, this is not acceptable to me.

If the Aluminum Black does not sufficiently (perfection not required) remedy the situation for me, I'll run it by my gunsmith, who is always reasonable. I'm just trying to eliminate the eye-catching quality of the defect. If I can 'cover it up' so that it wouldn't be noticeable, except upon close inspection with a discerning eye, that would suffice.

It should be fun to do this and post pics of the results. Whatever the outcome it may be helpful to others in deciding whether to DIY, or not, with the Aluminum Black. Of course, results may differ, depending upon the user and his ability, so YMMV.

 

[ifilef]

Originally posted by n4zov:
This probably is not what you want to hear, but a lot of "touch-up" jobs end up looking worse than the problem they are intended to correct! I would just continue using the gun, but if it bothers you enough, sending it back to the factory is the only complete solution. You mentioned having used the correct screwdriver, but at some point somebody did not! The screw slot has been widened by an poorly fitting blade.

I'm the only owner of the firearm. It was a replacement frame they sent me as the original was defective-trigger stud broke loose after shooting it numerous dry-fires and about 300 rounds, and I never would've noticed it (absent a failure) had I not gone into the original frame during a clean and flush, as the sideplate had kept it in place.

With this replacement frame I had removed the cylinder screw perhaps half a dozen times, and I always used a Grace #4 or #5 screwdriver. It must've slipped a number of times while removing or attaching the screw; I don't know how that 'cavity' developed.

I've since learned the cylinder screw can be backed-out somewhat and one can still remove the cylinder and yoke while the screw remains in the frame.

All I know is that I had to go into the action anyway as this new one from the factory had problems cycling the action new out of the box. I removed the sideplate and adjusted parts more flush, also removed the 'flag' on the internal lock. Later, I did some polishing of the internals and the rebound slide; it's been totally reliable with the stock mainspring and a Wolff 14# rebound spring with well over 1000 rounds through it.