I need some knife sharpening help...

I have an old 3 stone set of Smiths that I have used for years (soft Arkansas, hard Arkansas, and Wa****a) and it has served me well. I have many other sharpening devices including steels and a ceramic rod I use for touchups. I also have a few various grit diamond sharpeners. If the knifes are real dull I go with a coarser grit diamond to reset the edge, them move to the Smiths.

Edit: so I should have written WaDoDoa????:D:D:D
 
Use a SMOOTH Steel First

I can not believe that no one had mentioned the suggestion:

Use a SMOOTH Steel First.

After wifey uses knife against plate the edge is more likely rolled over than worn off.

Using a smooth steel can straighten out many a bent/rolled edge without removing valuable/expensive metal.

Removing metal is a last resort for me.

I use and cherish the smooth steel rod that my grandparents had long long ago.

Years ago I met an OLD Italian gentleman who kept the edge on his scythe by tap tap tapping the blade
with a small hammer that was always in his pocket when using the scythe. When taking a break
he would check the edge and pull out his hammer.

He told of learning this method at an early age "in the Old Country". Never saw anyone else using this method.

Bekeart
 
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I have a 3 stone/wooden triangle set up with a hardwood base that I got from Orvis at least 30 years ago. I see they still offer it but it is a mind-blowing $89.00 now. I pull it out around Christmas time and sharpen everything in sight. It works like a champ but it's tedious and a lot like manual labor. They all last 'til the following year with a touch-up or two . I see Amazon has couple of similar ones in that (more realistic) 40 buck range.

I also keep a plastic-handled sharpener with 2 "V" stones in the kitchen for those quick touch ups. It runs about $20 (at Amazon as well). It does a great job and will easily bring a blade back from "car bumper dull" with a few swipes.

I might suggest one of those 20 buck plastic twin "V" stone units or similar and see how it works for you. If you feel you need to go hardcore afterwards, I'm sure you'll still find plenty of use for the the other one.
 
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Paladin suggested the Lansky System, and I used that
on my K-bar from WW2. Otherwise, I use a medium Arkansas
stone for dressing kitchen knives. Steak knives get that stone too,
since I can't eat off the cutting board. Looks like I should be
trying the sharpening steel on the steak knives. I touch them
up before every meal.
Medium and fine Wa****a for my Buck 110. Haven't done
anything with the 6042 yet. (#9 is my 2nd Rule, Sean Connery
said it best!)
TACC1
 
I've retired my various grit/hardness stones in favor of the Lansky system, long since, for sharpening knives. Along with the stones and "wands" or whatever they're called, I have a Lansky apparatus that C-clamps to the edge of a kitchen counter, etc., clamps the knife blade safely and securely, and holds all the components in proper relationship, making short and precise work of touching up, or even restoring an abused edge. This isn't the right tool for dealing with heavier cutting tools such as machetes or axes, but is, in my experience, the ideal knife sharpening system.
 
Been sharpening knives on stones for close to 50 years. Rough stone to get rid of the burrs,nick and other damage. Then progressively finer stones to put a shaving edge on it. I had this one old foreman who used to pay his taxes in quarterly installments bring in the same old cheap knives year after year. Think the blades must have been made out of tin cans. My wife was the same was. Chucked all the junk and bought a set of carving,and steak knives. Heavy steel not too hard and will take and hold a good edge. Last year at a gunshow this guy was selling these short knife steels held together with some heavy duty plastic. So now she can sharpen her own knives. Frank
 
There are two important things when sharpening a knife.

1. Remove material up to the end of the edge.

You must remove enough material from the edge so that you can feel a curl has formed on the other side. You can use your nail to feel for the curl. When one side is done, do the other.

If you have trouble here, mark the whole length of the edge with a black marker pen so you can use a magnifying glass to see if you have reach the tip of edge.

I have found a coarse diamond stone to be the best tool here. This can be done totally freehand, there is no magic. Use force to remove material faster.

2. Remove the curl you formed in the previous step.

This is the most delicate part. You have to carefully remove the curl and not spoil the edge in the process.

I use a fine diamond stone for this, with a light touch, alternating from side to side. Then I give the final finish to the edge on a ceramic kitchen sharpener where I draw the edge between two rollers. I have not learned to consistently final finish an edge freehand, yet, that is why I resort to the kitchen sharpener.

This is what my sharpening tools look like.

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The Swedish diamond sharpener has two sides, coarse and fine.
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These tools are all I need to keep our kitchen knives, my hunting, pocket and utility knives sharp. Oh, sometimes when a knife's edge is totally ruined, sometimes even on a new knife from a factory, I use an even coarser sharpener to straighten the edge angle, but this is fortunately rare.
 
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I have quite a few sharpening stones, but I bought a diamond hone for about $35 and I prefer it over the stones. All I do in the kitchen it wet it under the faucet and a quick hone. The softer the stone the quicker the cut. Mine is made by Smith's.
th


I highly recomend this Smith's diamond sharpener. Amazon has it for $13.75 w/ free shipping ! Amazon.com: Smith's DCS4 4-Inch FINE & COARSE Diamond Combo Sharpening Stones: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31K613TDTKL.@@AMEPARAM@@31K613TDTKL I think I will order a couple more! It is coarse on one side and fine on the other. It is absolutely flat and it stays that way. It is portable it pulls apart and fits into it's own handle which is nice. It can easily handle all your sharpening needs. I use mine all the time. Stop using the steel on your knifes it will ruin them. You end up with a wavy edge eventually.

Then start saving your money for the BIG Smith's stone, Amazon.com: Smith's DBSC115 11-1/2-Inch COARSE Diamond Bench Stone w/Micro Tool Sharpening Pad: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41X7G854V9L.@@AMEPARAM@@41X7G854V9L you won't regret it.. ED
 
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The DMT system is also very good and it comes with an aligner for precise setting of the angle.Mine came with three stones plus a diamond rod for serrated blades.
Regards, Ray
 
bought a Lansky 5 stone set about 25 years ago-still works :rolleyes:
Not too sexy doesn't have the new fangled diamond stones-smelly, oily-but it still works like a champ.
 
smelly, oily-but it still works like a champ.

Yeah, what's up with that old sharpening oil? It's the worst smellin', odiferous stuff known to man. Once it's absorbed into the stones and ferments a few years, it's there forever and flat out eye-waterin', nasty! :eek:

It's a far cry from the aromatic euphoria provided by a good whiff off the ol' #9 jar, that's for dang sure.:D
 
bought a Lansky 5 stone set about 25 years ago-still works :rolleyes:
Not too sexy doesn't have the new fangled diamond stones-smelly, oily-but it still works like a champ.
I though lawyers don't need knives, you cut with your tongue. But I probably got you mixed up with mother-in-laws. My bad. :p
 
Spyderco sharpener.....get the set that includes both the course and fine ceramic sharpeners. I follow with a homemade strop impregnated with chromium oxide. Use a hair dryer to infuse it into the leather.
 
There are some kits you can buy that hold round steel rods and ceramic rods. They fit into the holder at certain angles. You use the steel ones first then the ceramic. They work really well. I would strongly advise against using any kind of motorized kitchen sharpener. They use a grinding stone or steel. They will sharpen alright but will remove too much material.
 
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