I picked up this HE today.LATEST UPDATE:Range Trip

[Rickkster]

I have wanted a S&W Hand Ejector in .32-20 for a shooter since I have been forming brass from .32-20 cases for my 1895 Russian Nagant the past year. The Nagant seems to have an 18# single action trigger pull and maybe a 25# double action pull! Maybe the pull is lower; but it pegs my trigger pull gauge and it really does feel that heavy ;-)

Anyway, I couldn't find a Hand Ejector locally, so I got one off an auction site. After picking it up from my dealer this morning, I gave it a quick light cleaning and took some pictures. This week it will get a much more detailed cleaning. The bore is in good shape and overall the condition is what I would expect a shooter to be. I am happy with it. In a couple of weeks, I'll see how it does at the range.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Muley Gil]

Congrats. I've owned at least one .32-20 handgun or rifle since the mid '70s.

Enjoy.

 

[Big Fred]

You are going to love the 32-20. I have a few 32-20's. They are a lot of fun to shoot. Keep the loads on the lighter side. They are very accurate.

 

[Rickkster]

Thanks for the replies. For the loads, I am looking at Trail Boss and Unique. Researching loads it looks like 2.3 - 2.4 grains of Trail Boss and 3.5 - 4.0 grains of Unique are mentioned a lot. I will start low and work up, but not past the 2.4 of TB and 4.0 of Unique.

If I am understanding my copy of SCSW 3rd Edition, this is probably a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model or 1905, 4th Change? Not sure of the year though, but there are no logo's on either side and no "Made in USA". Would that indicate First World War years?

Thanks again,

Rick

 

[DCWilson]

A great score. You are going to love that revolver. I consider the .32-20 one of the great rounds in American firearms history.

That one probably shipped slightly before American involvement in WWI, so it is almost a century old. There is an outside chance it got locked in inventory during the war and didn't ship until 1919, but that's not much of a difference.

 

[DWalt]

From the SN, according to Blue Book, yours is a model 1905, first change, made 1906-1909, somewhat before WWI.

I got my .32-20 reloading dies last week and loaded up about 100 rounds last night using Missouri Bullet Company's 100 grain lead cowboy bullets (0.312") and 3.5 grains of Bullseye. Back when I was doing CAS, one of my revolvers was a Ruger Blackhawk in .30 Carbine, and I used the same load and components for it with success. As the .32-20 and .30 Carbine cases are pretty much the same size, I am expecting the same good performance in my Colt OP that I got from the Ruger. But I won't be able to try them for at least two weeks. Watch the cartridge OAL very closely when loading for a revolver.
-------------
Some .32-20 revolver maximum loads given in a 1950s Lyman reloading manual. Some of the powders shown no longer exist, but Bullseye and Unique still do. Back then, many still shot revolvers made in the 19th century black powder days, so these should be safe, if not light, loads for more modern revolvers. Bullseye is first, Unique second.


90 grain cast 3.6; 5.8
105 grain cast 3.4; 5.5
115 grain cast 3.1; 4.5
80 grain jacketed 4.2; 5.9
115 grain jacketed 3.1; 4.5

Listen to this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh5zTCdNH_0

 

[Old Corp]

Looks like a great old shooter in .32-20.
I wanted one also, but had a hard time finding a S&W that was in decent shape or at a good price.
A friend sold me a near-perfect Colt Police Positive Special 5" .32-20 some months back for $150.
Not exactly what I wanted but the gun looked new. Have not gotten around to shooting it yet, but hope to soon.

 

[Hondo44]

Great find. Now I know the date of your gun has been pegged pretty close above. Based on the gold plated medallions in the stocks, it was definitely produced between c.1910 and 1920 if you have a matching serial # on the backside of the right grip. The significance of this is that it was produced before heat treated cylinders on that model which was c. 1920. Hence the importance of safe loads as you understand.

One suggestion however; I would avoid the use of Bullseye because the loads are so volumetrically small that it's too easy to double charge and not detect it in this tall dark skinny cases. Bullseye is such a fast burning powder that the results never make for a happy day at the range!

 

[Muley Gil]

Looks like a great old shooter in .32-20.
I wanted one also, but had a hard time finding a S&W that was in decent shape or at a good price.
A friend sold me a near-perfect Colt Police Positive Special 5" .32-20 some months back for $150.
Not exactly what I wanted but the gun looked new. Have not gotten around to shooting it yet, but hope to soon.

I have had three PPSs in .32-20. All of them shot well.

I kept this one for a truck gun. Looks really, really bad, but the bore & chambers are in great shape.

 

[Hondo44]

I have had three PPSs in .32-20. All of them shot well.

I kept this one for a truck gun. Looks really, really bad, but the bore & chambers are in great shape.

That's a cool old war horse. Just needs a little Mother's or Flitz polish on it (except where original blue still shows) to make it proud.

 

[DWalt]

"I would avoid the use of Bullseye because the loads are so volumetrically small that it's too easy to double charge and not detect it in this tall dark skinny cases."

That's not a consideration unique to the .32-20 or Bullseye. I load light charges of propellants in many other calibers, both rifle and pistol. What I always do is to charge 50 empty cases in a loading block using my Lyman powder measure. Before inserting and seating bullets, I use a small flashlight to look into each and every charged case first, no matter what caliber, to determine if a double charge (or no charge) condition exists.

 

[Hondo44]

"I would avoid the use of Bullseye because the loads are so volumetrically small that it's too easy to double charge and not detect it in this tall dark skinny cases."

That's not a consideration unique to the .32-20 or Bullseye. I load light charges of propellants in many other calibers, both rifle and pistol. What I always do is to charge 50 empty cases in a loading block using my Lyman powder measure. Before inserting and seating bullets, I use a small flashlight to look into each and every charged case first, no matter what caliber, to determine if a double charge (or no charge) condition exists.

Thata' boy. I wouldn't do it any other way either. No it's not unique to 32-20, just seeing in the dark skinny cases (like any tall skinny cases).

But catastrophic results of a double charge with Bullseye (or any other fast burning/low volume powders) are much more unique to them. So what I was saying is; not using Bullseye gives one an extra edge if a double does get by. A double with any powder is to be avoided with all preventative measures as possible, of course. But 'stuff' happens and other powders don't usually send parts of your gun down range.

That's just why I don't use Bullseye at all.

 

[Rickkster]

Again, thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions! Believe me, I will keep any handloads conservative and start low and work up to that point. I will take it easy on this Hand Ejector like my two grown sons take it easy on me when we hunt, hike, bike, etc. They consider my age and condition ;-)

Also, I tried to take a couple pictures of the inside of the right grip. With flash and without and I really can't see and S/N in pencil. The grips are pretty dark on that side. If I stare at it long enough, I can convince myself that just maybe I see something, but that is probably just a hallucination.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Muley Gil]

Looks like something is still there.

Don't worry about it. The style of service grip is correct for that revolver and the fit is good. That would be close enough for me!

 

[STCM(SW)]

In the 32-20 I load 2.7 gr of Trail Boss with a 113 gr FNLGC.
No chance of a double load with TB, too bulky.

 

[Hondo44]

Looks like something is still there.

Don't worry about it. The style of service grip is correct for that revolver and the fit is good. That would be close enough for me!

What he said! I think they are righteous as well. The wear matches the vintage is correct.

 

[Rickkster]

Nothing like a warm CLP bath in the afternoon...

I started to do more serious cleaning this afternoon. Attached are a couple of pics for your viewing pleasure ;-) I will let the parts soak in the CLP for a couple of days. Then starts the towels rub down. Even though I can't see a S/N on the right grip, that is ok with me. The grips aren't in horrible shape, and based on what everyone that has commented on them said, they are correct for this gun.

Thanks again everyone!

Cheers,

Rick

 

[handejector]

Try sunlight for the grip number. Sometimes, it lights the graphite up.


Take earmuffs! They DO be loud!


All my life down south, the old saying was "a 32/20 'll shoot clear thew a man."
I dunno- never saw anybody shot with one, but I wouldn't doubt it!

 

[mbliss57]

Anyone ever take one of these older cylinders and heat treat it to the newer specs? If its just a shooter, it won't hurt anything. Except burn off the blue or nickel and a bunch of dirt. We do heat treating at our place (work) all the time. Just need a time, temp and atmosphere profile.
Mike

 

[Hondo44]

I doubt it. Colletors and those who shoot these old heirlooms aren't concerned about pushing the envelope. An then cylinders in the heat treating period can usually be found.