I think I fixed my 1911...

sipowicz

sipowicz

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Ever since I owned my Kimber TLE 2, I have had some FTFs and FTEs. The pic is one of the most common I encountered.

IMG_0820.jpg


My dept. practice ammo is Winchester Winclean and I heard it's not very good ammo and that lots of guns have problems with it...but today, I tried some duty ammo in it...Winchester Ranger Ts. Same problem. I called Kimber and was told I could ship the gun to them but it would be on my dime. Then I searched around a 1911 forum and found it might be the extractor...was steered to a youtube video on how to take it out of a 1911....(I'm not very handy btw). A few minutes later, I had the extractor out and cleaned it (lots of gunk) as well as the channel. Put it back to gether and it seems to be running much better....if it still does it in the future, I might try a lighter recoil spring...(stock is 16 so maybe 14)...we shall see...)
 
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Howdy Sip.
When it does eject, how far away does the empty brass go? 6-8 ft is a good distance.

I wouldn't go any lighter than 16# recoil spring if you are shooting factory ammo. That should be plenty light enough.

One other thing. Do you have problems with each magazine, or is there just one that is problematic? Number your mags, and check it out. Most FTF / FTE problems are magazine related.

I am going to assume that you have lubed the slide rails. A dry slide will cause what you are experiencing as well.


WG840
 
Wheelgunner840 said:
Howdy Sip.
When it does eject, how far away does the empty brass go? 6-8 ft is a good distance.

I wouldn't go any lighter than 16# recoil spring if you are shooting factory ammo. That should be plenty light enough.

One other thing. Do you have problems with each magazine, or is there just one that is problematic? Number your mags, and check it out. Most FTF / FTE problems are magazine related.

I am going to assume that you have lubed the slide rails. A dry slide will cause what you are experiencing as well.


WG840
Click to expand...

Sip sounds like you might have it fixed. WG840 is giving you some good advice. I might just add that if the gun isn't broken in good I would run the slide really wet. Don
 
OMG! Gals, look! Sip is hydroplaning. Noooo just experimenting. My BAd?
 
I would certainly expect to have to replace magazines as has been mentioned....MOST 1911 feeding problems can be tracked to the magazine, which is part of the controlled feed system, not just a bullet holder for the next round...
 
Could be one of three problems now that you have fixed the extractor.

Ejector broke off.
Too light recoil spring or its worn out.
Magazine springs.

Check all three. Wolff Springs can be bought online.

Take the slide off and check the ejector.

If the recoil spring is too light or worn out, the gun will cycle too fast.
 
Fishslayer said:
If that pictured jam is the last round definitely a weak mag spring.

If you really want to getinto that extractor...

Extractor Tuning Tips
Click to expand...

There is a cool Extractor Tuning Tool as well

Kanewpadle said:
Could be one of three problems now that you have fixed the extractor.

Ejector broke off.
Too light recoil spring or its worn out.
Magazine springs.

Check all three. Wolff Springs can be bought online.

Take the slide off and check the ejector.

If the recoil spring is too light or worn out, the gun will cycle too fast.
Click to expand...

Overall timing on the 1911 is often over looked yet it's so important.:)
 
Sip: I have a slightly different take on your FTE problem. I was a 1911 Gunsmith for a long time. This is generally a timing problem compounded by possible extractor, ejector and recoil spring problems. IMHO, the recoil spring is too strong for that particular ammo. The ejector nose is not long enough. And the extractor is holding the rim of the cartridge too tightly. I think that the magazine spring is OK. That extractor/ejector combo should have that expended brass out of the breech before any jamb like that can happen.

I would attempt a cure in this order; examine the ejector and see if it compares to others in the same model handgun. If not change it out.

You have cleaned the extractor now hang a fired brass under it in the same position it would be as when extracted from the chamber. If it has no 'wiggle' whatsoever, it is too tight. Give it just a little more clearance using a jewelers file.

Change the recoil spring out to a known lighter spring by about 2 lbs.

Obviously, you should fire a few rounds after each one of these steps to see if you have cured the problem. When it is 'fixed' stop. ....... Big Cholla
 
Thanks guys....I did check it with different mags...same problem...and it was well lubed...so I will try Bi Cholla's fix and go to a lighter spring and check out the extractor wiggle...thanks gain...:)
 
27145 said:
Try not to shoot so limp wristed, just sayin'
Click to expand...

Give him a break... At least he didn't put the pink grip panels on (at least not for the picture).
The man lives in Hollywood - Some things just can't be helped.
:p

PS. I'd get a Spring Pack from Wolff and start with the stock weight and work from there.
 
I'm very confused here. Sip, I found no humor, sarcasm, nor quick wit in your post. Please fix the problem soon.
 
I like to tinker with things myself. Still... Getting a troublesome 1911 to work can at times involve what amounts to a special sort of voodoo. If the gun is to be anything other than something to take out to the range every now and again, I would have at least an armorer - and preferably an actual gunsmith - take a look at it. Peace of mind and all that (were it a piece of mine...)
 
DeadAye said:
The man lives in Hollywood - Some things just can't be helped.
:p
Click to expand...

Oh... that's a little mean. :D But, hey, he did the right thing.

If the gun runs fine after cleaning, leave it alone. If you have to change the recoil spring in that gun, get a new 16# spring and replace the old one. It shouldn't take a lighter spring to make that gun work with standard pressure, duty .45 loads. If it has a shok-buff or similar gizmo, take it out and throw it as far as possible. I have seen those things screw up the function of more otherwise-OK 1911s than anything I can think of, except junk surplus magazines.
 
No shock buff Deadaye...and I will check the recoil spring next time I shoot it...Cholla told me to check the ejection and see if the shell ejects 5-10 feet behind me...if not, I will change out the spring to another new 16 and grab a 14 just in case the ammo is too weak.....it is 7 years old but I don't think it has more than a 1000 rounds thru it...:)
 
My wife would love it if my 1911 tossed the cases 5-10 feet. My light target loads and her less than powerful grip tend to try to put the hot brass right down the front of her shirt!:eek:
 
I actually had an 18.5 spring in the gun....so I put back the 16 that I found. Still having some problems though...mainly like this...mostly on the last round, and sometimes second to last...kept loading mags up with 3 and it would continue....still, could be crapy ammo...it's also has a very flat nose so maybe it's not feeding right.....:(

IMG_0823.jpg
 
I wouldn't think the shape of that bullet would cause any trouble. Have you tried other mags? (I am wondering if the mag you are using might have been damaged without you realizing it.)
 
Recoil spring kit

This will save you a lot of headaches.

If you have ruled out magazine springs (used a new and or different magazine) and the ejector (not extractor) is pinned in solid and not moving, try the different weigh springs in this kit.

You do not need the rubber buffer things (JMB did not design the gun with those;))

Wilson Combat Spring Caddy 1911 Government - MidwayUSA
 
I tried different mags and it still did it..no biggie anyway...I think I may trade it in for another gun at my LGS..I will be taking a bit less than a PPT but I wouldn't PPT it knowing a gun doesn't run right. I'm sure with the right ammo and a little tweaking, it could be made to run right...I've been hankering for a P220 anyway...:)
 
Dave, it also did it with our duty Ranger T ammo as you can see in the first pic...To be honest...I'm not a big fan of the stippling either...really chews up my hands...I could buy some gloves, but buying a new gun is more fun...
 
I had a 1990's springfield armory 1911a1 series 90 in 45acp in black park in the safe since 1990. Its a NM with the tighter slide and larger sights. Since 1990 she would jam one round per mag. I would take it out after years of sitting in the safe it would jam and away it went into the blackhole in the safe for many years again. Previous to this I had a new 70's colt 1911 and an 80's colt that gave me jamming problems too there long gone but this SA in black park is a looker.

Now I was completely disgusted with the 1911's and was almost ready to give up on them when i found a used norinco 1911 for $300. I've only heard great things about the norinco's. The first trip to the range WOW what a great pistol the 1911 really is. It took a chinese 1911 to show me how good they really are. I forgot completely about the SA 1911 in the safe and started enjoying the norinco even more. Now i know what all the 1911 hype is all about.

I've changed out barrels before in 98k mausers and dealt with headspace so i know a little with rifles.

I wanted to tweek my norinco and make a few changes to make it better. I purchased the Jerry K 1911 45acp armorers video and his 1911 shop manual. I read and watched them over and over. Being a class A machine builder/erector and a leadtech for otis elevator engineering world headquarters i worked in the test lab. Being an ex auto/jeep/light truck mechanic I pretty much know my way around anything thats mechanical. I figured how hard can it be to work on the 1911.

I ordered anew G.I. 1911 barrel in 45acp from sportsmans guide for just $59 and a full length guide rod kit with the #18 recoil spring for $9 on sale. I then ordered a national match barrel bushing too from CDNN investments for $9 too.

The barrel bushing in my norinco rattled in the slide it was so loose. I fitted the NM bushing to my norc slide first. Then i fitted the new barrel to the bushing and slide. I fitted it so there was no barrel spring when it was in full battery and when it was lowered to load the next round. I had no barrel spring at all and i had 100% lock up in full battery. I checked the engagement of the lugs and she was in spec. I lubed it all with moly and took her to the range to test fire it. I found with using wolf 45acp ball ammo she has less over travel, no wasted time in cycling so it cycles much faster and its smoother when it cycles now too. I did find out she shoots 1 clover leaf per mag no matter who shoots it. Even with a loose slide to frame fit. I just wanted to do a ha, ha, build just to see and learn as i went. I ened up with a really nice good shooter too in the process. I made more changes too on it. I installed an adjustable trigger and machined a ramp for the disconnector. The ramp for the disconnector removes the "bump" when the disconnector hits that square edge on the slide. The area i'm talking about is below the firing pin hole. Now i can't wait to try some good target ammo in it next.

Then it hit me that i had the SA 1911 in the safe that stove pipes 1rd per mag. Hmmm????? Ok i figured out its a loose extractor. Simple there was no tention on it. I ordered all the 1911 tools for tuning the 1911 extractor and went to work.
The first trip to the range my 1990 still brand new SA 1911 shoots and cycles awesome. I'm happy i kept it.

I'm so impressed i ordered the wilson combat dvd's and the 1911 AGI dvd's too. During the winter at night i watch all the dvd's over and over to keep everything fresh in my mind.

Someday i'd like to tighten up the loose slide to frame rail fit but i'm also looking at different ways of doing it. I'm not fond of the peening. I think there is a better way we can tighten it up just a tad. We can have it too snug or we lose the reliability/dependability.

We ran 500rds thru the norc so far and its been flawless. Were going to do the 500rd test soon on my 1990's 1911. If it passes the 500rd test then i feel safe carrying it.

The 1911 isn't that hard to work on once we find the problem.
We can do anything we put are minds too just never give up. I don't expect to ever be a guru gunsmith but i can repair my own guns. Bill

Here's a pic of my 1990 SA series 90 1911a1 in 45acp.
 

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sipowicz said:
No shock buff Deadaye...and I will check the recoil spring next time I shoot it...Cholla told me to check the ejection and see if the shell ejects 5-10 feet behind me...if not, I will change out the spring to another new 16 and grab a 14 just in case the ammo is too weak.....it is 7 years old but I don't think it has more than a 1000 rounds thru it...:)
Click to expand...

Sip: No, I told you that the brass should be 5 to 10 ft to your RIGHT and only slightly behind the muzzle. :-)

The last picture you posted indicates that the bullet nose design or OverAllLength of the ammo is causing a 'bounce' during the chambering of the next round and it never gets centered enough to be pushed into the chamber. Change ammo with a different bullet design, seat the bullets a little deeper into the case or have a Model 1911 smith alter the feed ramp of the barrel. ............ Big Cholla
 
All good advice...thanks guys...and Cholla, I meant to my right...duh, I'm a bit tired.....Big Bill, good info...I have a fiend who is going to look at it...he is pretty handy with M14s and 1911s...:)
 
If you dry fire your Kimber with a snap cap. Do not load the snap cap by dropping it in the chamber and then closing the slide. Doing it that way will cause the extractor to snap over the rim of the cap and bend it. Just a word to the wise. I've seen guys do this to wind up with 8 rds. (including loaded chamber) without having to reload 1 cartridge in the magoziny.
 
I'd try regular old hard ball (round nose) .45ACP before I did anything to the gun.
JMB designed the gun around a specific bullet - Try them first.

There's also reference above about the bullet bouncing.
I'm not really sure what that meant
But - In a 1911 the bullets don't *slide* up the feed ramp - they do indeed *bounce* a bit.
This is normal.
 
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DeadAye said:
I'd try regular old hard ball (round nose) .45ACP before I did anything to the gun.
JMB designed the gun around a specific bullet - Try them first.

...l.
Click to expand...

That's right! If John Moses wanted the 1911 to run anything else, he would have invented it!:D

Put the 18 lb spring back in, run a box of 230 Gr. Hardball through her - and another, and another ...
 
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