I wanted a 5906...

rwsmith

rwsmith

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I looked on Gunbroker and to get one in good shape was going to cost $500-600 on up. I got to thinking. I've got an alloy frame 5943 that I like, maybe I could look at the 5903 instead. I found one with a few scratches around the takedown pin (I know the pin can be a bear to get out of third gens) and a scratch on the grip. I'm more interested in the gun and the action than cosmetics. The asking price was $429. I offered 400 and it was accepted. Of course tax, shipping and no discount due to credit card, the price climbed up some. I took care of the details and thought, "Now I just have to tell Missus Smiff."

I've bought three guns this year. An S&W 9mm EZ, an S&W .380 EZ (her gun) and a Ruger carbine. So this makes number four. The dogs wanted to go out and she came in the room and saw my wallet there and inquired what I was up to. I told her.

I have been advised that I'm not to buy any guns for a long while.:D


PS: I was planning on waiting to buy and just wanted to see what I would have to spend, but when I saw the 5903 I couldn't let it get away.
 
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I bought a 5903 many moons ago simply because I didn't own a 9mm. That has been corrected many times over since. However, when I first got into guns, I was a 40 fan (still am). My first Smith was a 1076 when I bought the 5903. I think it was a LE trade in and picked up at a gun show for about $275 I think. That was likely around 2002 or so.

I do like the alloy frames however, especially if you ever consider on carrying. For range only work, the steel ones are nice.

Used and abused ones, I prefer steel since I can bead blast them back to factory. The alloy frames just have wear the abuse.

Rosewood
 
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Could you possibly....

rosewood said:
.......Used and abused ones, I prefer steel since I can bead blast them back to factory. The alloy frames just have wear the abuse.

Rosewood
Click to expand...

Like I side, I'm not really worried about the cosmetics, but COULD one use a Dremel or something to polish out the scratches on an alloy frame? The scratches are in that indented place where the side where you push out the pin.
 
rwsmith said:
Like I side, I'm not really worried about the cosmetics, but COULD one use a Dremel or something to polish out the scratches on an alloy frame? The scratches are in that indented place where the side where you push out the pin.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is possible to polish out (or sand, scotchbrite, bead blast) scratches on an alloy (or steel) part.

But the repair will NOT be invisible unless the ENTIRE part gets the polish (or sand, scotchbrite, bead blast).

Just like paint on a car, there are no invisible "touch-ups" on guns.

John
 
I took a picture.....

JohnHL said:
Yes, it is possible to polish out (or sand, scotchbrite, bead blast) scratches on an alloy (or steel) part.

But the repair will NOT be invisible unless the ENTIRE part gets the polish (or sand, scotchbrite, bead blast).

Just like paint on a car, there are no invisible "touch-ups" on guns.

John
Click to expand...

I took a picture of the picture showing the marks. IF I decided to polish that out it would only be in the indented area.
 

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Nice buy. I have an Atlanta Police trade in 5903, I wish it could talk. It has a few cosmetic scratches, I do not care as it shoots perfect after I learned that it had a spring job for heavier loads.
 

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rwsmith said:
I took a picture of the picture showing the marks. IF I decided to polish that out it would only be in the indented area.
Click to expand...

As that dimple is isolated by its rim from the rest of the frame, it is conceivable that if a properly radiused burr or stone was obtained and carefully applied to that area (I would put the pistol in the drill press vice and lower the bit into the work, were I sufficiently disturbed by the gouges), the repair could be blended in to the remainder of the finish.

One caveat: the area of the frame above the slide release hole is a notorious location for cracks to occur, especially on alloy framed pistols.

Thinning that area should be approached cautiously.

John
 
rwsmith said:
I took a picture of the picture showing the marks. IF I decided to polish that out it would only be in the indented area.
Click to expand...
Looks like Bubba used a hammer and a punch to remove that slide stop pin. I would not try to polish out the marks. First, the metal around the slide stop pin is already fairly thin, polishing to the depths of those marks will make it thinner. Second, aluminum receivers have an anodized finish which prevents oxidation and gives a the aluminum a harder surface to resist scratching. Polishing will remove the anodized surface.
 
Thanks....

stansdds said:
Looks like Bubba used a hammer and a punch to remove that slide stop pin. I would not try to polish out the marks. First, the metal around the slide stop pin is already fairly thin, polishing to the depths of those marks will make it thinner. Second, aluminum receivers have an anodized finish which prevents oxidation and gives a the aluminum a harder surface to resist scratching. Polishing will remove the anodized surface.
Click to expand...

...That's what I needed to know.:)

I know the pins are difficult to remove. I usually enlist help. I hold the slide in the right place and my wife pushes the pin out. I can do it myself. Barely.:confused:
 
rwsmith said:
...That's what I needed to know.:)

I know the pins are difficult to remove. I usually enlist help. I hold the slide in the right place and my wife pushes the pin out. I can do it myself. Barely.:confused:
Click to expand...
It ain't easy, especially with slides that have Novak rear sights. The smooth shape of the Novak sight makes it more snag resistant, but it also affords less purchase when trying to hold the slide at that just right spot to get the slide stop out. I find it even more difficult after my 6906 or 6946 has been to the range.
 
I have a 5906 TSW. I drilled a hole in a short piece of 4X4 slightly larger than the barrel. I put the pistol over the hole and push down with my right hand to get the extraction notch lined up and push the pin out with a 5/16 dowel 6" long with a tapered and rounded end.
Also I have a 645 that made me come up with this approach. I think a 2X4 may be thick enough
 
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Heinz said:
I have a 5906 TSW. I drilled a hole in a short piece of 4X4 slightly larger than the barrel. I put the pistol over the hole and push down with my right hand to get the extraction notch lined up and push the pin out with a 5/16 dowel 6" long with a tapered and rounded end.
Also I have a 645 that made me come up with this approach. I think a 2X4 may be thick enough
Click to expand...
Now there's a good idea!
 
Heinz said:
I have a 5906 TSW. I drilled a hole in a short piece of 4X4 slightly larger than the barrel. I put the pistol over the hole and push down with my right hand to get the extraction notch lined up and push the pin out with a 5/16 dowel 6" long with a tapered and rounded end.
Also I have a 645 that made me come up with this approach. I think a 2X4 may be thick enough
Click to expand...

A new take on the Mauser k98k bolt disassembly washer?:cool:
 
Heinz said:
I have a 5906 TSW. I drilled a hole in a short piece of 4X4 slightly larger than the barrel. I put the pistol over the hole and push down with my right hand to get the extraction notch lined up and push the pin out with a 5/16 dowel 6" long with a tapered and rounded end.
Also I have a 645 that made me come up with this approach. I think a 2X4 may be thick enough
Click to expand...

I guess I am not old enough yet. I pull slide back and hold gun with right hand open and remove pin with left hand. Never needed any help. I guess those days are coming.

Rosewood
 
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