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warrenshooter

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Greetings all! New to the site. From northern N.J. Have been shooting handguns and hunting for many years and hope to learn more about the S&W handguns that I have here. I am having a little trouble with the ID of one handgun. It is a S&W, 6 shot, 44 special with a 6.5 inch barrel. No model number. The serial # on the butt is 23xxx. There is an "L" stamped on the frame above the frame serial #. I am guessing it is a 1926 Military, 3rd model, as it does not have the triple lock. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks for your help!
 

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It looks like a 3rd model but 23xxx is pretty early for that barrel, does the barrel have a serial number also, if so, what is it. I wonder if it's a second model with a 3rd model barrel?
 
Welcome to the Forum.

Please check the serial number again. The 3rd model with the ejector rod shroud started with serial number 28358. The "3" that you see is probably an "8". The serial number is also inside of the shroud.

Otherwise, that looks like a very nice 1926 (aka 3rd Model .44).
 
Welcome to the Forum.

Please check the serial number again. The 3rd model with the ejector rod shroud started with serial number 28358. The "3" that you see is probably an "8". The serial number is also inside of the shroud.

Otherwise, that looks like a very nice 1926 (aka 3rd Model .44).

I agree. According to my data, the first 3rd Model SN was 28363 and shipped on 1/27/1927. I suppose it could be 28353. So you probably misread the 8 as a 3.
 
You are right! I should have used glasses. Ser.#29547. I tried looking it up on gunbroker, but didn't see any close. There is no way it is a 1950 Military, right? Any idea of the value range, thanks.
 
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I agree. According to my data, the first 3rd Model SN was 28363 and shipped on 1/27/1927. I suppose it could be 28353. So you probably misread the 8 as a 3.

Page 159 of the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, 3rd Edition lists the first 3rd model .44 as # 28358. I had a conversation with Roy Jinks about these revolvers at the 2007 Richmond meeting and he confirmed this SN.

# 28363 is the lowest known surviving 3rd model in the data base.

BTW, I wiped it down about a week ago. :)
 
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You are right! I should have used glasses. Ser.#29547. I tried looking it up on gunbroker, but didn't see any close. There is no way it is a 1950 Military, right? Any idea of the value range, thanks.

Sounds like it's a rare and valuable 3rd model with 6.5" barrel, probably made in the end of the 20s. You should confirm all numbers match, under the grips, in the barrel shroud, back of the cylinder, under the ejector star. Interesting that there's a lanyard loop.

Where'd you happen upon this fine and rare collectable gun?
 
It was given to my father in 1970 ,from my uncle after he passed away. Both men served in WWII. My uncle had quite a gun collection many of which were sold by his wife after his death. My Dad managed to get a few from her and they were passed to me.
 
I don't want to insult you guys, but there is no way it is a 1950 Military right? The other 38 I posted was made in 1951 so I just want to make sure. From my uneducated eye the 1950 military and 1926 look similar. Thanks.
 
I don't want to insult you guys, but there is no way it is a 1950 Military right? The other 38 I posted was made in 1951 so I just want to make sure. From my uneducated eye the 1950 military and 1926 look similar. Thanks.

Not a chance. This is a pre WW II long action N frame, worth quite a bit all on it's own merit.

Post WW II N frames had serial numbers that started with an "S".
 
Anyone give me a ballpark value. Won't be selling just would like to know what I have. Thanks!
 
Not many of those change hands in public, so coming up with a price is kind of a speculative exercise. If everything matches and the finish is original, high side of 2 grand for sure, maybe much more, I have never seen one sell.
 
Anyone give me a ballpark value. Won't be selling just would like to know what I have. Thanks!

Warren,
Your 44 appears to be an all original, very nice condition example!

With only 10 posts you may be wondering what the hell a W&K is. The 44 Model 1926 (3rd model) reintroduced the shrouded barrel of the triple lock at the behest of a large Texas S&W dealer, Wolf and Klar. Its Texas clientele preferred it over the 44 2nd model with just the barrel lug. Being a W&K would mean it actually shipped to W&K which is a plus for collector desirability but only a factory authentication letter will confirm that; $50 from Smith.

Just under 5000 of the 3rd model were produced pre WW II and another ~1500 post war Transitional models after the war and prior to the Model 1950 introduction. The 6 1/2" barrel on a non-target model is unusual.

Value is in the $2500 and up ballpark and who knows what it would bring in an On-line auction these days!

The 6 serial # locations on pre war non-target models are:

Gun butt* - or forestrap* on I frames with grips that cover the butt
Barrel** - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
Yoke** - on rear face visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
Extractor star - backside
Cylinder - rear face
Right stock*** – backside

*NOTE: The one TRUE place you can be sure of reading the serial number, including letter prefixes (after WW II), is the BUTT of the gun, (or Front grip strap on non-round butt .22/32 & Regulation Police pre Model of 1953 I frames). The number on the butt may be drilled thru by the factory for installation of a lanyard ring but is re-stamped on the grip frame, under the left stock. Factory installed rings are always 1/10” forward of center.

Other multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke, yoke cut in frame near the hinge and inside of the sideplate, pre war and early post war; the frame # in the yoke cut, changing to the left side of grip frame after model #s were assigned and also serial #s were stamped in the yoke cut. You know they are assembly (factory work) #s because of those 3* locations that always match on guns that are original, and that’s the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory: still used to this day, long after serial number locations decreased.

**NOTE: 'B' or 'N' stamp: ahead of pre war serial # on the barrel flat (or in shroud), rear face of yoke and by itself on right side grip frame on commercial guns (only on left side grip frame post war) indicates an original Blue finish or for an original Nickel finish based upon the corresponding letter. The lack of either the 'B' or 'N' can indicate that it left the factory nickeled. Also there was a larger B behind the barrel serial # for the Bright blue optional finish in the post war era - early ‘50s when satin blue was standard. “I've seen nickel Triple Locks with N stamps. I've seen them without it, too. Pre-war guns MAY have an N, or they may simply lack B's.” Regards, Lee Jarrett
The post war and the 1950s period, was one of much evolution. There was the usual transition when finish code letter stamps were dropped and frame code letter s/n prefixes began, when there were neither letter stamps on major parts (except the butt).

*** Stamped since 1857, stock #s changed to penciled #s c. 1900 and back to stamped #s in 1929. Usually scratched on hard rubber grips.

Hope that helps,
 
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Warren,
Your 44 appears to be an all original, very nice condition example!

With only 10 posts you may be wondering what the hell a W&K is. The 44 Model 1926 (3rd model) reintroduced the shrouded barrel of the triple lock at the behest of a large Texas S&W dealer, Wolf and Klar. Its Texas clientele preferred it over the 44 2nd model with just the barrel lug. Being a W&K would mean it actually shipped to W&K which is a plus for collector desirability but only a factory authentication letter will confirm that; $50 from Smith.

Just under 5000 of the 3rd model were produced pre WW II and another ~1500 post war Transitional models after the war and prior to the Model 1950 introduction. The 6 1/2" barrel on a non-target model is unusual.

Value is in the $2500 and up ballpark and who knows what it would bring in an On-line auction these days!

The 6 serial # locations on pre war non-target models are:

Gun butt* - or forestrap* on I frames with grips that cover the butt
Barrel** - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
Yoke** - on rear face visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
Extractor star - backside
Cylinder** - rear face
Right stock*** – backside

*NOTE: The one TRUE place you can be sure of reading the serial number, including letter prefixes (after WW II), is the BUTT of the gun, (or Front grip strap on non-round butt .22/32 & Regulation Police pre Model of 1953 I frames). The number on the butt may be drilled thru by the factory for installation of a lanyard ring but is re-stamped on the grip frame, under the left stock. Factory installed rings are always 1/10” forward of center.

Other multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke, yoke cut in frame near the hinge and inside of the sideplate, pre war and early post war; the frame # in the yoke cut, changing to the left side of grip frame after model #s were assigned and also serial #s were stamped in the yoke cut. You know they are assembly (factory work) #s because of those 3* locations that always match on guns that are original, and that’s the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory: still used to this day, long after serial number locations decreased.

**NOTE: 'B' or 'N' stamp: ahead of pre war serial # on the barrel flat (or in shroud), rear face of yoke and by itself on right side grip frame on commercial guns (only on left side grip frame post war) indicates an original Blue finish or for an original Nickel finish based upon the corresponding letter. The lack of either the 'B' or 'N' can indicate that it left the factory nickeled. Also there was a larger B behind the barrel serial # for the Bright blue optional finish in the post war era - early ‘50s when satin blue was standard. “I've seen nickel Triple Locks with N stamps. I've seen them without it, too. Pre-war guns MAY have an N, or they may simply lack B's.” Regards, Lee Jarrett
The post war and the 1950s period, was one of much evolution. There was the usual transition when finish code letter stamps were dropped and frame code letter s/n prefixes began, when there were neither letter stamps on major parts (except the butt).

*** Stamped since 1857, stock #s changed to penciled #s c. 1900 and back to stamped #s in 1929. Usually scratched on hard rubber grips.

Hope that helps,

Wow, that's some great info! Thank you. I'll over the gun later and see what I find with the info. you gave me.
 
I found a "B" on the barrel next to the ser.#, so I'm assuming it had the "bright blue option". There is also a "B" on the bottom of the frame under the wood grip. When I first looked I couldn't see any ser.# on the grip, but after rereading Hondo44's post I could see it written in pencil on the inside of the grip, just barely legible. There is also an "L" as shown in photo.

All numbers match! So that's good!
 

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"I found a "B" on the barrel next to the ser.#, so I'm assuming it had the "bright blue option"."

In that particular era, the "B" stood for blue finish, as shipped from the factory. Lack of a "B" in the barrel shroud meant that the revolver shipped as nickel.
 
I found a "B" on the barrel next to the ser.#, so I'm assuming it had the "bright blue option". There is also a "B" on the bottom of the frame under the wood grip. When I first looked I couldn't see any ser.# on the grip, but after rereading Hondo44's post I could see it written in pencil on the inside of the grip, just barely legible. There is also an "L" as shown in photo.

All numbers match! So that's good!

Your gun does have the bright blue finish and it was an upgrade following WW I since it's been established that your gun was shipped in the April/May 1927 period. The bright blue factory change order for all blue guns to have a bright blue finish as standard was on 2/11/29. The B on your barrel should be in front of the s/n stamp.

The 'L':
Misc. single digit letter or number stamps in yoke and cylinder and/or grip frame either side are fitter stamps and inspector stamps in general. An L on front face of cylinder of post 1960 models indicates left hand threaded extractor rod.
 

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