Identification help

Florida Guy

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Would serial #9516xx be a 38 special hand ejector M&P?
Catalog dates it between 1940-45 if I'm correct.
Gun has lanyard hole in bottom of frame.
Excellent condition but wrong grips.
Anyone care to offer a price range, as I am looking at possible purchase. How desirable are they.
It is a one liner.
 
It would be an early 1942 pre-Victory model M&P. A lot of them were modified from .38 S&W to .38 Special (plus other atrocities, such as shortening the barrel and refinishing) after the war. Without more information, it's not possible to give a good value estimate. Don't fall in love until you know exactly what it is, and what may be wrong with it.
 
It looks like the barrel says 38S. S&W Special Ctg.
Doesn't seem to be a turn line on the cylinder - like new.
 
Don't fall in love until you know exactly what it is, and what may be wrong with it.

Great advice. "Great condition" and modified grips scream out "restoration" and refinish.

A little more info as to markings and proof stamps would allow some of the very knowledgeable folks here determine if checking the chambers would be prudent.

It might me a diamond in the rough. But more likely it might make a decent shooter for the right price.

Do you know what to look for as far as a refinish?
 
Regarding the finish, during that period it could have been either blued or phosphate, like Parkerizing. If blued, it would not be a high-gloss pre-war commercial blue, but a duller, sandblasted appearance. The Phosphate finish would be a duller dark gray that does not resemble bluing. Trigger and hammer would not be blued or phosphate, but may show case hardening colors. There are visual clues for refinishing such as rounded areas which should be sharp and square, dished screw holes, sort of a "channel" along the line separating the sideplate from the frame, instead of a very sharp, thin joint, etc. A few good pictures would be essential to get a better idea, but most people who have been around guns for awhile can spot a refinish a mile away, even a good refinish, as they will have a "not quite right" appearance.
 
Another tell tale sign of a refinish is the end of the ejector rod, where it is beveled. The beveled area should not have a finish on it.
 
That's a winner! It is originally chambered for the .38 S&W Special. And looks like a righteous gun although the other side has more areas that give us clues to its originality. But that gun looks original; even the unfinished ER knob front surface Cooter mentioned.

I think it's a US Commercial gun. Are the "wrong" stocks" checkered w/medallions? They would be right for a com'l sale gun. Or do you mean the serial # on the back of the right hand stock panel doesn't match the gun's #?

Is the lanyard ring hole neatly plugged or empty? These com'l models often had the ring but owners removed them and sometimes they were factory plugged.

It may or may not have a US Property stamp on the top strap.
 
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My guess is it's a pre-war US government contract gun, a "pre-Victory Model" if you will, in matte blue. It may have had silver medallion checkered or smooth walnut stocks by this time (1941?), and should have had a lanyard ring.

No S prefix on the serial number, correct?
 
It looks to be in great shape but the grips have been replaced with non-diamond magnas.
 
Florida Guy,
You're sure right about the stocks, those are post war, post c. 1968.

Here's jmarie's thread with a similar pre victory model. Notice the more common parkerized finish;
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/311933-help-identifying.html

These are the pre war stocks you'll need; flat silver medallions and checkering borders with the sharp corners:
100_4216_zps06e71a1f.jpg
 
It looks OK, aside from the incorrect grips. If you buy it, it's probably worth a factory letter to establish if it was intended for military or for stateside civilian use (law enforcement, defense plant guards, etc.). Non-military guns make up only a small percentage of M&Ps made during this period, and do command a premium if complete and original. The lanyard swivel and grip panels can be replaced.
 

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