Identify my .32 Long

[Trap Ljutic]

Here is a gun that I bought several years ago, and I would like to know its model number and frame size. The first time that I showed it to my buddies, they asked if I found it in a dumpster. It has corrosion through the nickel plating several places on the frame, with much more corrosion on the cylinder. The insides of the barrel and cylinders look rough, also. I have shot this gun, and it spits lead. The timing is off a little bit; I guess that it needs a new hand. It also has real pearl grips, one of which is chipped significantly. Still, I think it is a good looking antique Smith and Wesson.
Hand Ejector.
SN 80071 star on the butt, 80071 on barrel and cylinder.
.32 Long Ctg.
Barrel lenght is 3 - 1/4 inches.
Fixed sights front and rear.
Pictures below.

 

[murphydog]

This is a .32 Hand Ejector model 1903, probably shipped in 1908. The star stamping indicates a factory return for work, often but not always a refinish. If you look at the left lower grip frame there is a 5 . 26 (36?), which is when the work was done.

It is nowhere near the worst finish I've seen on a gun of that era. Hope this is helpful.

 

[Trap Ljutic]

Thanks alot for the information, this is exactly what I have been wondering about.
Arthur

 

[Hondo44]

Trap,

If the pearl grips were factory original, they would have gold plated S&W emblems inlayed at the top.

 

[glowe]

I like the old 32 HEs. Your left butt frame had what looks like a 5.20 stamped on it, and was returned to the factory in May, 1920. Technically, your revolver is not an antique, since that designation is determined by guns manufactured before 1899.

You do have a nice "vintage" S&W that will clean up with the use of a good quality polish. Many use a product called Flitz, but I prefer Meguires Scratch 2.0 polish. Give it a coat of oil or wax after done and you will be amazed how nice it will look.

I would also check ebay for a set of nice original hard rubber stocks for an I frame revolver to replace your damaged non-factory pearls when taking your gun to the range.

 

[Jaymo]

vintage gun grips has reproduction stocks made of polyurethane, available in a plethora of colors.
I'd use them instead of hard rubber, for range duty.
Hard rubber is brittle. And replacing original S&W hard rubber stocks is probably harder to do and more expensive than buying a set of tough polyurethane stocks.
The hard rubber are "right" for the gun. Just not always right for durability.
You can find reproductions of the S&W hard rubber stocks here:
Smith & Wesson

These appear to be the correct ones for your revolver. Make sure to measure your stocks and compare the measurements to those listed on the site.
http://www.vintagegungrips.net/ao-s10.html

I hope this helps.
I almost bought one a lot like this, but with a longer barrel and original(with a semicircular crack in the bottom of one) hard rubber stocks.
I ended up buying a 1971 or 72 36 no dash instead. The Chief's Special will be a self defense carry gun for me.
The .32 would be a range toy for me, since I already have a 31-1 3" I can use for SD, that takes the same stocks as the 36.

 

[JP@AK]

vintage gun grips has reproduction stocks made of polyurethane, available in a plethora of colors.
I'd use them instead of hard rubber, for range duty.
Hard rubber is brittle. And replacing original S&W hard rubber stocks is probably harder to do and more expensive than buying a set of tough polyurethane stocks.
The hard rubber are "right" for the gun. Just not always right for durability.
You can find reproductions of the S&W hard rubber stocks here:
Smith & Wesson

These appear to be the correct ones for your revolver. Make sure to measure your stocks and compare the measurements to those listed on the site.
S & W Hand Ejector .32 Check Your Grip Measurements)

I hope this helps.
I almost bought one a lot like this, but with a longer barrel and original(with a semicircular crack in the bottom of one) hard rubber stocks.
I ended up buying a 1971 or 72 36 no dash instead. The Chief's Special will be a self defense carry gun for me.
The .32 would be a range toy for me, since I already have a 31-1 3" I can use for SD, that takes the same stocks as the 36.

Trap Ljutic
I actually have a brand new pair of the reproduction stocks mentioned here by Jaymo. I have no use for them, so I would be willing to let you have them for less than those in his link. If you are interested, send me a PM and we'll work something out.
Jack

 

[glowe]

Hard rubber is brittle. And replacing original S&W hard rubber stocks is probably harder to do and more expensive than buying a set of tough polyurethane stocks.
The hard rubber are "right" for the gun. Just not always right for durability.

Vintage Gun Grips plastic stocks are often not the best quality. First, they are only as good as the stocks used to make their molds and some have worn checkering. Others I have tried were warped and did not fit well. The bottom pin hole was not lined up on some others. I also find that if you watch ebay, you can find original I frame stocks for the same price as reproductions after you pay for the plastic stocks and add the exorbitant cost of the screw and then shipping. I also have never had any problems with hard rubber stocks breaking or chipping unless you drop the gun or pry off the stocks.

They are, at best, copies and I will always opt for originals.

 

[Trap Ljutic]

Guys: Thanks again for all of the information. That service date stamped on the frame is 5.20, May 1920. This thing is older than I ever thought.
Arthur