If you were to buy a Taurus 85...

Mexistrat

Mexistrat

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TLDR: I am buying a Taurus 85. Soliciting tips for pre-buy inspection and post-buy service prior to carrying.

I have used the search engine, and read all I could find on these and other forums regarding the Taurus 85. Without an official tally, it seems that most people have had good experiences with the 85. Very few have complained about that model specifically. No more than any other gun by any other manufacturer as far as I can tell.

I have decided that for my purposes in this particular gun (deep concealment, tossed under the seat as needed, general knock around gun) that the 85 is suitable for when it is less reasonable to carry my M&P9c.

Of course I will thoroughly inspect prior to buying, though if I buy new I will not be able to shoot it first.

So with all of that in mind, when I do go to buy the 85, is there anything I should expect to do immediately afterward to ensure that it runs properly? I am no gunsmith, but I have heard that some people will disassemble and clean/inspect the 85 prior to putting it into service. Of course this should not be necessary, but at such a low price point, I wouldn't be put off if some extra care were needed to make sure everything is peachy.

After buying I will shoot it lots before it goes into the carry holster. That goes for any gun.
 
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The steel model 85's are generally decent pistols. I had the .357 Magnum frame version, the 605 as my first carry gun over 20 years ago. I also owned an 85 and and 85 UltraLite for brief periods of time.

The steel 85 had a somewhat heavy single action trigger compared to S&W J frames, however the double action pull was quite smooth and reasonably light. The revolver was timed well and locked-up fairly tightly. The revolver made gritty sounds when I thumbed the hammer back ,so removed the side-plate and clean out a few small metal chips left over from the machining operation.

My 85 UltraLite had multiple issues with the side plate screw which retains the cylinder yoke. The screw kept coming loose, even when cleaned and Loctited. The screw wasn't machined correctly and Taurus would not ship a new screw forcing me to send the gun back. I received the gun back in about a month. On the first range session after the repair, my wife was shooting her carry loads when she stopped and asked me what was wrong with the gun. Under recoil, same screw had popped out allowing the crane/cylinder to come out in my wife's hand when she ejected the empties. This time, I had my local LGS contact Tuarus and order a screw which was out of stock and on back order. Months later the screw came in, a new version with red thread locker already applied. I installed the screw and traded the gun in on a Smith & Wesson 642-2!
 
The 85 I had in the Eighties was a fine gun: accurate and well made. Alas, it developed a light-strike problem. Based on my experiences with Taurus revolvers, I'd check timing and lock-up carefully before buying, and I'd get myself a back-up mainspring.
 
steamloco76 said:
The steel model 85's are generally decent pistols. I had the .357 Magnum frame version, the 605 as my first carry gun over 20 years ago. I also owned an 85 and and 85 UltraLite for brief periods of time.

The steel 85 had a somewhat heavy single action trigger compared to S&W J frames, however the double action pull was quite smooth and reasonably light. The revolver was timed well and locked-up fairly tightly. The revolver made gritty sounds when I thumbed the hammer back ,so removed the side-plate and clean out a few small metal chips left over from the machining operation.

My 85 UltraLite had multiple issues with the side plate screw which retains the cylinder yoke. The screw kept coming loose, even when cleaned and Loctited. The screw wasn't machined correctly and Taurus would not ship a new screw forcing me to send the gun back. I received the gun back in about a month. On the first range session after the repair, my wife was shooting her carry loads when she stopped and asked me what was wrong with the gun. Under recoil, same screw had popped out allowing the crane/cylinder to come out in my wife's hand when she ejected the empties. This time, I had my local LGS contact Tuarus and order a screw which was out of stock and on back order. Months later the screw came in, a new version with red thread locker already applied. I installed the screw and traded the gun in on a Smith & Wesson 642-2!
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this steamloco76, as I have a friend that experienced a similar problem with his.

To OP, I will only say that I had a few Taurus in the 80's and 90's, none of which I still have, nor anymore will I ever buy.

My recommendation is to spend a little more money and buy a quality revolver, such as a S&W, Ruger, and now Colt is back, as you get what you pay for.
 
I have owned several Taurus 82 & 85 revolvers. They are good guns for the most part, but QC can be spotty depending on it's age. New Taurus revolvers are pushing $400.00 in my area, though one place puts them on sale for around $300.00 a few times a year. You might be able to pick up a used S&W for the same amount of money.

Here is my last Taurus 85, which was dirt cheap. I think I gave it away, though it may have been a Rossi 68 I gave away.
004282.JPG


The Rossi.
rossir.JPG
 
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After my experience with the all stainless Taurus Model 85, I go with Charter Arms Undercovers. At least they fire when the trigger is pulled, every time, which is more than I can say about the Taurus...........
 
a new smith airweight goes for320.00 to 400.00 around the Cleveland area I wouldn't even consider the taurus
 
I wouldn't own one because the trigger has such a darn heavy pull.
I would buy a S&W for about the same money and be much better off. The S&W will be much easier to sell than the Taurus also in case you ever wanted to get another gun to replace it.
I have two Rossi revolvers that are clones to the S&W model 36 and model 60. They are like new and I got them used for under $200 each. They have a really good trigger. I have owned the M68-5 for over 20 years and never had a problem with it or the M88-5. They were actually made as clones when S&W was under the same mother company years ago.
I would suggest you shoot a Taurus 85 before buying one. You just might not like it and then selling it could be a problem getting near what you paid for it..
 

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Older S&W revolvers around me seem to command the collector premium, which I am not willing to pay. If I can find an Airweight locally that is priced within $100 of a new Taurus, I'll buy it.
 
If I were to buy a Taurus... I'd wake up from that nightmare and find my S&W
 
I can't speak directly to the 85, but I have an 82 that I bought last year. It has been extremely reliable and accurate throughout its first 1200 rounds. Trigger is smooth and perfectly acceptable in terms of pull weight in both SA and DA. No light strikes, no loose screws, no issues, period. Maybe I just got lucky? I don't know. My only other Taurus is an older 9mm subcompact that has been flawless through about 10,000 rounds now.

The only thing I did before shooting it the first time was wipe it down and put a few drops of oil in the right places.
 
I have a SS 85 I bought in 98' or so.
I put Wolff springs in it and the trigger, both double and single action, is one of the best snubby triggers I've used.
It's been reliable, but to be honest, I rarely shoot it any more and haven't put more than 150 rounds through it.
It sits in an end table.
I would agree though, that you would be better off finding a Smith 442/642/10 for not much more or any more in the case of a 10.
I have one of those that has absolutely the best trigger of any handgun I own. For under $300 two years ago
 
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