Importance of Cylinder tolerance on Early Model 38

[jringo8769]

well i have a Early J frame Model 38..serial number 330551 i just got and we are ready to refinish it and found out the ejector is damaged and have found a few new cylinders with ejectors..but i am told they can be different sizes...my question is how close do the tolerances need to be..i have 1.533 and have found new ones with tolerances of 1.527 and 1.530...i tried a 1.5350 and it fit the gun and seemed to function as well...i just dont want to waste money or time chasing something that wont work...any help will so be appreciated..thanks in advance ...it is on a early flat latch model 38..i am told cylinders are different on the early ones too

 

[armorer951]

repl cylinder

If the gun carrys up properly with the new cyl installed, then the important gauge(s) would be the barrel cylinder gap and the rear gauge between the "breechface" and the rear of the cylinder. Pictures, and a description of the gun more specific than "early model 38" would definately help.
If you can't find data online, you might give S&W customer service a call. There might be someone there who could help you with the questions you have. 1-800-331-0852

 

[jringo8769]

well it is a Smith J frame model 38 serial 330551 and the ejector was bent and restraightened badly ..So i found a new replacement cylinder and ejector. i was told it should be close in size and that the extractor should be the same style as they changed over the years. I am just not sure what the specs are...closest one is three thousandths smaller than the original cylinder length...any help will so be appreciated

 

[s&wchad]

If it's just the ejector rod that's bent, change the rod and use the old cylinder and extractor star. -.003" should be fine and a rod swap won't alter headspace or endshake. The rod unscrews but has reversed threads, so you'll turn it clockwise to loosen. DON"T use pliers, you can purchase a tool from Brownell's or use a drill chuck. Make sure you put fired cases in the chambers to support the extractor when tightening or loosening.

 

[hotrod150]

To unscrew the ejector rod, you can clamp an old-fashioned clothespin on the ejector at the knurled end and then clamp that in a vise. Put cartridges in the charge holes to back up the extractor pins.
The newer Smith ejector rods are LH thread, but originally they were right hand. SCSW says the change to LH thread was in 1961 for the model 10, but doesn't seem to mention RH thread in reference to the j-fames. Does anyone know when the j-frames were changed to LH thread, or maybe they were LH from the git-go?

 

[s&wchad]

or maybe they were LH from the git-go?

Yes, all J's have LH threads.

 

[hotrod150]

Another little tidbit of S&W knowledge to file away. Thanks.
Why the change BTW? Were the RH extractors more subject to unscrewing themselves?

 

[s&wchad]

Why the change BTW? Were the RH extractors more subject to unscrewing themselves?

Yes. S&W cylinders rotate counter clockwise and the drag caused by the under barrel latch wants to loosen the rod with right hand threads. The drag with left hand threads has a tendency to tighten it (theoretically).

 

[jringo8769]

well who ever had it before me did not heed that and cross threaded it and destroyed it..i see they did not know why the latch worked so hard so they tried everything to make it work better and did not accomplish it..so i have bought a new NOS bolt...a new NOS extractor and cylinder with a extractor rod and center pin ...all had been modified by someone who had no idea what they were doing...i would prefer to reuse the cylinder but they also took sandpaper to entire gun and have done much damage to the old one...it can be easily fixed but new one is perfect and will be less work in the long run...i will add new pics once all the new pieces are here...has anyone ever changed the cylinder stop on the side of the gun?...

 

[saemetric]

well i have a Early J frame Model 38..serial number 330551 i just got and we are ready to refinish it and found out the ejector is damaged and have found a few new cylinders with ejectors..but i am told they can be different sizes...my question is how close do the tolerances need to be..i have 1.533 and have found new ones with tolerances of 1.527 and 1.530...i tried a 1.5350 and it fit the gun and seemed to function as well...i just dont want to waste money or time chasing something that wont work...any help will so be appreciated..thanks in advance ...it is on a early flat latch model 38..i am told cylinders are different on the early ones too

Not sure what type of refinish, but S&W will not refinish Model 38 or any aluminum frame J frame because the bbl. must be removed to do it and they will not do it because frame may crack. You can do other types w/o bbl. removal.