Improving Accuracy of a 686

Taz1911

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I have a 686 and would like to know what kind of work can be done on a revolver to improve Bullseye accuracy. I am very familiar with Semi Autos and what can be done but not with revolvers this is my only one.
 
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I have a 686 and would like to know what kind of work can be done on a revolver to improve Bullseye accuracy. I am very familiar with Semi Autos and what can be done but not with revolvers this is my only one.
 
There is an old saying that goes something like this: An autoloader can be accurized, and made more accurate, but a revolver is going to as accurate as it ever gets right out of the factory. To a large extent, it's true. Barrel quality, dimensions, cylinder chamber alignment and dimensions, forcing cone dimensions, etc are all established with the new revolver in the box. Sure, improvements in sights, smoothing and tuning the action are improvements, but only affect accuracy in a minor way.

It is more productive to work on the best quality ammunition you can produce for top accuracy.
 
Easiest way to improve a 686 is to recrown the barrel, recut the forcing cone to 11 degrees (for lead bullets) and check the crane for correct alignment. If it is out... fix it.
Then measure all the cylinder throats and load bullets that are at least the same size as the largest throat.

I have found that 586 and 686 revolvers tend to shoot lead projectiles in the 148 to 160 grain range very well for Bullseye matches. The RCBS 150 grain Keith semi-wadcutter is a winner in most guns. At target velocities the L frame guns seem to shoot a longer bullet better than shorter ones for some reason.
 
My 686 was very accurate stock. I saw a guy in PPC with a slicked up 66 that had a long, heavy barrel that was aftermarket and very accurate.

For revolvers, there's basically only two accuracy pieces: the barrel and how well the cylinder aligns to the barrel when the bullet launches. That's pretty much it. Ammo variance accounts for most group spread.
 
Originally posted by Twist:
Easiest way to improve a 686 is to recrown the barrel, recut the forcing cone to 11 degrees (for lead bullets) and check the crane for correct alignment. If it is out... fix it.
Then measure all the cylinder throats and load bullets that are at least the same size as the largest throat.

I have found that 586 and 686 revolvers tend to shoot lead projectiles in the 148 to 160 grain range very well for Bullseye matches. The RCBS 150 grain Keith semi-wadcutter is a winner in most guns. At target velocities the L frame guns seem to shoot a longer bullet better than shorter ones for some reason.


If I want to insure the gun is perfect. Who does this kind of work? Thanks All.
Also off topic but what about bullets any out there I just gotta try. So far I have used Speer and Oregon Trail WC
 

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