Improving trigger pull on Mod 39-2

[martyd]

I have 4 questions regarding the trigger pull on a Model 39-2

1 - Can one remove the 1/2 cock notch on the hammer without having an unwanted outcome?

2 - Will removing the 1/2 cock notch on the hammer improve the trigger pull, specifically making it smoother?

3 - Anyway to shorten the excessive trigger slack in single action, giving one a shorter trigger pull for single action?

4 - What additional work on the action would improve the overall operation of the Mod. 39-2

Thank you,
Marty

 

[JohnHL]

I have 4 questions regarding the trigger pull on a Model 39-2

1 - Can one remove the 1/2 cock notch on the hammer without having an unwanted outcome?

No.

The half cock notch is a safety device designed to catch the hammer should it unintentionally fall and strike the unrestrained firing pin.

It could be done safely on the 2nd gen pistols and it was done safely by S&W on the 3rd gen pistols because of the addition of the firing pin safety.

2 - Will removing the 1/2 cock notch on the hammer improve the trigger pull, specifically making it smoother?

It will usually make the double action pull smoother by removing the "hitch" as the sear drags across it.

3 - Anyway to shorten the excessive trigger slack in single action, giving one a shorter trigger pull for single action?

That is what the trigger play spring on the drawbar is for.

If your pistol doesn't have one, or it is broken, install one.

4 - What additional work on the action would improve the overall operation of the Mod. 39-2

Passively, a lot of dry firing.

Actively, polishing the action pieces anywhere they rub, excluding any sear and notch relationships.

Where the sear drags across the hammer face and where the mainspring grinds its way in to the cup are two notable locations for "crunchyness".

Thank you,
Marty

You're welcome!

John

 

[martyd]

Thanks John!

Does the Wolff spring kit make a difference?

Marty

 

[JohnHL]

Thanks John!

Does the Wolff spring kit make a difference?

Marty

While it's seldom a bad idea to replace recoil and magazine springs on a pistol whose "spring age" is undetermined or over 4 years or 4000 rounds, the only spring in the pistol that has a noticeable effect on the trigger pull is the mainspring (hammer spring).

I would not change the mainspring if my pistol was reliably firing my ammo of choice.

Going to a lighter weight mainspring will lower the trigger pull weight, but it could also result in light primer strikes and misfires.

Either Wolff or S&W standard weight springs are recommended.

John

 

[martyd]

Thank you again!

 

[stansdds]

JohnHL has given you outstanding advice, I highly recommend following it.

 

[Steve912]

While it's seldom a bad idea to replace recoil and magazine springs on a pistol whose "spring age" is undetermined or over 4 years or 4000 rounds, the only spring in the pistol that has a noticeable effect on the trigger pull is the mainspring (hammer spring).

No joy with the lighter drawbar springs?

 

[JohnHL]

No joy with the lighter drawbar springs?

Good point, Steve.

The drawbar spring does provide some resistance to the trigger, but in my opinion, its resistance is so small in comparison to the mainspring, and its importance is so large in maintaining the drawbar's hooks relationship with the hammer's notches, that for the sake of reliability, I wouldn't change it.

I would smooth the interface between the drawbar plunger and its bore if I found that to be rough.

That would add smoothness and enhance reliability.

John

 

[WR Moore]

One point about the "excessive SA slack". If you keep the trigger pinned back while riding out the recoil and then, after regaining your sight picture, you allow the trigger to move forward until it resets, you'll find you have minimal slack.

 

[martyd]

Thank you Steve912!

That is very interesting.

I wonder why the trigger slack changes by holding the trigger back after recoil, seems strange?

I will try pulling the DA trigger, gun empty, then jack the slide release trigger after slide goes into battery and see what happens.

I will definitely look into this as well as change my shooting habit.

Marty

 

[JohnHL]

Thank you Steve912!

That is very interesting.

I wonder why the trigger slack changes by holding the trigger back after recoil, seems strange?

I will try pulling the DA trigger, gun empty, then jack the slide release trigger after slide goes into battery and see what happens.

I will definitely look into this as well as change my shooting habit.

Marty

Hi, Marty!

Member Steve912 didn't write that.

Member WR Moore wrote that.

First, when the hammer is cocked on your 39-2 (single action), the trigger should be held to the rear by the trigger play spring.

If your trigger flops froward and backward in the trigger guard when your hammer is cocked, there is a problem with the trigger play spring on the drawbar that needs to be addressed.

Second, the slack in the trigger does NOT change if you hold back on the trigger after the gun fires, and I'm sure Member WR Moore did not mean to imply that.

(As an aside, everyone holds the trigger back when the gun fires.
I doubt there are many people on earth with reflexes so fast that they could consistently release a trigger on a semi-auto pistol before the slide cycled.)

I believe what Member WR Moore was trying to say was if you train yourself to release the trigger (after follow through) to the reset point, instead of releasing the trigger all the way forward, you will be less likely to notice the fore and aft play in the trigger.

WR Moore, correct me if I'm wrong.

John

 

[WR Moore]

John, I'm a little late to respond. Your description of the mechanics of what I was writing about is correct. That does minimize trigger travel.

I'm very familiar with the S&W TDA trigger system and the comments about it. I spent decades as an instructor and I've been amazed at how many people treat the trigger like a hot stove. The finger may have had the trigger all the way back long enough to release the hammer/striker, but often only for microseconds. Among other things, this returns the trigger to the fully forward position, frequently with the back of the trigger finger against the trigger guard. Then the trigger finger has to find the trigger, move it to where the trigger bar engages the sear and can begin the actual trigger press. They then often whine about "trigger slack". Or at least if the trigger finger motion isn't one spastic stab.

One tip I picked up on an instructors board, was a correctional method when you had someone with this problem (you can repeat hold the trigger back till the cows come home and some folks just can't grasp it). That trick is to put your hand over theirs and you manage the trigger for them a few times with their finger under yours. After a few shots, the light bulb generally goes on.