info help on a Model 10

[54rndball]

I have been looking for a .38 and ran into this at a local gun shop. It is in great shape and looks to be in excellent condition. Looking at the Standard Catalog, my guess is this is a late 1960s manufacture. This is a model 10-5 and has a 6" pinned barrel. 01261 is visible inside the hinge and the ser. no. is D25XXX. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[vytoland]

your S&W model 10 was manufactured in 1968,

 

[Retired W4]

The 10-5 came with diamond center stocks and plain checkered stocks, depending on when it was made. Yours was right at the time of the change and those stocks on it look to be original. That's a nice looking gun.

 

[54rndball]

Thanks! There was a little powder residue but it cleaned up very nicely. It wasn't shot much and looks like an almost new gun. With the six inch barrel, it should be great for the range and maybe small game hunting.

 

[mdell49]

Nice looking gun, ENJOY!

 

[JAREDSHS]

beautiful ! Just don't use plus p ammo in it.

 

[bob42]

What is your reason for "no +P" in a model marked S & W?
Bob

 

[KEN L]

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain Dorothy. +P's will be fine in that gun.

 

[JAREDSHS]

use plus p ammo if you like , I am just quoting S&W's answer to my question about using plus p in my model 10-7 made in 1979. I figure since they made the weapon that they ought to know.They said "we do not recommend using plus p in your weapon" This was in an email a few days ago. Now then you fellers do what you all want to with your gun but I for one waited toooo long to find my sweet two inch model 10-7 to take any unnecessary risks.

this response was from "Steve" at S&W on 7/25/13

 

[LEADNUTS]

S&W Mod 10-7 Nickle 2" Barrel

Been reading up on the model 10's and saw the blurb about not using +P rounds. Then I also read elsewhere that the gun could handle them. I picked up gun last night. I can see barrel is tapered. literature in gun box indicates 1977 as date. serial C114140x. very faint turn rings. Story from seller (x-LEO) is he purchased it from a Police LT Detective, bla bla, bla. 3-screw, original wooden grips, NO Police markings that I can see and I took off grips for cleaning and inspection.

question1:
I have seen some serial numbers which begin with a number then a letter for 10-7. Mine is different in that respect, so any ideas or information as to why?

question2:
I will probably use standard .38 special to be safe based upon the information here, unless told otherwise by an expert. Barrel and frame look like they could handle it?

question3:
I have seen prices ranging around 500-700 on similar guns that are minty with box and accessories. I paid 600 as these have become harder to find this nice. I collect guns, so I always appreciate all the care it takes to keep a gun and it's box.

I found a really nice set of stag grips for this gun. Of course it looks equally good in stock wooden grips but these stag grips have the medallions and great figuring to them

 

[Alk8944]

use plus p ammo if you like , I am just quoting S&W's answer to my question about using plus p in my model 10-7 made in 1979. I figure since they made the weapon that they ought to know.They said "we do not recommend using plus p in your weapon" This was in an email a few days ago. Now then you fellers do what you all want to with your gun but I for one waited toooo long to find my sweet two inch model 10-7 to take any unnecessary risks.

this response was from "Steve" at S&W on 7/25/13

I don't question that this has been stated by S&W Customer Service, however it is wrong and nonsensical.

Since ca. 1937 S&W advertised that the .38-44 High Velocity version of .38 Special was acceptable for use in all of its .38 Special revolvers. There were no J-Frame .38 Spl. for years after this date. This cartridge developed pressures ca. 125% of what current +P loadings of the cartridge do. It is absolutely certain that your 10-7 is at least as strong as the revolvers manufactured before WWII.

Standard pressure .38 Spl. has a MAP of from 15,000 to 17,500 PSI depending on whether the measurement is determined by Copper Crusher or Piezo electric guage. .38 Spl. +P has a MAP of from 18,500 to 21,000 PSI depending on the reference and measurement method. The .38-44 loading is generally believed to have developed at least 25,000 PSI crusher. There is no SAAMI standard for the .38-44 load! Some reputable sources of the day believe that .38-44 pressures approached the pressure level of the later developed .357 Magnum!

There was never, to my knowledge and research, been a warning to not use the .38-44 load in a K-Frame S&W or equivalent Colt, but latter day "experts" would have you believe that the same revolvers which can use this load will someway be damaged by ammunition developing 20% or greater LESS pressure.

Now do you understand why the "Dire Warnings" about the .38 Spl. +P make absolutely no sense?

 

[LEADNUTS]

Thanks you must know better than I since I was born in 1961.

I put a picture up there. It's very nice add for my collection and budget.

I will try some +P's just do it sparingly at first and then check things. Last thing I want to do is mess up a perfectly awesome mod 10-7. Appreciate the help too wish my pictures were as nice as this gun shows in hand.

 

[shouldazagged]

S&W customer service has a tendency to lawyer up reflexively in e-mails or on the phone, but especially via e-mail. My four-inch standard (tapered) barrel 10-5, 1967 build, is loaded with the same +P ammo I carry in my EDC J-frame. I practice with standard pressure stuff and shoot a little +P to get the feel of it; but I know I'd have to shoot at least a metric ****-load of +P to damage the guns. (As I'm sure you know, a metric ****-load is much larger than a standard or U.S. ****-load.)

Smith literature quoted elsewhere on this forum says +P can safely be used in a Model 10. So you needn't worry about it.

 

[Simpleminded Rob]

I asked S&W this same question back in the early '70's. In that response, they said "don't use +P much" in my Mod. 10, but they didn't say "don't." So, I have shot +P in it whenever I felt like it, and 30+ years later the revolver remains fine.

 

[Mike McLellan]

Getting back to 59rndball...Your gun is the epitome of S&W engineering. Everything they've learned since building their first revolver is crammed into that revolver. Aside from changes in metalurgy, the S&W revilver has not advanced deyond that point. In my not-so-humble-opinion, you have the finest revolver made in America. Try to find some comfortable, slightly worn-out target grips for it. That will be your favorite shooter.

 

[54rndball]

Thanks all responders. I loaded up some .38 Special rds. with about 3 grains of Bullseye and will take it to the range tomorrow. I saw this at the gun shop and had to have this classic revolver. It is my 3rd S&W revolver, and I like the older classics. I may need a Airweight or Bodyguard next!

 

[Kframerbluvr]

Enjoy your new acquisition! My brother owns one just like it...

 

[SgtLumpy]

Other than the barrel wall thickness, is there any difference in the frame, cylinder or other parts of the gun between those pencil barrel 10s and the taper barrel or bull barrel 10s? Front sight, grips etc., of course may be different. But what about the "meaty" part of the gun?


Sgt Lumpy

 

[deanodog]

Great find.....I love it. I have never ran into a six inch barrel like yours for sale.