Information needed about different frames for a new .357 future buy.

If you are looking to shoot short and long range, the current 5 inch 627 pc is most likely what you seek. Just long enough to aid in longer shots, cut for moonclips for short/quick shooting, as well. It is a Performance Center revolver and does cost a little more —but has a few nice features that would cost more if added individually.
 
Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

The others have answered your question about frames and told you the model options.

I highly recommend you accept LPD256's offer to go for some hands-on practice. Research like what you're doing now is important to arm yourself with information, but there's nothing like handling the various models at the range to help you decide which one(s) work(s) for you.

For perspective, I'm 6'4", a deuce and a half and wear a XXL glove. I'm no linebacker, but...

I carry a J-frame -- Model 640 Pro -- with full-house .357s, and I don't have a problem with recoil or recovery after a shot when I'm on the range. The key is the grips. The tiny rubber grips that come on the modern Smiths don't work for me so I added Karl Nill Centennial grips. Perfect for me, and I don't have a problem concealing it, either.

Now then, I don't shoot any more .357 than I need to stay practiced and proficient with my ccw.

I mainly shoot .38s (not +P) out of older Chiefs Specials (J-frames) and Military & Police models (K-frames) but never out of my ccw (I practice with what I carry).

I have a mid-'50s Highway Patrolman (in 1957 it became the Model 28 the folks mentioned), but I've pretty much relegated it to safe queen status. I don't like the magna grips, and I'm not going to replace them just so I can shoot it. It's my only N-frame.

If I feel a need for power I pull out the 460 or 500. I don't get that urge very often!

Finally I have J and K-frame 9mm revolvers that I thoroughly enjoy shooting.

Variety is the spice of life. Stick around, and we enablers will help you spend more money than you ever imagined.
 

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I like the "L" because you can shoot 357 mag all day long and not worry about beating up the frame. I have a Tall 686+ in 3" and is without a doubt my favorite of all my hand guns period. Just my two cents.
 
Well, we all have our opinions, and I am sure there are more coming, but I will stick with my suggestion of a 6" " N " frame. I do own stainless guns, don't like nickel. If price is a consideration, the Highway Patrolman ( model 28) is a lot of gun for half the cost of a M27. if you like shiny and added features then the M27 is for you.

I like the 28's, basically the same gun( no piece of paper will ever know the difference) AND for just about the same price as a 27, I can have 2 M28's one 4" and one 6". Either way try to find a nice example of either starting with an " S " serial number.

Just my .02
 
I love my Highway Patrolman. With target stocks it really fits my hand. But I always say if you can only have one handgun a 4 inch 686 would be it. (Exclusive of CCW ability.)
 
I know I'm a bit biased, but we are about the same size. I know an N frame is much larger than the J's, K's & L's, but with size comes reduction in recoil and faster follow up shots.

An N frame .357 will never wear out, as it is larger and very strong. N frames are made in .44 Mag and .41 Mag, so they are made to handle powerful rounds. I've yet to see a N frame .357 wear out or get loose.

L frames were made for cops to shoot .357 exclusively, but the frame is not as strong as an N frames though. Recoil with an L frame is about the same, maybe a little more than an N frame. L frames also use a smaller grip than the N and is the same one used on K frames.

K frames were made for .38 Spl/.32-20. K's don't like what a 125 grain load will do to the topstrap, because of cylinder gap flame cutting. There were also stories dating from the 70's that shooting only .357 would cause the gun to "shoot loose". In other words, increasing the gaps and causing the gun to become less tight and thus, sloppy timing, and accelerating wear. K frames also react worse to recoil and follow up shots take longer when using magnums.

.357 J's are a definite handful to shoot. Awful recoil and magnum muzzle blast is awful and takes a
lot of shooting to get used to. In my mind J's are meant to be carried a lot and shot a little.

If you want to shoot a lot of .357 doing; hunting, plinking, bowling pins, personal protection. Get an N frame.

If you want to shoot occaisional .357 for hunting, plinking, bowling pins and personal protection. Get an L frame.

If you mostly want to shoot .38 Spl and occaisional .357, pick a K frame.

If you want to carry a .357 for personal protection and are willing to practice with mostly .38 Spl and a FEW .357 in practice and carry .357, get a J frame.
 
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I know I'm a bit biased, but we are about the same size. I know an N frame is much larger than the J's, K's & L's, but with size comes reduction in recoil and faster follow up shots.

An N frame .357 will never wear out, as it is larger and very strong. N frames are made in .44 Mag and .41 Mag, so they are made to handle powerful rounds. I've yet to see a N frame .357 wear out or get loose.

L frames were made for cops to shoot .357 exclusively, but the frame is not as strong as an N frames though. Recoil with an L frame is about the same, maybe a little more than an N frame. L frames also use a smaller grip than the N and is the same one used on K frames.

K frames were made for .38 Spl/.32-20. K's don't like what a 125 grain load will do to the topstrap, because of cylinder gap flame cutting. There were also stories dating from the 70's that shooting only .357 would cause the gun to "shoot loose". In other words, increasing the gaps and causing the gun to become less tight and thus, sloppy timing, and accelerating wear. K frames also react worse to recoil and follow up shots take longer when using magnums.

.357 J's are a definite handful to shoot. Awful recoil and magnum muzzle blast is awful and takes a
lot of shooting to get used to. In my mind J's are meant to be carried a lot and shot a little.

If you want to shoot a lot of .357 doing; hunting, plinking, bowling pins, personal protection. Get an N frame.

If you want to shoot occaisional .357 for hunting, plinking, bowling pins and personal protection. Get an L frame.

If you mostly want to shoot .38 Spl and occaisional .357, pick a K frame.

If you want to carry a .357 for personal protection and are willing to practice with mostly .38 Spl and a FEW .357 in practice and carry .357, get a J frame.

L frames aren't for "occasional" use of .357 magnum ... mine sees a steady diet of them. That's why S&W made them.
 
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