Instructions for fitting a new extractor

AJR337

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Does anyone have a link to a detailed description or (ideally) a video for how to fit a new extractor?

Specifically, I'm referring to a new style 7 shot 686 extractor.

I have Jerry Kuhnhausen's shop manual but it doesn't describe the process. I searched for/found some information online but nothing that's very detailed.

I understand that it's tedious and requires the right tools (I'm planning to order a a 4" Nicholson, Swiss pattern barrette file, #0 cut) but I'm in need of some instruction.

I've got some experience with fitting other parts like hands, trigger, hammer, cylinder stop, etc. but I've never done an extractor so any guidance would be appreciated.
 
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First the center of the extractor is what sets your head space. Set that first in conjunction with b/c gap if frame already has a barrel. keep it dead flat and smooth. Prussian blue is your friend. Use it. Put some on let it dry a bit. Rotate cylinder on yoke held against recoil shield to make sure it is riding square, I did a brand new never fitted older recessed cylinder once. take a couple passes on each tooth, try it, couple more passes and try it. Usually when a tooth is close the hand will go by but trigger will be hard right at the end as the cylinder locks up and the hand rubs by the tooth. if that happens make one more file pass on that tooth and mark it. Work the rest of the rest teeth until they all go and hand goes by them without making the trigger hard right at the end. You must keep file square so face of tooth is 90 degrees to face of cylinder, I kept I good cylinder right there so I could see I was keeping the profile correct. I wore an Opti visor and went slow. I spend a 1/2 a day at it. Nervous the whole time LOL.
 
This was/is one of the most difficult jobs at the S & W factory, reserved for the most senior and experienced workmen. Personally I would very cautiously choose the best gunsmith possible to do the work, but best of luck taking it on. :)
 
This is usually the case of: "If you have to ask, you shouldn't try it".

Yes, as I previously stated, I understand that it's a tedious process but I get a lot of enjoyment from trying new things.

Also, I have a good understanding of the mechanics, the existing extractor as a reference, and a couple of new extractors so I'm okay with giving it a shot...and if I try and don't succeed, then I could send it out.

And with regards to that quote...personally, it always seemed like a silly thing to say to someone asking for guidance/instruction since even the "best" _______ started with zero knowledge.
 
Perhaps most people advise to use caution here not only because of the difficulty, but because of the expense involved if you make an error. There's a reason why the Kuhnhausen manual doesn't go into the "process".

The S&W armorers manual comes with instructions and illustrations about how to cut and fit ratchets. Unfortunately, there is no experienced instructor included with the manual.:D

If you want to PM me, I would be glad to offer advice if you have specific questions. I have some photographs I can send as well, if needed.

Carter
 
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On the new style extractors, sometimes they are a drop in fit, sometimes not. I would just trade parts first and see where you're at. Usually if any fitting is required, the hand is too wide, so you file the left side of the nose with a diamond file. A regular file won't cut it. Hands are cheap and easy to get.

Don't file the ratchets on the extractor. That's where all the skill comes in. It's super easy to ruin one by making a wrong file cut. Or, if you want to try it, be aware you may need to start over with a new part.

Edit - I have ruined my fair share of parts when I started out. You always pay for your education one way or another.
 
I have done this job only once because I had to - the Revolver would no longer function correctly. While I did use files in the very beginning, I used my Arkansas 3/16 x 3/16", 1/4" x 1/4" and round stones for the most part. I specifically like the Ark. stones because they remove metal very very slowly and leave a very smooth finished surface right off the bat! I checked my work often and used the original as a template but left the new one a little oversized until I got it to work and fit correctly.

The Revolver now works perfectly and I also wound up replacing almost every single internal part including the Hand. This Revolver had belonged to my father and has seen 10's of thousands of rounds through it and was just worn out. Today, it works 100%! :)

I mostly learned by doing - that's what worked for me. I can not and will not advise others to do that - just saying what I did. For better or worse, I am pretty successful with repairs with only a couple of ooppps's along the way.
 
Perhaps most people advise to use caution here not only because of the difficulty, but because of the expense involved if you make an error. There's a reason why the Kuhnhausen manual doesn't go into the "process".

The S&W armorers manual comes with instructions and illustrations about how to cut and fit ratchets. Unfortunately, there is no experienced instructor included with the manual.:D

If you want to PM me, I would be glad to offer advice if you have specific questions. I have some photographs I can send as well, if needed.

Carter

Carter, thank you, I'll follow up in a PM.
 
On the new style extractors, sometimes they are a drop in fit, sometimes not. I would just trade parts first and see where you're at. Usually if any fitting is required, the hand is too wide, so you file the left side of the nose with a diamond file. A regular file won't cut it. Hands are cheap and easy to get.

Don't file the ratchets on the extractor. That's where all the skill comes in. It's super easy to ruin one by making a wrong file cut. Or, if you want to try it, be aware you may need to start over with a new part.

Edit - I have ruined my fair share of parts when I started out. You always pay for your education one way or another.

Thank you, I didn't realize that the new style extractors are potentially a drop in fit. The current extractor appears to have some fitting done but I'll take a closer look.
 
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