Is it easy to distinguish factory ammo versus reloaded ammo?

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Looking at loose packed ammunition (9mm) is it easy to tell factory versus reload? FYI - I am not a reloader so don’t know if anything specific to look for. Thanks.
 
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Check to see if the headstamp on the brass is all the same and matches the manufacturer. If you are buying from a smaller company like Georgia Arms that does not have brass with their own headstamp you have to take their word for whether the brass is new or used. But it should be consistent.

My solution is to never buy loose packed ammo and only buy from a store or distributor I trust. There does not seem to be a noticeable price break on loose packed ammo from the big manufacturers if you are buying by the case.
 
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Reloaded ammo can often be spotted in a bag just from the mix of headstamps and condition of the brass...Handloaded ammo from new brass might be more difficult to distinguish...It pays to know your vendor...:rolleyes:...Ben
 
I've been reloading for 50+ years .
Sometimes it is easy to spot reloads by the resized case .
On some cases the marks left by the sizing die are clearly visible .
Other times the cases have been well polished ... after resizing and marks are harder to see .
Bullets may be a giveaway . Packaging ...zip lock bags and loose ammo in a plastic food container / ammo box is a giveaway .
Look for Mixed head stamps on the cases .
Another tip-off ... Cost ... if it's dirt cheap ... It is probably reloads .
If you don't reload ... you might have a hard time spotting reloaded ammo . If you can ... look at some advertised / known reloads and get a feel for what they look like ...
Look at factory ammo also and learn what it looks like ... Knowledge is a Powerful Thing !
Gary
 
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Brass and primers are the first tells, plus the bullets.

Factory primers are generally seated consistently and precisely with no distortions or marks. Many reloads will show varying seating pressure causing noticeable flattening and/or marks on the primer metal from the seating tool.

Cases:
--mixed headstamps
--headstamps uneven or flattened looking
--very highly polished (jewel-like appearance) indicates probable reloading with tumble-polishing beyond what would be seen on factory loads
--visible longitudinal lines or striations on the case walls; sometimes left by resizing dies
--noticeable bulge forward of the case head; this area is seldom contained in the resizing die and frequently noticeable on reloaded ammo
--noticeable bulging at the base of the seated bullet; many sizing dies reduce case necks to minimum which results in some visible bulging when a bullet is forced into seated position
--wasp-waste appearance of the case; many semi-auto cases (9mm, 40, 45, others) have a tapered case profile, but carbide sizer dies reduce the diameter equally from case mouth to web, then seating the bullet forces the case mouth to widen significantly during bullet seating.

Bullets:
--visible ring marking on the nose or along the tapered forward portion; caused by imprecisely shaped seating stem during the force of seating
--jacketed soft point or jacketed hollow point bullets may show some displacement of exposed lead at the nose; caused by imprecisely shaped seating stem during seating
--cast bullets will show a mold line over the nose and down both sides; very few (if any) factory ammo uses case bullets.

I've been reloading for 52 years and my own show some or all of these tells.
 
I traded some unwanted 380 ammo for another caliber… the guy claimed they were reloads because the box had two different colors of primers (silver and gold). But I bought the dang box myself from Cabellas, so I know it was factory!
 
There are numerous clues between re-loaded and factory ammunition. They are generally well defined if you know what to look for. The biggest tell is the shape of the cartridge case as most re-loading dies do not size clear to the rim which leaves an obvious, although sometimes faint, ring around the case just above the rim or extractor groove that won't be there on factory ammunition.
 
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