IS THERE A EASY FIX FOR SLOW TIMING FOR A K-FRAME ?

oldrookey617

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I think the timing is just a little slow on a couple of my S&W revolvers, M617 & M637.. is there a easy Miricale fix for that issue ? and they are fairly new, will they wear in worse or be better ? will it get slower or faster timing the more it's been used, or will a old wore out revolver have slow or fast timing ? or just live with it, thanks for any info..
 
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1) Buy oversized hand
2) Put it in revolver
3) Test timing
4) File width of new hand
5) Repeat steps 2-4 until timing is fixed

How "Easy" it is depends on your skill level, but personally I think it's one of the easier revolversmithing jobs (assuming nothing else is wrong)
 
I think the timing is just a little slow on a couple of my S&W revolvers, M617 & M637.. is there a easy Miricale fix for that issue ? and they are fairly new, will they wear in worse or be better ? will it get slower or faster timing the more it's been used, or will a old wore out revolver have slow or fast timing ? or just live with it, thanks for any info..

What are YOU calling slow timing? Please describe the symptoms.

Kevin
 
StrawHat, pulling the hammer back slowly in single-action, do not hear that 2nd click, can just touch the cylinder to the left, it will click-in, pull the hammer back fairly fast, it locks-in, it is leading up some around the forcing cone, should I leave it a loan ?
 
StrawHat, pulling the hammer back slowly in single-action, do not hear that 2nd click, can just touch the cylinder to the left, it will click-in, pull the hammer back fairly fast, it locks-in, it is leading up some around the forcing cone, should I leave it a loan ?

Okay, got it. I am a double action shooter. Never understood the allure of single action on S&W revolvers. Just me.

If this were a Colt or Colt style single action revolver, I would say your hand is too short. Easy fix? I would tell you to pull that hammer back faster.

Since it is a S&W revolver, easy fix? Pull that hammer back faster or learn how to shoot double action.

Kevin
 
This condition is called DCU by S&W and stands for “doesn’t carry up.” The repair is to fit a new, wider, hand. It is the width of the hand that affects carry-up timing, not the length. When fitting a wider hand, the width of the hand is not adjusted. Instead, if a wider hand causes some charge holes to bind, the fitting is done by adjusting the longer ratchets by very judicious filing. Working on the ratchets is one of the most sensitive fitting tasks on a S&W revolver. Fixing DCU is a standard skill that was taught at the S&W revolver school when I attended many years ago. It requires some skill to do properly but when done well is a solid repair.
 
Yes. Remove the hand from the trigger and tap to bend the larger pin on the hand very slightly towards the tip, reinstall and test. This will pull the hand closer to the ratchet and allow the cylinder to lock up sooner.

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I'll also note that the revolver is supposed to be tested for DCU with action-proving dummies, which are similar to the weight of loaded rounds. The cylinder is designed to carry up properly when loaded... at least that what I was taught at S&W. Perhaps in a .22 rimfire the difference is not significant.
 
I'll also note that the revolver is supposed to be tested for DCU with action-proving dummies, which are similar to the weight of loaded rounds. The cylinder is designed to carry up properly when loaded... at least that what I was taught at S&W. Perhaps in a .22 rimfire the difference is not significant.

Correct - the momentum of the weight of even empty brass can affect the cylinder rotation - and also, cock the gun like you mean it - which means no sneaking up on the next notch just to see if it does not catch. Operate the revolver in the manner in which it was designed.
 
The main point of having rounds or empty brass in the chamber is to make sure that the extractor is properly timed rotationally. On guns with a lot of wear, the extractor can have a good bit of CW and CCW movement. The brass in the chambers will restrict that movement.
 
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For such new revolvers it sounds like some warranty work should be done by the factory.

Stainless is softer than carbon steel and more susceptible to this problem.

Miracle fix:
Gunsmith manuals recommend lightly peening the rear surface of the extractor star teeth with a small flat tip punch.
That will “upset” (meaning move metal) to the bottom surface of the teeth that the hand contacts so it can rotate the cylinder ever so slightly more to speed up the timing.

It’s a 2 minute fix, just be gentle.
 
The main point of having rounds or empty brass in the chamber is to make sure that the extractor is properly timed rotationally. On guns with a lot of wear, the extractor can have a good bit or CW and CCW movement. The brass in the chambers will restrict that movement.

I never thought of that, makes so much sense!
 
Correct - the momentum of the weight of even empty brass can affect the cylinder rotation - and also, cock the gun like you mean it - which means no sneaking up on the next notch just to see if it does not catch. Operate the revolver in the manner in which it was designed.

Here is the answer. Quit playing games and cock the hammer.

Kevin
 
An imperfectly functioning gun is not a stable condition.

At some point the wear or misfit can only get worse, not better. When will that happen? Is it a defense gun?

It’s too simple to fix, not to.
 
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