Is there any bad ammo for a .357 revolver?

[SWBigBang]

Need to purchase some .357 ammo simply for "plinking".
Not interested in using .38 special.

Don't have to really worry about feeding and extraction issues with a revolver.

There is a brand named Fusion which never heard before.

Can I simply buy the cheapest factory stuff out there since its a revolver?

 

[murphydog]

It depends on the load and gun. For plinking, the least expensive (probably 158 gr FMJ) .357 load should be fine. Heavy use of full 125 gr .357s in lighter guns will put extra stress on them, and in some instances has led to cracked forcing cones in K frames.

 

[minconrevo]

Referencing use of full charge .357 magnum ammo, it's hard to break an L-frame. N frames are tough too. Its a bit easier to break a K-frame with bullet weights other than 158 gr. J-frames are flat unpleasant to shoot with full charge .357 mags.

Any revolver can be blown up with factory defective ammo. This is a stellarly rare occurrence, still its exciting when it happens. Stay with major known brands IMO.

 

[CTG_COLLECTOR]

Need to purchase some .357 ammo simply for "plinking".
Not interested in using .38 special.

Don't have to really worry about feeding and extraction issues with a revolver.

There is a brand named Fusion which never heard before.

Can I simply buy the cheapest factory stuff out there since its a revolver?

"Fusion" ammo you refer to is Federal's Fusion 158JHP which is a bonded bullet (the copper jacket is electrochemically bonded to the lead core) hunting load.

You should be safe with any factory loaded ammo. I suggest that you stay away from any and all hand loaded ammo and use remanufactured ammo at your own risk.

 

[DWalt]

Uh.... Why no interest in using cheaper .38 Special target loads? That's what the great majority of .357 revolver shooters use when shooting paper and tin cans, either that or light .357 lead bullet reloads. Not only much cheaper, but also less wear and tear on the revolver and the shooter.

 

[minconrevo]

Uh.... Why no interest in using cheaper .38 Special target loads? That's what the great majority of .357 revolver shooters use when shooting paper and tin cans, either that or light .357 lead bullet reloads. Not only much cheaper, but also less wear and tear on the revolver and the shooter.

I much enjoy the .38's too. Still there are times, abeit few for me, that I need/want to shoot the full .357 magnums. Some individuals really enjoy the magnums. That's okay to enjoy for them too, in my book.

 

[badguybuster]

Why stay away from remanufactured ammo? I use RAM with great success

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Like said above, you can safely shoot any factory ammo in your .357 Magnum revolver as long as your revolver is in good operating condition.

Federal Fusion ammo is very good ammo and more than a plinking load with that premium bullet it carries. Other ammo you might see that's good for plinking because of it's lower price is Fiocchi 142gr FMJ, Independence JSP ammo and American Eagle ammo. (also by Federal) PMC ammo is also a good choice when it can be found.

 

[The Tourist]

Heavy use of full 125 gr .357s in lighter guns will put extra stress on them, and in some instances has led to cracked forcing cones in K frames.

While I no longer shoot the volume of loads I did when younger, I have worried about this with lighter/faster ammunition of modern manufacture.

For example, I remember the "Super Vel" era. I also remember flame cutting on the top straps above the forcing cones.

I also noticed that my new .357 has a warning on the barrel, "NO LESS THAN 120 GR BULLET." There is also a metal insert above the forcing cone that appears to protect the alloy frame.

Granted, manufacturers will play CYA on their products, and most of the flame cutting issues only occurred on high use firearms. But as companies compete by offering enhanced performance, I do wonder what it is doing to the firearms.

 

[silentflyer]

I have good luck with the Georgia Arms 158 grain. SWC's about 41$ for 100.

 

[dryfarmer]

I find Fiocchi to be good clean, and cheap ammo.

 

[WR Moore]

Black Hills makes excellent remanufactured ammo at better prices than stuff made with new brass.

Back when I shot the occasional revolver in practical matches, I found CCI aluminum case .357 to be good stuff at good prices. Haven't looked at prices lately.

If you're just plinking, maybe look for what might pass for mid-range stuff.

 

[Engineer1911]

To reduce the cost of ammo and increase the quantity of ammo fired, consider reloading. WARNING: I said nothing about saving money, but you will shoot a lot more.

 

[blujax01]

...
You should be safe with any factory loaded ammo. I suggest that you stay away from any and all hand loaded ammo ....

The millions of us who load our own rounds would argue that point! One of the reasons I hand load is the outrageous markup on purchased ammunition.

 

[blujax01]

Uh.... Why no interest in using cheaper .38 Special target loads? That's what the great majority of .357 revolver shooters use when shooting paper and tin cans, either that or light .357 lead bullet reloads. Not only much cheaper, but also less wear and tear on the revolver and the shooter.

"The great majority"?

Data please...

 

[David LaPell]

I would be a bit squeamish about pounding through some of my really hot handloads in a J-frame.