Is there any secret formula for preserving your firearms?

riptrack44

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
274
Reaction score
2
Location
Nebraska
I'm talking about long term storage. Aside from regular oiling and cleaning (if that's impossible), what would you recommend to fend off rust and other meanies attacking the fine finish and metal of your firearms? We all know moisture is a killer for sure. Most of the moisture solutions I've seen only last for a short time then they need to be rejuvinated. I suppose there's always cosmoline (sp?). Any suggestions?
 
Register to hide this ad
I'm talking about long term storage. Aside from regular oiling and cleaning (if that's impossible), what would you recommend to fend off rust and other meanies attacking the fine finish and metal of your firearms? We all know moisture is a killer for sure. Most of the moisture solutions I've seen only last for a short time then they need to be rejuvinated. I suppose there's always cosmoline (sp?). Any suggestions?
 
put some of those moisture absorbing packets around your firearms
 
Originally posted by John Bartlett:
I have used RIG for many years. It has always presereved my guns and seems to last an awful long time.
Who all carries RIG? Brownell's doesn't.
 
I was told by one of the biggest war time 1911 collectors,,, Remove grips, dip into ATF,,, The where he stows them away I dont know, but he swears by ATF
 
I have a friend who is a retired detective from Miami who cleans and preserves all his guns for over 20 years by soaking them in transmission fluid.
 
I always use Strikehold for cleaning and lubing and use car wax on my blue guns and Mothers or Flitz on my stainless.
 
I have been using Renaissance wax polish and it works good for me here in Florida.
 
Some of my dad's guns from the 1940's and 1950's are still around in my possession. Some of them are from the 1880's.

My dad and I have always just wiped them down with gun oil (blued) or wiped them clean (nickel/stainless) and put them in the safe in their zippered cases. I have a Goldenrod dehumidifier plugged into my safe.

I like to put an oiled patch down the bores of the guns I don't plan on shooting for a year or longer.

Every couple years I wipe them all down again. It keeps me "in touch" with my guns too.

No rust, no problems of any kind so far.
 
I do eggzackly the same as mm6mm6,
and have for years. I agree with
the sentiment of "staying in touch".
icon_wink.gif
 
RIG is available at both the Sportsman's Warehouse locations in my city. Just saw it a week ago. It comes in tiny 3 or 4 oz. plastic screw-top canisters. They were something like $5 per can. Kind of expensive, but it's good stuff and it goes pretty far. I've also heard people swear by using Vasiline in place of RIG or Cosmoline for preserving against rust. I've been toying with the idea myself....but no decision yet on my part because I'm afraid of having to clean off all that crap when I get around to shooting whatever gun I coated with the stuff. My main concern beyond that is that you really can't coat the whole thing with RIG or like products....you'll always have internal parts that are impossible to get at.....so I kind of like the "ATF dip" method and I think I'll give it a try on a single gun first and see how it is after a while before I do more.
 
V.P.I. paper is a superior way to protect guns without them dripping in oil or grease (that's why the gun industry ships guns in their boxes with VPI paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor).

A simple wipe with a very light coat of Dexron II or III and wrapping in VPI will work fine. Do NOT have your guns dripping with oil and grease. Further, dipping a revolver in auto trans fluid will keep it rust free but you will have to dismantle the gun the get all of the oil out of it. It's NOT a good idea.

My opinion only...

Dale53
 
I wipe down with Barricade "birchwood product" every 6 month's. I have goldenrods in the safes and I also put in DriZair granuals. All guns are out of box and in very humide climate."Seattle" Never had a spot of rust on a single gun. I put Drizair in several small cans and change every 2 months.
 
A good wax job will work just as good. Oil sucks up water, just put a drop of each together and go back in a day and check it. It will turn white. Just like your car, it will roll off. THINK WAX = MOTHER'S MAG WAX, better than that inport junk.
 
ATF has changed quite a bit over twenty years. Starting out as a whale oil product, and some of the latest being synthetic or blends. I'm not sure that ATF has anti-corrosion protection as one of it's priorties. I use Birchwood-Casey Barricade, it leaves a film on the surface. For truely long-term, high humidity storage it will be the hidden parts that will really need protection. This will probably require submersion so that the hard to get to areas are coated.
 
I probably overkill in this area. I use a goldenrod in the safe along with dessicent. Each pistol/revolver is coated lightly on the inside with corrision X and wiped down on the outside with RIG. They are then inserted in bore stores. Check them about every 6 months or so. Never had a problem but then I take allot of precautions.
 
Ya know, over the years I've bought and sold a few guns. I've even handled a couple more that I didn't buy.

What never ceases to amaze me is the good condition some are in after 50 years, 75, and even 100 years. They didn't have any of these wonder products back then, nor were they needed to make a gun last 100 years. Ever wonder what the big secret was?

I'll give up a few clues. First, clean the darn thing when you get done shooting it. Cleaning doesn't amount to a cursory wipe down with an already dirty old rag. We're talking about an old fashioned cleaning, using a powder solvent like Hoppe's #9, or a quality powder solvent. Then when a clean rag with some of those products remains clean when you wipe off the gun, and a patch down the bore and cylinder holes is also clean, oil the thing. Yes, any gun specific oil is good. Some might be marginally better than others, but I doubt it. My current favorites are RemOil or CLP, but those aren't magic, just oils I use. And in all fairness, I try to inspect my guns fairly regularly. That doesn't require a full cleaning, but it does include another layer of oil.

Yes, I'm bad and if I know a gun will be in storage for a while, I tend to slather a bit too much of the CLP "Collectors" on. Big deal. I can always clean it off again. Powder solvent also tends to cut it like warm butter.

Other tricks: My now deceased gun buddy, John, taught me how to oil up an engraved gun. He didn't care about the specific oil, either. His method was what was interesting. He used a soft, camel hair brush (I've heard its really squirrel hair.) He'd drip a bit more than he should on the surface, then just use the brush to smear it everywhere. The beauty of the system is that it got oil into every engraved crack, and also into places that a oily patch might miss.

It doesn't take a lot of time or skill, just interest. It does take more time than ignoring a dirty gun.

Ever wonder how guns sit in thier factory boxes for literally decades and come out looking like new? They were oiled, clean, and in a dry place.

You can improve on that just a little by bagging your now pristine and lubed up treasure. I use brand name ZipLock bags, the big ones like 1 gallon. They're thicker than economy discount house brands. Zipped shut, they tend to exclude air and moisture. Better still, bugs don't crawl into things slathered with smelly oil. They seemingly aren't interested in chewing into plastic.

If you live in a locale that has some unique features, like the gulf coast, or along a mighty river that might flood, you may need to use some common sense. I know thats hard to find these days, but look for it. Things like tupperware will hold in all kinds of food. It'll also hold out water, bacteria, mold and other things.

So you've got a smelly, oiled up gun in a ziplock bag, stuffed into an air and waterproof container. What's going to get your gun if its not a smelly, oily politician?
 
Back
Top