Is there any secret formula for preserving your firearms?

riptrack44

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
274
Reaction score
2
Location
Nebraska
I'm talking about long term storage. Aside from regular oiling and cleaning (if that's impossible), what would you recommend to fend off rust and other meanies attacking the fine finish and metal of your firearms? We all know moisture is a killer for sure. Most of the moisture solutions I've seen only last for a short time then they need to be rejuvinated. I suppose there's always cosmoline (sp?). Any suggestions?
 
Register to hide this ad
I'm talking about long term storage. Aside from regular oiling and cleaning (if that's impossible), what would you recommend to fend off rust and other meanies attacking the fine finish and metal of your firearms? We all know moisture is a killer for sure. Most of the moisture solutions I've seen only last for a short time then they need to be rejuvinated. I suppose there's always cosmoline (sp?). Any suggestions?
 
put some of those moisture absorbing packets around your firearms
 
Originally posted by John Bartlett:
I have used RIG for many years. It has always presereved my guns and seems to last an awful long time.
Who all carries RIG? Brownell's doesn't.
 
I was told by one of the biggest war time 1911 collectors,,, Remove grips, dip into ATF,,, The where he stows them away I dont know, but he swears by ATF
 
I have a friend who is a retired detective from Miami who cleans and preserves all his guns for over 20 years by soaking them in transmission fluid.
 
I always use Strikehold for cleaning and lubing and use car wax on my blue guns and Mothers or Flitz on my stainless.
 
I have been using Renaissance wax polish and it works good for me here in Florida.
 
Some of my dad's guns from the 1940's and 1950's are still around in my possession. Some of them are from the 1880's.

My dad and I have always just wiped them down with gun oil (blued) or wiped them clean (nickel/stainless) and put them in the safe in their zippered cases. I have a Goldenrod dehumidifier plugged into my safe.

I like to put an oiled patch down the bores of the guns I don't plan on shooting for a year or longer.

Every couple years I wipe them all down again. It keeps me "in touch" with my guns too.

No rust, no problems of any kind so far.
 
I do eggzackly the same as mm6mm6,
and have for years. I agree with
the sentiment of "staying in touch".
icon_wink.gif
 
RIG is available at both the Sportsman's Warehouse locations in my city. Just saw it a week ago. It comes in tiny 3 or 4 oz. plastic screw-top canisters. They were something like $5 per can. Kind of expensive, but it's good stuff and it goes pretty far. I've also heard people swear by using Vasiline in place of RIG or Cosmoline for preserving against rust. I've been toying with the idea myself....but no decision yet on my part because I'm afraid of having to clean off all that crap when I get around to shooting whatever gun I coated with the stuff. My main concern beyond that is that you really can't coat the whole thing with RIG or like products....you'll always have internal parts that are impossible to get at.....so I kind of like the "ATF dip" method and I think I'll give it a try on a single gun first and see how it is after a while before I do more.
 
V.P.I. paper is a superior way to protect guns without them dripping in oil or grease (that's why the gun industry ships guns in their boxes with VPI paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor).

A simple wipe with a very light coat of Dexron II or III and wrapping in VPI will work fine. Do NOT have your guns dripping with oil and grease. Further, dipping a revolver in auto trans fluid will keep it rust free but you will have to dismantle the gun the get all of the oil out of it. It's NOT a good idea.

My opinion only...

Dale53
 
I wipe down with Barricade "birchwood product" every 6 month's. I have goldenrods in the safes and I also put in DriZair granuals. All guns are out of box and in very humide climate."Seattle" Never had a spot of rust on a single gun. I put Drizair in several small cans and change every 2 months.
 
A good wax job will work just as good. Oil sucks up water, just put a drop of each together and go back in a day and check it. It will turn white. Just like your car, it will roll off. THINK WAX = MOTHER'S MAG WAX, better than that inport junk.
 
ATF has changed quite a bit over twenty years. Starting out as a whale oil product, and some of the latest being synthetic or blends. I'm not sure that ATF has anti-corrosion protection as one of it's priorties. I use Birchwood-Casey Barricade, it leaves a film on the surface. For truely long-term, high humidity storage it will be the hidden parts that will really need protection. This will probably require submersion so that the hard to get to areas are coated.
 
I probably overkill in this area. I use a goldenrod in the safe along with dessicent. Each pistol/revolver is coated lightly on the inside with corrision X and wiped down on the outside with RIG. They are then inserted in bore stores. Check them about every 6 months or so. Never had a problem but then I take allot of precautions.
 
Ya know, over the years I've bought and sold a few guns. I've even handled a couple more that I didn't buy.

What never ceases to amaze me is the good condition some are in after 50 years, 75, and even 100 years. They didn't have any of these wonder products back then, nor were they needed to make a gun last 100 years. Ever wonder what the big secret was?

I'll give up a few clues. First, clean the darn thing when you get done shooting it. Cleaning doesn't amount to a cursory wipe down with an already dirty old rag. We're talking about an old fashioned cleaning, using a powder solvent like Hoppe's #9, or a quality powder solvent. Then when a clean rag with some of those products remains clean when you wipe off the gun, and a patch down the bore and cylinder holes is also clean, oil the thing. Yes, any gun specific oil is good. Some might be marginally better than others, but I doubt it. My current favorites are RemOil or CLP, but those aren't magic, just oils I use. And in all fairness, I try to inspect my guns fairly regularly. That doesn't require a full cleaning, but it does include another layer of oil.

Yes, I'm bad and if I know a gun will be in storage for a while, I tend to slather a bit too much of the CLP "Collectors" on. Big deal. I can always clean it off again. Powder solvent also tends to cut it like warm butter.

Other tricks: My now deceased gun buddy, John, taught me how to oil up an engraved gun. He didn't care about the specific oil, either. His method was what was interesting. He used a soft, camel hair brush (I've heard its really squirrel hair.) He'd drip a bit more than he should on the surface, then just use the brush to smear it everywhere. The beauty of the system is that it got oil into every engraved crack, and also into places that a oily patch might miss.

It doesn't take a lot of time or skill, just interest. It does take more time than ignoring a dirty gun.

Ever wonder how guns sit in thier factory boxes for literally decades and come out looking like new? They were oiled, clean, and in a dry place.

You can improve on that just a little by bagging your now pristine and lubed up treasure. I use brand name ZipLock bags, the big ones like 1 gallon. They're thicker than economy discount house brands. Zipped shut, they tend to exclude air and moisture. Better still, bugs don't crawl into things slathered with smelly oil. They seemingly aren't interested in chewing into plastic.

If you live in a locale that has some unique features, like the gulf coast, or along a mighty river that might flood, you may need to use some common sense. I know thats hard to find these days, but look for it. Things like tupperware will hold in all kinds of food. It'll also hold out water, bacteria, mold and other things.

So you've got a smelly, oiled up gun in a ziplock bag, stuffed into an air and waterproof container. What's going to get your gun if its not a smelly, oily politician?
 
Grant Cunningham, an excellent high grade revolver smith, has this to say about lubrication and preservatives:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Probably the best article I have read ANYWHERE on this topic.

I'd like to add a personal observation in support of his comments.

I was a practicing Insurance Claims Rep for thirty years. I have seen many, many engines torn down. I raced motorcyles for ten years and did all of my own maintenance including complete overhauls. Motor oil, even the good ones, have little rust preventative value.

ATF has WONDERFUL rust preventative values (I have seen the interior of many automatic transmissions and without exception they were rust free). The parts in an auto transmission are in a terrible environment regarding potential formation of rust. Extremes of hot and cold, the potential, daily, of condensation and yet ATF keeps those parts in gleaming condition for thousands upon thousands of miles.

Read Grant's article. I have several times and I believe that he knows what he is talking about.

Dale53
 
The following is a description of Break-Free Collector Fluid:
______________________________

Collector Liquid provides a protective coating against rust and corrosion on metal to metal finishes; no need to remove before use.

Developed for military use to protect weapons for up to 5 years in storage.
Exceeds military requirements for rust and corrosion protection.
Unique 100% synthetic oil formulation with multiple high performance anti-rust and corrosion inhibitors.
Will not break down to form waxy residues under heat or with age. Contains no wax or mineral oil.
Protects up to five years. Lab test results show over 1,200 hours of rust and corrosion protection on mild steel panels when exposed to 100% humidity at 93 degrees with out developing even one micro of rust.
Does not have to be removed before firing; always "grab and go" combat ready condition.
Safe for use on all metals and finishes.
Ideal to protect gun collections, knives, swords, and sports equipment. Perfect for museums and police armories.
______________________________

Clay
 
There have been many good suggestions here. The most important things to remember are:
- Avoid high humidity/moisture areas, such as rooms with a shower or bathtub (master bedrooms).
- If you can't avoid storing guns near humidity, keep the guns enclosed - safe, tupperware, gun sock.
- Store your guns clean!

My S.O.P. is to clean the gun thoroughly and oil the action. The exterior can be wiped down with any quality oil or ATF or you can remove the oils (isopropyl alcohol works) and wax the gun with Johnson's paste wax, Flitz rifle/gun wax or carnuba wax. Avoid automotive products as they often contain a fine abrasive "polish".

Once cleaned and protected, slip the gun into a Bore Store(tm). These fine products are silicon impregnated synthetic cloth designed to let moisture escape. Before closing the bore store, insert a VCI (vapor corrosion inhibitor) strip inside along with the gun. These strips slowly emit a vapor that inhibits formation of rust. Warehouses have used these for decades to prevent rust on metal parts.

If you have a safe, keep in mind that often times it's cooler inside the safe than outside. When you open the safe in humid weather, moisture flows in and will begin to condense on surfaces. Covered guns are protected. Exposed guns can be protected by a couple of VCI strips placed nearby.

VCI strips http://www.theinhibitor.com
 
I wipe them down with RIG or Rusteprufe (I've used Rusteprufe more than anything) bore, cylinders and all then wrap them loosly in parchment paper or wax paper and in thier box or a gun rug. Stored in a safe with a Goldenrod, I have never had a hint of rust.

I am really paranoid about a gun being in contact with any cloth. I had a really well cleaned and lubed gun rust in a couple weeks becasue it was wrapped in a flannel cloth. It apparently acted as a sponge for any moisture in the air.

This stuff is really good, and, seems to be kind of unknown. You might want to try it, goes on like an oil, the carrier evaporates and it leaves a thin greasy film. http://www.rusteprufe.com/
 
Lots of great info! I finally scored some RIG and the transmission fluid has got me interested too.
 
If you google Ed's Red, you may come up with the formula. The problem is that it makes up a huge quantity, even if not expensive. I think they call the mix a bi-polar kind of thing, with one of the ingredients being ATF and another being acetone or similar solvent. As I understand the homebrew, its a mixture that if one of the elements doesn't solve a problem the next one will.

I don't like having ATF on a gun that I'm carrying against my clothing. Even if you carry it in a holster, the leather will soon become saturated with the stuff. It then seems to catch and hold any grit or dirt. I prefer my carry guns to be moderately dry. Thats why some of us wax our guns, and others of use products that protect but dry. Sure, those require reapplication of protectants, but its costs less than having your shirt soaked in oil and stink, too.

The moral to this story is we have different products and opinions on things. Just like some folks drive Ferds, others Chevy's. I've heard there are city men that even drive cars and not trucks! Say it ain't so!
icon_smile.gif


Regardless, storage solvents and protectants are different from the best for other purposes.

With a gallon of Eds Red, you can immerse any new gun you buy, or any old gun that needs care. Just soak it overnight with the grips off. It'll save you a bunch of time and effort in cleaning it. But its messy until you get the crap off, and you won't want to handle it a lot until you do.

Another protectant and lubricant is Mobil 1 auto engine oil. Its slick stuff. If you know anyone that uses it (no one can afford to pay to have it put in), have them save you the empty jugs. You can stand them on the top and it drains for a day or two. 5 or 6 quart bottles will give you over a years supply of oil for free. But it still will mess up your clothes and holsters.
 
Originally posted by Dale53:
V.P.I. paper is a superior way to protect guns without them dripping in oil or grease (that's why the gun industry ships guns in their boxes with VPI paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor).


I use the same stuff, as do many firearm manufacturers and the military. It is also known as VCI (Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor) paper. Simply wipe the gun down with any good quality gun oil and wrap it in VCI paper, put it in a cardboard box, and store it in your safe. Serious collectors have been using this method for years. It's no secret formula or black magic. VCI paper is available from Brownell's, or at providers like Uline. I bought a huge roll (lifetime supply) for $40. It's a good investment for expensive firearms.
 
I have read all this info and I'm getting very interested (nigh excited) about trying something new to help preserve my treasured goodies that I really never shoot (ie, my safe queens---or at least they are safe queens to me). I'm guessing lots of us have at least one that would fall into that category.

What do you think about this idea...obviously for all metal guns (no plastic parts on my guns other than a few grip panels)...

Remove grips and do the full submersion bath in ATF, then let it drain for a while (probably over night suspended over a drain pan). Then store wrapped up in wax paper and in a Zip Lock bag, inside the safe (possibly inside the gun's box--don't forget that Zip Lock, maybe even double or triple bagged!).

If, and when you are going to use that gun some day...or hand it down to your grand kid on his 16th birthday, etc....Take said gun out of it's nest and give it an over night bath in Kerosene and let it drain again over night. Lube the necessary parts with light oil and give it a nice light rub down with light oil and you're ready to go. Has any one out there tried this method or something similar to it? If so, I'd love to hear about it!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top