Is this a called Hand Ejector? Did I overpay? PICS added
- Thread starter Avery11
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Avery11
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Lee,
Let me read back to see if I got it. You may need to write it with a crayon.
1. The grips could not be correct because they came after the hammer mark and mushroom knob were dropped from the model.
2. The hammer and trigger are original and may indicate little use or no indication at all - just enjoy them.
3. The gun has been refinished - is it because of the clues I mentioned, or do you have other reasons for your assessment?
Thank you all. This is a long thread for such a cheap, insignificant gun. A real testament to the quality of folks who are willing to teach ANOTHER novice. I'm sure it gets old to you but it's new to me and I very much appreciate your time.
Let me read back to see if I got it. You may need to write it with a crayon.
1. The grips could not be correct because they came after the hammer mark and mushroom knob were dropped from the model.
2. The hammer and trigger are original and may indicate little use or no indication at all - just enjoy them.
3. The gun has been refinished - is it because of the clues I mentioned, or do you have other reasons for your assessment?
Thank you all. This is a long thread for such a cheap, insignificant gun. A real testament to the quality of folks who are willing to teach ANOTHER novice. I'm sure it gets old to you but it's new to me and I very much appreciate your time.
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handejector
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1. Grips are from 30's, gun is 27, 28, MAYBE 29 at latest. Serial number would help.
grips are short- see bottom of frame.
2. Yep.
3. Buffed logo. "soft edges" here and there. still possibly a factory job, but bad pics make it hard to tell. check under grips when you get it. the logo clinched it and I quit looking hard.
The gun is a "38 M&P" to factory. "1905-4th Change" to collectors.
Any S&W with a swing out cyl is a "hand ejector". A few guns have the term in the model name- "32 Hand Ejector".
grips are short- see bottom of frame.
2. Yep.
3. Buffed logo. "soft edges" here and there. still possibly a factory job, but bad pics make it hard to tell. check under grips when you get it. the logo clinched it and I quit looking hard.
The gun is a "38 M&P" to factory. "1905-4th Change" to collectors.
Any S&W with a swing out cyl is a "hand ejector". A few guns have the term in the model name- "32 Hand Ejector".
If you think you did badly, look around and see what the grips on your gun are selling for on this forum.
Subtract that from what you paid for the gun and you'll find you got a nice old gun purty cheap.
It's got a lot good hours of entertainment left in it. Enjoy that ol rascal.
Subtract that from what you paid for the gun and you'll find you got a nice old gun purty cheap.
It's got a lot good hours of entertainment left in it. Enjoy that ol rascal.
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Avery11
US Veteran
Iggy, I gotta ask. Is that really you in the avatar photo? If so, you're the coolest lookin dude on this forum.
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Avery11
US Veteran
Iggy's beard is made of Kevlar...and he hides a .44 in there!
fat tom
Absent Comrade
Somebody who shall remain nameless sent me this recent pic of Iggy. 
f.t.
f.t.
I'd say Lee, with his usual attention to detail, has nailed it. I'd add that with this first acquisition, there are two lessons to be learned:
1 - Holding a gun in your hand generally yields better results than relying at fuzzy auction photos.
2 - Look at and handle enough guns so that anomalies are easily spotted.
Since those stocks aren't essential to the originality of this particular gun, you might recoup some of your purchase price by spinning them off, if you so choose.
Titegroups
Member
Just being funny, $300 for a Smith revolver that works and looks decent, hard to beat that. Have fun with it!
geoff40
Member
This is photograph #5 from the auction that Avery got this revolver from. So my question to all, does the sideplate fit look ok to you, or is it not original to the gun?
geoff40
Member
Lightened up for more detail.
A, once you shoot that gun I suspect you will be quite happy with your purchase. Let us know.
OP
Avery11
US Veteran
Thank you for offering to post the picture for me , Geoff. I'm interested to see the consensus.
I don't think that side plate has to be a replacement. Possibly the edges got a little distorted when the gun was polished before the second blue.
When you have time to take the gun apart you can tell by pulling the sideplate and checking the soft assembly number on the inner surface. It should be the same as the assembly numbers on the facing yoke and frame surfaces that are exposed when the cylinder swings out. Different number, replacement side plate.
Excuse me if I don't need to say this, but there proper ways and improper ways to remove sideplates. Read up on them in the FAQs elsewhere in this forum. (In brief, use parallel face screwdrivers that fit the slots exactly, and never pry the sideplate up; tap the frame until the sideplate lifts itself from vibration.)
When you have time to take the gun apart you can tell by pulling the sideplate and checking the soft assembly number on the inner surface. It should be the same as the assembly numbers on the facing yoke and frame surfaces that are exposed when the cylinder swings out. Different number, replacement side plate.
Excuse me if I don't need to say this, but there proper ways and improper ways to remove sideplates. Read up on them in the FAQs elsewhere in this forum. (In brief, use parallel face screwdrivers that fit the slots exactly, and never pry the sideplate up; tap the frame until the sideplate lifts itself from vibration.)
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fat tom
Absent Comrade
fat tom,
At least you din't post this one purported to be me in my youngers days. If you had I'da been PO'ed.
We need to start a new "Add a caption to this pic" thread with that one!
f.t.
roaddog28
Member
Well in my humble opinion you did fine. $300 is about the going rate for your M&P. They are not rare revolvers. S&W made millions of them. Prices fall usually in the $250 to $300 for a shooter grade revolver. Now if you would of said say $500 then that would be different. I see some gun shops wanting over $500 for a older M&P without a box and a lot of wear.
Anybody that buys one for that price needs to visit a doctor.
Enjoy shooting your new revolver.
Howard
Anybody that buys one for that price needs to visit a doctor.
Enjoy shooting your new revolver.
Howard
$300?? I can't think where you'd get a better firearm for
that kind of money. I'm not a collector, but I know what I like.
Leather and blue steel, good grips, and if it's a good shooter, one of the best guns on the planet. JMHO I wouldn't be ashamed to show off a
S&W like that in any crowd. I'll be watching for your updates.
TACC1
that kind of money. I'm not a collector, but I know what I like.
Leather and blue steel, good grips, and if it's a good shooter, one of the best guns on the planet. JMHO I wouldn't be ashamed to show off a
S&W like that in any crowd. I'll be watching for your updates.
TACC1
handejector
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We need to start a new "Add a caption to this pic" thread with that one!
f.t.
Don't you dare. We'll be takin heads right and left....
The sideplate is not a replacement I'll bet.
A slight gap at top is an anomaly I've witnessed a few times, and it is possible the re-buffer did it.
Look at the three corners- top and two bottom. They all line up. I've never seen all 3 align on a replacement.
OK Hog Shooter
Member
Nice lookin acquisition, Avery. Take it out and enjoy shooting it till the cows come home! Just don't shoot the cows...
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Avery11
US Veteran
Well, I took it home and cleaned it with breakfree and a tooth brush. I think I will need a mild abrasive to get the tough stuff. Any suggestions?
Also, I used ren-wax but now I wonder if I should have stripped it of the breakfree residue first. I did put wax on the grips but need to get a soft bristly toothbrush to go back over them. The checkering is sharper than it appears.
All the numbers match and the action, for me, re-defines smooth. Can't wait to get to the range.
Can you guys date it please? No numbers on the grips.
My photos need work
Also, I used ren-wax but now I wonder if I should have stripped it of the breakfree residue first. I did put wax on the grips but need to get a soft bristly toothbrush to go back over them. The checkering is sharper than it appears.
All the numbers match and the action, for me, re-defines smooth. Can't wait to get to the range.
Can you guys date it please? No numbers on the grips.
My photos need work
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Avery11
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MikeChandler
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Who says you can't get a great gun for $300.00 anymore?
I like it!
I like it!
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This one probably shipped in the early-mid 1920s.
My apologies for my earlier comments about the finish; someone did a better than average job on the reblue.
My apologies for my earlier comments about the finish; someone did a better than average job on the reblue.
deadin
US Veteran
It's amazing what a good bath and a little make-up (Ren-Wax) can do. That cleaned up real good.
fry
Member
X2.................
Hi:
Long story short--You are not an idiot and you did great!
Jimmy
Long story short--You are not an idiot and you did great!
Jimmy
