Is this gap normal?

The reason I’m asking is I plan on purchasing a model 29-2 in the near future and I’ve noticed this a couple of times in photos online and I’m wondering if it’s an indication that the gun has been shot a lot or if something is wrong. I’ve never bought a p&r revolver.
 
It indicates poor machine work and fitting. I wouldn't buy it.
I'd take a pass on that one as well! There are plenty out there - just take a breath and have patience. Seems like something is bent, cut cockeyed or poorly threaded. While the revolver would probably function OK, that would bother me.
 
There is often a gap between the ejector rod shroud and frame on S&W revolvers. Sometimes the gap is quite noticeable, sometimes there is virtually no gap. It all depends upon the dimensions of the barrel and frame and what steps were taken during the fitting of the barrel to the frame.
 
This gap is more than just the ER housing under the barrel. There is also a gap between the frame and barrel itself. That is what bothers me more than the shroud gap. Some are not bothered by this - but this particular example is worse than most IMO.
 
I think that I'd pass on that non-P&R Model 29-3, too. It almost looks like the barrel hit something hard and was bent up, compressing the barrel against the top of the frame and making a gap at the yoke recess. That, or as others have said, it's just plain bad machining. I own a few Model 29-2s and have never seen a gap like that, and it would bother me.
 
My opinion? Stop looking at your N frames in front of a backlight. That backlight can terribly exxagerate any gaps. Here is a 629-6 which is 100% fine in works and in normal looks. See how the thing looks when placed in front of a backlight at the right angle.

Also, I do not believe the OP's barrel is necessarily bent -- the face of the frame is not perfectly flat and perpendicular to the barrel. In fact, if you look closely at my photos you will also see there what may appear to be a bent -- I can assure you that barrel is not bent.
 

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The gap OP pictured is completely normal and intentional, not poor anything!! The extractor rod shroud in deliberately relieved slightly as seen so that it does not drag on the face of the frame and mar the finish as the barrel is installed. All models with an extractor rod shroud will have this clearance gap to some degree if you look at them closely with a backlight. Generally a small gap will be seen at the rib too.

I have said this many times, and it applies to everyone that thought this indicates something was wrong with the gun, quit guessing and posting replies about things you know nothing about!
 
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The gap OP pictured is completely normal and intentional, not poor anything!! ...I have said this many times, and it applies to everyone that thought this indicates something was wrong with the gun, quit guessing and posting replies about things you know nothing about!

If you hold out for one without a gap, you'll be holding out for a long time. That gap is normal and most have it.

These two posts made me pull out three 29-2's that were readily available. Two blued and one nickel.

On one blued gun, there was a small gap at the extractor rod housing but none at the barrel or rib. The gap was tight and only visible with a back light.

The other two had no gaps anywhere.

I don't even have to look at my 29-1 and 29 no dash...I know there aren't any gaps.

OP, take it from someone who "doesn't know anything", and wait for a better pistol.
 
Fairly common, unfortunately. If it’s an easy to find model, I’d pass. If it’s a rare and very desirable example, I’d grab it and deal with it.
 
There is often a gap between the ejector rod shroud and frame on S&W revolvers. Sometimes the gap is quite noticeable, sometimes there is virtually no gap. It all depends upon the dimensions of the barrel and frame and what steps were taken during the fitting of the barrel to the frame.

So true......Effects nothing.
 
These two posts made me pull out three 29-2's that were readily available. Two blued and one nickel.

On one blued gun, there was a small gap at the extractor rod housing but none at the barrel or rib. The gap was tight and only visible with a back light.

The other two had no gaps anywhere.

I don't even have to look at my 29-1 and 29 no dash...I know there aren't any gaps.

OP, take it from someone who "doesn't know anything", and wait for a better pistol.

One thing I do know is that the barrel on the 29 that the OP posted pictures of was installed differently than the pinned barrels on your -2's. The barrel on the -3 is friction fit and uses a built in spacer that is part of the barrel to set the proper torque. That's what produces the gap. Some pinned barrels have the gap also but most of the non pinned barrels have a gap.
 
One thing I do know is that the barrel on the 29 that the OP posted pictures of was installed differently than the pinned barrels on your -2's. The barrel on the -3 is friction fit and uses a built in spacer that is part of the barrel to set the proper torque. That's what produces the gap. Some pinned barrels have the gap also but most of the non pinned barrels have a gap.
WRONG. I have removed and installed multiple barrels of each type and there is no built in spacer on any of them and both pinned and unpinned need to be properly torqued. The pin does absolutely nothing as the notch for it in the barrel will allow several degrees of rotation in either direction if the barrel is not properly torqued, You can also install a pinned barrel in a non pin frame or a non pin barrel in a pin frame by simply filing the missing notch in the proper location

The gap usually isn't the result of the barrel, it is usually the frame and caused by the fact the face of the yoke and frame were match finished after machining
 
WRONG. I have removed and installed multiple barrels of each type and there is no built in spacer on any of them and both pinned and unpinned need to be properly torqued. The pin does absolutely nothing as the notch for it in the barrel will allow several degrees of rotation in either direction if the barrel is not properly torqued, You can also install a pinned barrel in a non pin frame or a non pin barrel in a pin frame by simply filing the missing notch in the proper location

The gap usually isn't the result of the barrel, it is usually the frame and caused by the fact the face of the yoke and frame were match finished after machining
Look at the base of the threads on the barrel. There is a raised area that creates the crush fit when the machine torques the barrel into the frame. Pinned barrels don't have that ridge.
 
Incorrect again, as they as identical and both will thread into a frame the same amount using the same amount of effort. I have at least 20 barrel of various vintage. Have replaced the barrels on multiple no pin frames with pin barrels and a few no pin barrels in pin frames.

No problems installing or after firing lots of ammo.

Here is a video of them assembling revolvers at the factory. Watch starting just before 4:00 They use a machine to spin them up, but the final torque is very small and applied by hand.
 
I've owned at least a dozen S&W's over the years, dating from the 1890's to the 1990's, and not one of them had or has a noticeable gap there.
 
Incorrect again, as they as identical and both will thread into a frame the same amount using the same amount of effort. I have at least 20 barrel of various vintage. Have replaced the barrels on multiple no pin frames with pin barrels and a few no pin barrels in pin frames.

No problems installing or after firing lots of ammo.

Here is a video of them assembling revolvers at the factory. Watch starting just before 4:00 They use a machine to spin them up, but the final torque is very small and applied by hand.


There is a shoulder at the base of the threads that bears on the front of the frame and that sets the torque. It is a crush fit. They did that to eliminate some of the fitting that was necessary with the pinned barrels with ejector shrouds. The gun in the video has already been torqued and the worker is using that wrench to clock the barrel. If you look, just before he puts the wrench on it he puts it in a fixture to measure if the barrel is at 12 o'clock. I might have been hallucinating when they taught me about it at the factory.
 
News flash if you do not fit a pinned barrel exactly the same as an unpinned barrel it will rotate despite the pin and I can prove it. Take a pin barrel and remove enough from the rear shoulder (or the face of the frame) so that it doesn't come up hand tight in the same spot as in the video but goes to 12 0'clock. Insert the pin and hey guess what the barrel will turn forward and back about 5 degrees. Been there done that. Non pinned barrels are NOT a"crush fit" both them and pinned barrels must be torqued to the frame by the back shoulder of the barrel pressing against the frame

I dpo not care what you thought you learned at the factory. Like I said I have a stack of both pinned and no pin barrels and there is no difference other than the generous slot for the pin. I have been to a variety of factory schools. Some learned and some just got certified
 
News flash if you do not fit a pinned barrel exactly the same as an unpinned barrel it will rotate despite the pin and I can prove it. Take a pin barrel and remove enough from the rear shoulder (or the face of the frame) so that it doesn't come up hand tight in the same spot as in the video but goes to 12 0'clock. Insert the pin and hey guess what the barrel will turn forward and back about 5 degrees. Been there done that. Non pinned barrels are NOT a"crush fit" both them and pinned barrels must be torqued to the frame by the back shoulder of the barrel pressing against the frame

I dpo not care what you thought you learned at the factory. Like I said I have a stack of both pinned and no pin barrels and there is no difference other than the generous slot for the pin. I have been to a variety of factory schools. Some learned and some just got certified

OK. I guess that settles it.
 
Buy revolvers like this and the problem is solved. 😎IMG_0116.webp

Seriously though, I looked through my meager collection and found most without any discernible gap. When backlit with a white backing 2 have a small gap that would be hard to see in any other way.
Unless I could see it under normal circumstances I wouldn’t worry about it. We sometimes look at things to closely and try and find flaws instead of just enjoying them for what they are, handmade objects that we like.
 
Buy revolvers like this and the problem is solved. 😎View attachment 818562

Seriously though, I looked through my meager collection and found most without any discernible gap. When backlit with a white backing 2 have a small gap that would be hard to see in any other way.
Unless I could see it under normal circumstances I wouldn’t worry about it. We sometimes look at things to closely and try and find flaws instead of just enjoying them for what they are, handmade objects that we like.

Very nice!
 
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