I picked up a Galco FLETCH belt holster for my M&P40. Very nice holster and the gun disappears nicely under a jacket. The problem I'm having is that the gun won't come out of the holster easily. It goes in easily and when I'm holding the holster in my hand I can remove the gun easily, but when I'm weaing the holster I can't seem to draw the gun easily. Does it just need time to be broken in or am I possibly doing something wrong? It seems to be pulling the holster and my pants up with the gun when I try to draw it.
Issues with belt holster
- Thread starter MattB
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I picked up a Galco FLETCH belt holster for my M&P40. Very nice holster and the gun disappears nicely under a jacket. The problem I'm having is that the gun won't come out of the holster easily. It goes in easily and when I'm holding the holster in my hand I can remove the gun easily, but when I'm weaing the holster I can't seem to draw the gun easily. Does it just need time to be broken in or am I possibly doing something wrong? It seems to be pulling the holster and my pants up with the gun when I try to draw it.
Wyatt Earp
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Leather holsters need time to break in.
Galcos are pretty soft, so while the gun breaks out easily when the holster is in your hands, the holster is bending to your waist when you tighten your belt and holding the gun more tightly.
Additionally, Galcos and most other off-the-shelf leather have 1 3/4" belt slots. If you are wearing a 1 1/2" belt the holster will rotate around the slop in the slots making it harder to get a clean draw.
Such issues is why I would rather wait for custom leather, which costs the same or less as the store bought kind, is made of better leather, and you can specify the exact belt slot width that you want.
If I need a holster quickly, I'll order kydex and that will tide me over until the leather gets here.
Galcos are pretty soft, so while the gun breaks out easily when the holster is in your hands, the holster is bending to your waist when you tighten your belt and holding the gun more tightly.
Additionally, Galcos and most other off-the-shelf leather have 1 3/4" belt slots. If you are wearing a 1 1/2" belt the holster will rotate around the slop in the slots making it harder to get a clean draw.
Such issues is why I would rather wait for custom leather, which costs the same or less as the store bought kind, is made of better leather, and you can specify the exact belt slot width that you want.
If I need a holster quickly, I'll order kydex and that will tide me over until the leather gets here.
No it's not impeding things...I think the belt I'm wearing may not be tight enough, so it allows too much movement by the holster. My solution may be to get a new belt.
EDIT: It seems like with the FLETCH the gun needs to be pulled backwards slightly and then up to draw it smoothly. I've discovered that even my standard 1 1/4" Dockers dress belt holds the gun and holster very well and allows a smooth (if not yet proficient due to my lack of experience) draw. I'm really surprised at how well it conceals the full-size M&P given that I'm relatively thin. Too bad DC doesn't believe in the 2nd amendment, I'd be wearing this thing every time I go there if I was allowed to. Thank goodness I live in Virginia.
Doug M.
Member
"Tightness" might not be the issue, but rigidity/stiffness could well be. Quality belts make a huge difference.
Sounds like it is time to visit the Belt Man's website. http://www.thebeltman.net/
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Someone already mentioned both important points: the belt and holster must be matched as to size and the belt must be stiff.
Single layers of material just aren't rigid enough to properly support a holstered pistol. Avoid those belts stiffened with plastic inserts. They won't mold to the body shape and they'll eat your hips.
You mention 1 1/4 inch belts. Either start shopping for pants with larger (1 1/2-1/3/4) belt loops or pay a tailor to change the belt loops on your pants.
Single layers of material just aren't rigid enough to properly support a holstered pistol. Avoid those belts stiffened with plastic inserts. They won't mold to the body shape and they'll eat your hips.
You mention 1 1/4 inch belts. Either start shopping for pants with larger (1 1/2-1/3/4) belt loops or pay a tailor to change the belt loops on your pants.
My pants will support a larger belt, but from trying it out today in my house the problem is more that the holster needs to be broken in and the belt needs to be tightened properly more than the belt is the wrong width. After holstering and unholstering the gun several times per the break-in instructions that came with the holster, it is now much easier to get in and out. The holster was also originally designed for the SW99/P99 and not the M&P, which I imagine adds to the break in period. The gun store had holsters designed for the Sigma/M&P but the SW99 holster actually fits the M&P better than the Sigma holster does. Not sure why, but it does.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Wyatt Earp made the right connections. Your Galco holster is designed to be tensioned by the belt, pulling the holstered handgun into the body. This applies tension to the handgun and increases retention in the holster. All good things!
There will be a break-in period with any new and properly formed holster. Holsters should be fitted tightly enough to prevent movement of the handgun inside the holster (the primary cause of holster wear) as well as to prevent the handgun from sliding out on its own. After a period of use (a few weeks) the leather will start to become more supple. If not well-fitted to the handgun, the holster will start to become sloppy in fit within a relatively short time.
A solidly made belt of the correct size to fit the holster slots/belt loops is far more important than most folks realize. Narrow belts, and belts made of lightweight materials, must be tightened to an uncomfortable degree to secure a holstered handgun of any significant weight.
Most of the holsters that I make (when new) can be held upside down with the handgun in them without releasing the handgun. After a reasonable break-in period, I expect the handgun to come out smoothly without undue resistance, while being well retained in normal carry.
Interesting that a holster formed to the SW99 fits better than one made for your M&P. Some makers use a generic molding piece, fitting one holster to several handguns. That is an idea that I really dislike; my holsters are hand-fitted to the specific handguns they are intended to carry. Anything less is just second-rate (in my humble opinion, after 37 years of making holsters). Galco makes a fine product, so don't take this as a slam against that company.
There will be a break-in period with any new and properly formed holster. Holsters should be fitted tightly enough to prevent movement of the handgun inside the holster (the primary cause of holster wear) as well as to prevent the handgun from sliding out on its own. After a period of use (a few weeks) the leather will start to become more supple. If not well-fitted to the handgun, the holster will start to become sloppy in fit within a relatively short time.
A solidly made belt of the correct size to fit the holster slots/belt loops is far more important than most folks realize. Narrow belts, and belts made of lightweight materials, must be tightened to an uncomfortable degree to secure a holstered handgun of any significant weight.
Most of the holsters that I make (when new) can be held upside down with the handgun in them without releasing the handgun. After a reasonable break-in period, I expect the handgun to come out smoothly without undue resistance, while being well retained in normal carry.
Interesting that a holster formed to the SW99 fits better than one made for your M&P. Some makers use a generic molding piece, fitting one holster to several handguns. That is an idea that I really dislike; my holsters are hand-fitted to the specific handguns they are intended to carry. Anything less is just second-rate (in my humble opinion, after 37 years of making holsters). Galco makes a fine product, so don't take this as a slam against that company.
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