J frame 642 cylinder and yoke question

Royalecheez

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Howdy all. Got a question for the experts. Ever since I bought my 642 from my LGS a few months back I have always felt that the cylinder and yoke have a bit more play than normal. So I sent it back to smith once and they sent it back with a letter saying they had repaired the yoke and retention screw. But it felt like it has the same, possibly slightly less, amount of play.

I called again stating it had the same problem as when I sent it in the first time and the rep told me it was normal. I can hear and feel the yoke/cylinder assembly jiggling back and forth if I shake the gun. And it is noticibly less if I hole the yoke to the frame while I shake it (noticed this while practicing drawing, not just being weird and shaking my guns) I guess I'm just wondering how much is to much as I know all revolver cylinders have some play. And if this is a normal thing with j frames.

Thanks for the help.
 
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I am sure glad you asked this question! I have often wondered why some SW's will have a tight frame/yoke retention – and some (fewer) will be loosey-goosey. I have never seen a definitive answer as to why this is, and what are the steps needed to correct it. The reason I have never asked this question myself is I refuse to buy a revolver that is loose in the manner that you described. As soon as an LGS clerk hands me a revolver, I close the cylinder and check the frame/yoke retention. Most of the recent new production J-frames I have checked have been pretty good. Anyways, enough drivel for me because I do not have the answer! Hopefully, some of the SW armorers and retired armorers will respond ...
 
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Howdy all. Got a question for the experts. Ever since I bought my 642 from my LGS a few months back I have always felt that the cylinder and yoke have a bit more play than normal. So I sent it back to smith once and they sent it back with a letter saying they had repaired the yoke and retention screw. But it felt like it has the same, possibly slightly less, amount of play.

I called again stating it had the same problem as when I sent it in the first time and the rep told me it was normal. I can hear and feel the yoke/cylinder assembly jiggling back and forth if I shake the gun. And it is noticibly less if I hole the yoke to the frame while I shake it (noticed this while practicing drawing, not just being weird and shaking my guns) I guess I'm just wondering how much is to much as I know all revolver cylinders have some play. And if this is a normal thing with j frames.

Thanks for the help.

MY 642 DOES NOT EXHIBIT THIS PROBLEM. I'M NO EXPERT, AS THIS IS MY ONLY J FRAME.....
 
I have a bunch of j frames. Ranging in age from new to very old. Non of them exhibit the problem you have. I have, however, seen a few used j frames that did seem loose. I just figured too many hot rounds had been used. If they were being sold, I passed.

You mention that you purchased this 642 from your LGS, but you don't mention if it was new or used. At any rate, if you've sent it back to Smith and gotten their "Good Housekeeping Seal of approval", then you may be assured it's at least safe to shoot. If it really bugs ya, then the best advice I can give ya is, sell it and buy another.
 
Your initial post doesn't indicate whether the movement you are concerned about is front to back movement of the assembly, or side to side movement of the yoke, between the yoke and the frame.

I suspect part of the noise you are hearing is the cylinder moving side to side due to the gauge between the cylinder stop both in the frame window, and in the stop slot in the cylinder.

Additionally, a small amount of gauge or "space" is necessary between the cylinder assembly components and the other parts of the revolver that remain stationary during the rotational part of the firing sequence. Obviously, the revolver would not function properly without the proper gauge between these important components.
"Fixed" areas of the gun that provide support but must also accomodate movement when the cylinder is closed include the yoke barrel, center pin, center pin hole in the breechface, hole in the yoke body cut for the extractor rod , the front locking bolt interface with the tip of the extractor rod, and the cylinder stop, and stop window in the frame.
Small amounts of gauge or "space" are needed for the components of the cylinder assy to rotate during firing, but the integrity of the alignment between the bore of the cylider and the barrel must also be maintained when the gun is actually fired. This alignment actually depends on all of these components being fit and installed properly.
The front locking bolt, if properly fit, provides support and mitigates some the stresses placed on the extractor rod, yoke, and cylinder during firing. The center pin, while locked in the breechface, acts to secure the assembly at the rear. The cylinder stop holds the cylinder in it's proper critical location in terms of timing and alignment with the barrel.

Although you can push or "shake" cylinder assembly an make it move out very slightly out of alignment, if the components are properly fit, this slight gauge you are hearing, and possibly feeling, is quite normal. The important thing is whether or not the specs are within tolerances, and the cylinder assy and barrel are correctly aligned when the cartridge detonates.

"Excessive" movement of the yoke, the front of the extractor rod at it's interface with the locking bolt, or of the cylinder either on the cylinder stop, or in the breechface, is not normal, and may indicate worn, damaged or improperly fit parts. Please schedule a visit with S&W Customer Service.
 
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Side to side. Front to back is tight. And with the trigger pulled hammer dropped everything is very tight. Gun was bought brand new
 

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