"J" Frame Engineering and Production Changes

tguil

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Anybody have a list of the engineering and production changes on the "J" Frame? I'm especially interested in finding them for the Model 36 and Model 60.
 
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The Model 60 alone had close to 20 as I recall. Not all the changes were captured with dash-numbers either. It will be a VERY long list.:D
 
You can purchase the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 3rd Edition. It has all engineering changes for all models listed and explained.
 
You can purchase the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 3rd Edition. It has all engineering changes for all models listed and explained.

I figured it would. Would anyone take the time just to list the changes for the Model 36 and Model 60 from 1982 until they moved to the .357 frame. I am really only interested in the cylinder and the extractor.
 
Let me see if I can be of a little help. I really don't think the cylinder and extractor changed until they went to the j-mag frame, so if you are replacing cylinders, any short-style (pre j-mag) should work. If you are trying to fit a replacement cylinder, or swap cylinders with another gun (or among guns), the thing that creates a problem is the extractor star.

I don't know if the extractor will exchange between the 36 and the 60, but I am pretty sure the "package" will (cylinder and extractor). The other issue can be the length of the center-pin. The yoke and cylinder is a "factory fit", but if you get lucky....they will interchange among frames in the same family....like below. This is a Model 38-2 with a model 640 cylinder, yoke and extractor rod. Both are pre j-mag frames.

Tell us what you are trying to do?
 

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Long/short Story. I've been considering this since I accidentally loaded a +p round into my very nice Model 36 (manufactured and purchased by me in 1982). This one factory +p round bulged one of the cylinder chambers. Shouldn't have done that, but it did. The gun had always been shot with snake shot or wadcutters (a few times semi-wadcutters). Smith & Wesson doesn't warranty a gun this old nor do they have parts. Therefore I need a replacement cylinder. Because I am quite sure that I cannot find a LNIB blued cylinder to match the very good blue on the frame of my Model 36, I have chosen to go with a stainless cylinder from a Model 60 of the same vintage. I'm not worried about "messing up" the value of the gun. It's my gun, not something a collector would even consider. Although I'd prefer not to have home made "pinto". I think that with a nice set of grips, I would end up with a pretty decent looking "custom" gun. Before I do anything I'm going to have a competent local gunsmith check out my Model 36 to see if there has been any other damage to the gun.

Thanks for your interest. The questions and answers on this forum are always interesting and helpful, especially to a guy who owns more Rugers ("tanks") than S&W's. :D

I notice that you are a "snubby fan". My other S&W is a "no lock" 442. IMO S&W "J" frames without the lock are about the best looking guns around...my reason for buying the 442 rather than a Ruger LCR.
 
Now we have a good picture. I know it takes a while to get to the meat in the coconut as many people will simply pass-over a long drawn-out post.

I DO have a spare blued cylinder from a pre j-frame 38 special. Here is what you can do if you want to. Send me a picture of the cylinder with your extractor installed. The fitment of the cylinder will not be any problem at all as they were all the same size (length) up until the j-mag frame....so they will swap. The issue will be the extractor star and how it is mounted in the cylinder. Some have pins and some have "sweeping" edges. I may can come up with a blued cylinder and an extractor for you. Send it to my e-mail address after you get a PM from me. I know I have a cylinder and extractor that may work.

Yep....I'm snubbiefan. I do have a few 4-inch barrel guns, as in the 686 and 617, but the rest are 1-7/8".

PM on the way.
 
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