JBWeld didn't protect blast shield on 329pd
- Thread starter dla
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Original or Quick JB Weld?
Original. I cleaned the area with acetone and scuffed it with 400grit. I let it cure for a week. You can see a couple patches still remaining in the "after" picture.
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I am not clear on why you felt the need to "fix" the 329 before it broke. I am aware of the things that have been documented about these revolvers, and I suppose if I had one, I would just follow the advice of Skeeter Skelton's friend, Col. Evan Quiros* - I would have two, so that I would have a replacement while the first was in the shop. Of course, Col. Quiros did that with his 8 3/8 inch Model 29, and twenty years later, in the late 1970s, after much heavy use on his ranch, he still had the "replacement" new in the box as the first had still not yet needed service.
LT. COL. EVAN BELISARIO QUIROS passed away, at age 91, in 2009. His little "ranch" consisted of a quarter million acres in Texas. From his obituary in the Houston Chronicle: "The Colonel's real joy was his love for firearms. He was an expert marksman and every gun that he owned was considered the best. Either his firearms performed with precision or they were repaired or discarded. He was featured in many gun and shooting magazines. He loved to hunt and traveled the world in pursuit of his hobby."
LT. COL. EVAN BELISARIO QUIROS passed away, at age 91, in 2009. His little "ranch" consisted of a quarter million acres in Texas. From his obituary in the Houston Chronicle: "The Colonel's real joy was his love for firearms. He was an expert marksman and every gun that he owned was considered the best. Either his firearms performed with precision or they were repaired or discarded. He was featured in many gun and shooting magazines. He loved to hunt and traveled the world in pursuit of his hobby."
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I'm a firm believer in that theory.
These guns have a limited life span between rebuilds. One of mine still sits nib waiting its turn, and it won't take 20 yrs, 2500 rounds is about average but I don't load it to the gills with H110/296, so mine may go a little longer( I don't feel the need to shoot it as much has I once did)
dla,
That's too bad about the jb weld not working, the only other thing I can think of is maybe a "hiliti" type of concrete epoxy. Other than that maybe to hell with trying to prevent the burn through and just let them fix it. Anyway glad you got it back, hopefully your bow season hasn't started yet.
Good luck this fall.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I feel dumb asking this but where's the forcing cone? Is it there?
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Well you're never gonna find out it don't work until you try it.
Nothing dumb about it. That great big hole in those pictures is of course is the start of the barrel. What's not visible is that the start of the barrel is actually tapered like a cone towards the rifling. That "cone" taper is the "forcing cone".
dfariswheel
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The revolver forcing cone is the small funnel at the rear of the barrel that leads into the rifling.
The forcing cone is much misunderstood even by many gunsmiths.
It's a critical part of a revolver barrel and the critical dimension is the diameter of the outer edge of the mouth.
How much taper or degrees of taper is relatively unimportant.
If the mouth is too large you get inaccuracy.
Too small and you get inaccuracy and spitting of bullet metal.
Forcing cones have to be measured with a special precision plug gage. The difference between too big and too small is tiny and it can't be eyeballed.
The blast shield is a wear item that must replaced by S&W when it cuts through. Depending on the powder/bullet/load the shield can cut throw in less than 1000 rounds. It's normally about a 10 day turn-around time, except during the shutdowns (and they're shut down till the 12th). I prefer not send it back if I can avoid it.
Now a 1000 rounds may seem like a lot if you don't reload, but I do and it isn't.
BJoe
Member
The heat generated is enough to cut steel so I would think J.B. for all it's good uses, is called on a job it can't handle.
The heat generated is enough to cut steel so I would think J.B. for all it's good uses, is called on a job it can't handle.
I had a 19 do that.(With cast bullets.) Replaced the bbl. and its still shooting.
Looks like a job for.....
....Inconel X. Or maybe ceramic. I read that S&W upgraded the material on the blast shield, but I don't know to what. With today's materials they should be able to make a shield that could outlive the gun.
....Inconel X. Or maybe ceramic. I read that S&W upgraded the material on the blast shield, but I don't know to what. With today's materials they should be able to make a shield that could outlive the gun.
I tried JBWeld on the blast shield. The goal was to lengthen the life of the shield. The following are before and after pictures.
Here's the thin layer of JBWeld (cured 3 days).
And here is whats left after 20 shots
Bless your heart, and I admire the effort, but JB Weld is only for the truly faithful, smart hillbillies know that nothing that comes out of a tube in liquid form, and cures by air drying is going to resist the flame of a full house 44 mag. Now some dumb hillbillies who don't know no betta, can get by with that kinda stuff, but you and I don't fall into that katagory, know whut I mean! billy
Oh and buy ya a real steel gun for the big stuff, save that purty little aluminium gun for dressin up, and load ya some fancy, fast 44 specials in those long mag cases, 1000-1050 fps for social work......billy's perfessional rekomendation,,,,,no charge fur a feller furrum member!
Oh and its hard to beat them groovy XTPs.........
BigBill
Absent Comrade
So the forcing cone is we're the rifling isn't. The bore in the barrel is tapered with no rifling so the bullet forces it's way in. There is no taper or chamfer at the end of the barrel. Interesting. So the excess gassed can raise he'll in this area with an alloy gun. Now if the burned area isn't completely around the barrels edge even do you have an alignment problem between the cylinder and the barrel?
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dla--I'm at a loss to explain why the J-B Weld did not work for you, yet it is still working for me from the initial installation!? You did use the 2 part epoxy? I dug out my old tubes and they are marked part number 8265-S. My newer tubes are marked 8265-H and I haven't opened them yet. Perhaps the formulation has changed? A quick call to J-B Weld at 1-800-529-3530 may provide an answer?--Shuz
Well now I know. The longer the Lord lets me live, the more trivia I have for a game show
I'm still gonna try using the JBWeld to glue down a piece of something. A sliver of a ceramic would be nice.
One tube is red (hardner) the other is black and says "steel". I don't have the packaging and there are no part numbers on the tubes.
I'll give it another try in a while, this time watching between shots to see how it wears. Who knows, maybe I didn't get the surface prepped right. In the "after" picture I can see a couple patches of JBWeld left which might indicate that the majority flaked off in one big chunk.
sac-gunslinger
Member
I have worked on aircraft most of my adult life so I know a little something about joining metal pieces. J-B Weld has mythic stature in the world of backyard mechanics, many believing it has properties well beyond its humble composition.
J-B advertises its Weld product as "cold weld" but no transfer of base metal takes place. J-B Weld is a simple consumer-style epoxy (commercial epoxies feature a very small amount of catalyst for the amount of resin used). The resin contains metal so the resulting bond can be strong and temperature resistant. It works best when fastening two pieces of metal together. A tight joint will see the epoxy layer very, very thin. To work properly, epoxy has to be joining two pieces of something.
The use of epoxy on the blast shield was doomed. The patch was not joining anything but simply acting as a protective coating. The application was subject to all of the stresses in the cylinder gap when firing. The very hot gases at high velocity basically blew the exposed patch off of the surface. To achieve the level of protection desired it would be necessary to actually weld material onto the blast shield (i.e. exchange base metal molecules with welding rod molecules) then machine it down to a thickness which would not foul the cylinder. Obviously, far, far easier to just let Smith replace the shield every once in a while.
Am I dissing J-B Weld? No, it is a good specialized consumer epoxy for high temp parts. Works very well when used correctly in proper applications. We do not use it in aircraft repair because such repairs on stressed metal parts are not approved, replacement of the parts is required. I have used it in repairing automotive parts successfully but it needs to be used for "joining."
Now duct tape, that is another question altogether. It is actually a legal repair in certain cases on aircraft.
J-B advertises its Weld product as "cold weld" but no transfer of base metal takes place. J-B Weld is a simple consumer-style epoxy (commercial epoxies feature a very small amount of catalyst for the amount of resin used). The resin contains metal so the resulting bond can be strong and temperature resistant. It works best when fastening two pieces of metal together. A tight joint will see the epoxy layer very, very thin. To work properly, epoxy has to be joining two pieces of something.
The use of epoxy on the blast shield was doomed. The patch was not joining anything but simply acting as a protective coating. The application was subject to all of the stresses in the cylinder gap when firing. The very hot gases at high velocity basically blew the exposed patch off of the surface. To achieve the level of protection desired it would be necessary to actually weld material onto the blast shield (i.e. exchange base metal molecules with welding rod molecules) then machine it down to a thickness which would not foul the cylinder. Obviously, far, far easier to just let Smith replace the shield every once in a while.
Am I dissing J-B Weld? No, it is a good specialized consumer epoxy for high temp parts. Works very well when used correctly in proper applications. We do not use it in aircraft repair because such repairs on stressed metal parts are not approved, replacement of the parts is required. I have used it in repairing automotive parts successfully but it needs to be used for "joining."
Now duct tape, that is another question altogether. It is actually a legal repair in certain cases on aircraft.
