Jonesing for an Enfield

Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
841
Reaction score
1,241
Location
SE CT
I can't think of a serious need, but I'd kind of like to have a .303 Enfield. I'd like one that's in decent condition, but is a "shooter".

It'd be fun to take to a three-gun match. The most recent club match needed enough rounds for a reload, which kind of knocked my Mosin out of the game. I can get a stripper clip to work maybe 10% of the time. No such thing for a Krag, so I brought my M1903 to the last match. The match timer picked the wrong place to stand; I bounced the first casing right off his forehead. :)

Here's where I feel old: At least half of the participants didn't recognize a M1903 on sight. They thought it was a Mauser.

But anyway, I want a SMLE.
 
Register to hide this ad
They are cool rifles. I have 3. The original Martini Enfield single shot falling block, 1918 SMLE and a Jungle carbine. You can find sipper clips for them but I have just as much trouble with those as I do with Mosin clips. I think it's me though.

ef1690248d865729d05a2722580fb67d.jpg


4f50b87f50988a53a0453d17bb73faaa.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think they are really cool rifles. I have absolutely no need for one, but there's been one advertised locally for pretty cheap (it has been sporterized - unfortunately) that has been languishing for several weeks now. If I'm not careful, I will submit to it's siren's call and who knows, I may become a .303 Enfield owner.

Best of luck,

Dave
 
I too have a 303 Martini, but from the Citadel (Egypt) along with a No.4 & a No.5.The 5 round Enfield strippers are interchangeable regardless of the war. I have hundreds.PM me if you need a few.

One of the problems with shooting a SMLE or latter, is the chamber is made a little long for mud and dust to have someplace to go in a combat environment like WW I. When fired the shoulder moves forward and full length sizing is required to get it back to specs. Then it should be trimmed (not a necessity with the long chamber), on the next firing the case grows more. All this brass is coming from just in front of the case web, and it gets thinner after each time it is shot. On the 8 rifles my sons and I have used the head separates from the case body at around 6 to 8 firings, then you have a case stuck in the chamber. This was such a common occurrence with wartime ammo that case extractors were an issue item for ground troops. It hasn't been a safety issue during practice, but in a timed sport or combat it is more than a nuisance! The only sure way to beat this problem is don't shoot reloads in competition. That is starting to get expensive as surplus ammo dries up!

I have found ammo on Browning belts with a almost Greek headstamp, it isn't Greek, it is Farsi! It was made by the Iraqi military arsenals in the 70's and 80's and is good ammo (shot to the sights on all my WW II rifles) Us machine gun belts are in 200 round lengths, these were in 333 round belts (like Maxim designed his guns for). I have never seen the correct ammo can, but believe it to be similar to our 30 cal cans but 50% longer, I have seen photos of WWI Russian cans for 7.62x54R Maxim machine guns and assume the 303 cans would be similar.

Ivan
 
Picked an Enfield up a month or so ago. Rifle made in 1942, bayonet & scabbard, in-stock cleaning kit. Cabela's in Dundee Mich had one in the used gun room last Saturday. Couldn't find the date, but it was older than mine. It was in decent shape, marked $250. If I didn't already have one, I'd have bought it.
 
I don't have one but have come close to buying a British Enfield a few
times.

My preference was always for the No. 4 or the No. 5 carbine. The peep
sights are what convinced me. I am old enough so sights on the barrel
are less useful than they used to be.

I think AIM Surplus had some .303 ammo recently. You might find
other suppliers in Shotgun News.

A writer claimed that a good guy with a Brit Enfield might give a Garand user a run for his money in getting 10 rounds off in a hurry.
 
There are helpful videos on YouTube re: loading stripper clips. Two ways, both work, although I prefer rim on top of rim over the one up one down.
I used fine steel wool and a bit of oil and smoothed out all my Enfield stripper clips and en bloc clips. Made all the difference.
Privi Partisan has great ammo, .303 included. Good brass to reload as well.
 

Attachments

  • Enfield and bayonet resized.JPG
    Enfield and bayonet resized.JPG
    178.2 KB · Views: 57
Last edited:
SMLE's are fun toys. Ugly, but fun. If you acquire a #5, look out for the recoil. Suggest you reload a milder round or, if necessary, pull the bullets on factory and carefully reduce the powder by 10 or 15 %. After my first experience with full factory loads and the #5, I had to rush to the dentist. The recoil had kicked all the fillings from my teeth.
 
SMLE's are fun toys. Ugly, but fun. If you acquire a #5, look out for the recoil. Suggest you reload a milder round or, if necessary, pull the bullets on factory and carefully reduce the powder by 10 or 15 %. After my first experience with full factory loads and the #5, I had to rush to the dentist. The recoil had kicked all the fillings from my teeth.

Interesting. I found mine to be quite well mannered.
 
Do you really need a "reason" to want one? I hope not or else I'm in trouble. ;)
I'm late to the game of collecting WW2 military rifles, but a SMLE will round out the main European theatre rifles I desire.

Good tid-bit on the 4 and 5. I really need to do some research on the SMLE so I know pros and cons and hunt down a good shooter.
 
Good news on wanting a WWII model. . .the bayonet is cheap. It's what they call a tent spike. You can complete the rifle historically for next to nothing which is not the case with the old WWI or Indian Arsenal examples.
 
I have two: a MLE Mk I* and a SMLE Mk III*. I fitted a Parker-Hale peep sight to it. My father was in the 27th Infantry Division, New York National Guard in WW I and carried a SMLE Mk III*.

Case life is short for the Lee Enfield design; I keep track of how many times my brass has been reloaded and usually toss it after 5 or 6 reloads. Still a lot cheaper than factory or even surplus ammo and a lot more accurate.
 

Attachments

  • L1020476.jpg
    L1020476.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 51
  • L1020477.jpg
    L1020477.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 50
I too have a 303 Martini, but from the Citadel (Egypt) along with a No.4 & a No.5.The 5 round Enfield strippers are interchangeable regardless of the war. I have hundreds.PM me if you need a few.

One of the problems with shooting a SMLE or latter, is the chamber is made a little long for mud and dust to have someplace to go in a combat environment like WW I. When fired the shoulder moves forward and full length sizing is required to get it back to specs. Then it should be trimmed (not a necessity with the long chamber), on the next firing the case grows more. All this brass is coming from just in front of the case web, and it gets thinner after each time it is shot. On the 8 rifles my sons and I have used the head separates from the case body at around 6 to 8 firings, then you have a case stuck in the chamber. This was such a common occurrence with wartime ammo that case extractors were an issue item for ground troops. It hasn't been a safety issue during practice, but in a timed sport or combat it is more than a nuisance! The only sure way to beat this problem is don't shoot reloads in competition. That is starting to get expensive as surplus ammo dries up!

Ivan

The way to extend case life works like this. The first time you shoot a round, you put a small O-ring down by the rim so the case head is firmly pressed against the bolt when the action is closed. That way the shoulder moves forward and the case is now fire formed FOR THAT PARTICULAR GUN. Future reloading is done with neck sizing only and you don't need the O-ring as the shoulder is setting the case head against the bolt.
 
Does it have to be a 303? I picked up an Indian Ishapore 2A1 in 308 and it does everything a regular smelly does and it does it with 12 rounds vice 10.

Just sayin....

I'll second that! The Ishy Mk 2A was built to be a 7.62 NATO rather than being a conversion, great rifle's. Get two, a Smelly in .303 and an Ishy in 7.62 and you are set.
 
There are helpful videos on YouTube re: loading stripper clips. Two ways, both work, although I prefer rim on top of rim over the one up one down.
I used fine steel wool and a bit of oil and smoothed out all my Enfield stripper clips and en bloc clips. Made all the difference.
Privi Partisan has great ammo, .303 included. Good brass to reload as well.
Thanks for the tip about steel wool and oil. When trying to use them it was like dragging against rocks. I was only able to get 2 or 3 rounds into the gun an the rest would just tip down but not move
 
SMLE's are fun toys. Ugly, but fun. If you acquire a #5, look out for the recoil. Suggest you reload a milder round or, if necessary, pull the bullets on factory and carefully reduce the powder by 10 or 15 %. After my first experience with full factory loads and the #5, I had to rush to the dentist. The recoil had kicked all the fillings from my teeth.
They arnt any worse than Mosin carbines, which the OP seems to have experience with. I don't think they are so bad. I typically put around 50 rounds through my Mosin carbines. If 303 was as cheap I'd do the same with my No5
 
Last edited:
Back
Top