JP Spring Kit

A little hint: I don't know if the hammer in a Smith AR is full-weight, with a "tail," but if it is, you might want to cut off the tail and lighten the hammer. With the lighter springs, you'll get a much faster lock time with the lighter hammer, and your hammer and trigger engagement surfaces won't take as much of a beating, nor will the disconnector. Therefore, your nice trigger pull will last longer before it starts doubling.

I've put in lots of JP triggers, hammers, and springs, and for a quickie job, I usually just use a spring kit and a JP hammer with the stock trigger. The JP hammer is much lighter than a milspec AR hammer. If you want to REALLLLLLY get spoiled, do the whole JP kit. My JP upper/AA lower 6.5 Grendel has one I put in, and its trigger is just under 3 lbs. and very crisp.
 
I appreciate threads like this being at our disposal and thanks. I just installed my JP springs and done some minimal polishing. Certainly worth the little effort it takes since it does make a huge improvement. +1 on this mod.
 
Has anybody had any light-strike/primer ignition issues with the JP kit?
 
ive put a stupid amount of rds threw mine with no issuse at all
 
Revitalizing an old JP Springs Kit thread for more instruction... I've watched Brett's 'Fire Control Group' videos and they make me much more comfortable thinking about replacing my springs (yes I'm a novice) but I hope to get a couple answers from you guys still...

Brett mentioned the factory springs don't fall off, and that you actually will bend them to get them off. Do the JP Springs slip on nicely; I won't have to really bend them to get them on right?

Also if I decide to do the polishing like BeltFed mentioned, would someone please point out the parts that I am to put polish on (in the pic attached) and just exactly how I am suppose to polish it? It sounds like I'm rubbing the pieces together after putting a compound on them?

Sorry if these are silly questions, but I look forward to a nicer pull! I also asked a buddy about this polishing and he's wondering what exactly it does? Does it shorten the creep? Or?

Thanks fellas!
 

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on the leading edge of your trigger you will see 2 machined surfaces(aka shiney) those need to be cleaned up.. easiest way to do that is some 1000 + grit sand paper with alittle wd40 on it lay it on a flat surface then move the trigger back and forth holding the trigger on the same angle as the metal is cutt you dont want to change this angle just clean the machine marks out of it... the other surface is right off the centerline of the hammer pin on the back almost underside of the hammer... if its installed you will see that this is where the leading edge of the trigger hooks into it.. hope this makes since... and you dont wanna get to happy with it just enough to clean the surfaces up
 
I have the JP trigger kit(no hammer) and it breaks decently. I have been happy with it. It breaks closer to 4#. But much better than the stock trigger. I think it was $125. It was def worth it.

I now have switch it out from another of my AR and put in a timney skel 3#. Big difference. I was having issues with timney adjusting under heat from a suppressor, so I switched.

I did try the JP spring kit only and I personally was not happy. For the price you can not beat it. But the trigger kit made the biggest difference.
 
just installed the JP spring kit. The trigger feels so much better to me now, can't wait to go shoot this weekend!
 

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