Just bought (what I was told is) a S&W Model 10-6

[Truckman]

The "B" is not part of the S/N, it only indicates the gun left the factory with a blued finish......Ben

 

[38magnum]

I don't think its ever had a refinish.

i see guns on gun broker and guns international with that same special factory finish,,,

would you call that mint like THOSE sellers do? what would you price it at

 

[boykinlp]

I think you are right. I have been doing some research on older .38 M&P's. The B indicates that the firearm left the factory blued. It is smaller than the numbers and a little bit away from them also. It has the small S&W logo on the left side. It has wood checkerd grips that are really in great condition. It has .38 S&W SPECIAL CTG stamped on the right side of the barrel. I have tried posting pictures but just can't get them to post.

The grips are “rough”, but match the rest of the gun well.
Larry

 

[BC38]

My guess would be that it probably has fitters mark numbers 1 0 6 in the yoke cut out, and someone misinterpreted that as 10-6.

 

[tylerlayne]

I finally got my pistol today. Can not wait to take it to the range. It seems to function really well. The cylinder has no play and the timing seems perfect! All 3 serial numbers match also.

 

[BC38]

I finally got my pistol today. Can not wait to take it to the range. It seems to function really well. The cylinder has no play and the timing seems perfect! All 3 serial numbers match also.

That one is definitely WAY earlier than a 10-6.
It is a Military and Police (M&P) produced before S&W assigned model numbers in 1957. The "mushroom" ejector rod knob on your revolver was discontinued around WWII - if I recall correctly. I'm sure one of our forum experts will chime in with a more accurate date for that change.
The grips/stocks on your gun are from a much newer gun. They don't have the diamond around the grip screw which indicates they were originally on a gun produced after 1968 when the "diamond" around the grip screw was eliminated. Since they have rounded bottom edges, they're what are known as "PC magnas". PC Magnas are "Plain Clothes" service stocks, which were most commonly installed on service revolvers like a snub-nosed Model 15 - a favorite with police detectives back in the day.
FWIW, a 10-6 would have the heavy barrel, not the tapered barrel like your revolver.
All that being said, it is still, a nice looking old wheel gun with some honest finish wear and freckling. Let us know how the old girl dances once you get a chance to take her to the range.

 

[oldrookey617]

Looks like a nice range gun, JP in a earlier post said your M10 is around a 1924. you might remove those grips, there may be a serial # on the inside of the right grip from around a 1967-68 gun, I have a M10-5, think its a late 1966 gun, not sure, 4" tapered barrel, was my dads, it has that type of grips, C 870900, its a smooth great shooter, have fun..

 

[tylerlayne]

Someone here dated the pistol as a early 1920's model. There is no letter in front of the serial number.

 

[Matt_X]

So S&W sold it as a Military and Police in 38 Spl. with 4" barrel.
Collectors will also refer to it as a Hand Ejector Model of 1905 4th change.

It looks great, and hope you enjoy it on the range.
Try a 6 o'clock hold if using 158 gr on a B-8 or similar (5-6" bullseye).

 

[4K2022]

I just bought a S&W Model 10-6 off gunbroker. The seller told me the serial number is 485190. After doing a little research all the ones I saw the serial number started with a letter followed by numbers. Is it possible for a model 10-6 to have a serial nomber that is all numbers?

Thanks for Posting.
This thread touched on so many aspects and issues of buying online. Right down to the last/previous post!
I’ve seen many model 10s that listed the assembly number as the serial number. What’s important to Me is that the correct serial number is recorded on the final paperwork that (I) receive. I just happened to have come across a close friend of your 38 Special

The mushroom, says pre 1928 on Our 5” inch,, 38s

 

[4K2022]

No. The prefix should be either a C or a D. If it is a C, then it would be a very early 10-6.

A 10-5 , taper 4” inch BUTT as a “D” example. with Extra markings

 

[tylerlayne]

Thanks for Posting.
This thread touched on so many aspects and issues of buying online. Right down to the last/previous post!
I’ve seen many model 10s that listed the assembly number as the serial number. What’s important to Me is that the correct serial number is recorded on the final paperwork that (I) receive. I just happened to have come across a close friend of your 38 Special

The mushroom, says pre 1928 on Our 5” inch,, 38s

Wow, Thats awesome! The serial numbers are very close. How does yours shoot?

 

[tylerlayne]

Finally made it to the range today with the 38. I love it. Its hard to believe it is 100 years old. The timing on it is perfect and it is extremely accurate. Really lots of fun to shoot.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

.38 Special S&W revolvers are like tanks and will run forever if maintained properly.

The reason yours has a mottled finish is that it was stored in a leather holster. In the old days people thought cowboys did that, they did not. It is a 100-year-old revolver with 60-year-old grips. I am glad you had a good Range Report. I was going to guess it has not been properly clean and lubricated for 40+ years. Thank you for sharing.

 

[mikeruns]

I think this is a 5” …1905….

 

[familyman357oh]

I think this is a 5” …1905….

Yeah, looks like a 5" to me too. Kinda neat. Not quite as convenient for carry, but the extra sight radius is nice for shooting.

 

[squidsix]

It's definitely a 5" barrel on the OP's gun.

 

[tylerlayne]

It may be older than 100 years old then. And yes it came in a old leather holster. I have it still stored in the holster. Should I leave it out?

 

[JP@AK]

It may be older than 100 years old then.

Are you saying that because it has a 5" barrel? If so, why?

I have it still stored in the holster. Should I leave it out?

Yes. Do not store it in a leather holster or any other kind of tanned leather.