Just Throwing This One Out For Comments

[dwpmusic]

Well, I've posted a few days ago about how pleased I am to have picked up my Model 66-2 .357 L Frame. So, I'm telling myself that I've got enough now and don't need to be thinking about collecting any more. Crazy, hah? I know that I'll buy more. Very addicting hobby. So, now, I thinking N Frame. I don't think I want to go larger than .357. Now, I'd love some comments about what are the favorite N Frames in that caliber. I want to try and stay with the older ones without the darn lock and with the firing pin on the hammer. I'm just a novice and like to read input from all you experts.

 

[andyo5]

The Model 66 is not an L frame. It is a K frame.
My favorite N frame .357 is my M627-5 (the current 627 Pro).

 

[chud333]

Look at a model 28-2 highway patrolman or a model 27-2
both fine .357's N-frames I have a 4 inch 28-2 and a 3 1/2"
27-2. Fine weapons.
Andy is right also mdl 66's are k frames


chuck

 

[arjay]

Take look at the combat magnum ( pre 19 k frame) and the pre 27 ( n frame ) from the 1950 s.Can't go wrong with either or both!

 

[dwpmusic]

Oooppps, got my frames mixed up. Thinks for correcting me. Hard to keep J,K,L,N,X from getting mixed up. I'll do some research on the models you guys suggested. Lots to learn on my end. Thanks for having patience with me.

 

[TDC]

If I were you I'd focus on early pinned and recessed N frames. They tend to be less costly if and when you can find them than new production and have the added benefit of increasing collector interest and growing investment value. You can shoot them and still expect to get all your investment back if you keep them nice should you later decide to trade or sell.

Those to look for but becoming increasingly more difficult to find are:

A 27 or 28 in a 4 or 6". (Not as hard to find as the 3.5 and 5" guns)

A 57 4" or 6" (Good luck finding a 4")

A 25 6.5" (Fewer made than the other calibers but fewer chasing them too.)

A 29 4" or 6.5" (Good luck finding either today and that goes for the others mentioned.)

I mention these because they will keep you busy with the search and you won't find them often enough to keep you continually bankrupt. Expect to find rather heated competition for all of them but when you do find one it will become a special treasure to you....

JMHO

 

[dwpmusic]

Thanks Terry. At least I'll have fun looking.

 

[andyo5]

The deal with .357 S&W revolvers is this:
N frame - the original version and built to withstand the stress of full power magnums for extended shooting.
K frame - a lighter gun and easier to carry. Made to be carried more than shot. The forcing cones have a tendency to crack with extended shooting of full power loads, due to the flattened off area of the forcing cone (look at yours).
L frame - a stronger gun than the K frame. No flattened forcing cone. A weight compromise between K and N frames.

I will again do some touting of the 627-5 Pro. It has the strength of the N frame, but with a lightened 4" barrel it is still easier to carry than a full weight N frame. And the balance is perfect. Mine is the most accurate .357 that I have ever shot, and this includes both my 6" M686 and my 6" GP100.
New S&W revolvers not as good as old ones? I don't think so!

 

[dwpmusic]

Thanks Andy. I'm not in any hurry. I'll have fun looking and if and when I find one of these models at a fair price I'll try to pick it up. What, in your opinion, makes the new Smiths not as good as the old one?