K-22 help
- Thread starter Warf Rat
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OutAtTheEdge
Member
Assume you mean you're having trouble getting the sideplate off? In that case, you obviously want to make sure you remove the stocks and sideplate screws with a proper fitting screwdriver. At that point, with the hammer down, or uncocked, hold the gun firmly with the sideplate facing up, and rap firmly on the gripframe (not the sideplate) with a hard wood or plastic rod. I use the handle of a hammer. One or two raps should jar the sideplate loose.
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Protocall_Design
Member
The hammer block is usually the culprit here. It has to stay in the up position until the sideplate is seated. To facilitate this, put the hb in place, then roll the grip upward, keeping the top of the gun on the bench. Gravity will help hold the hb in the up position. Get the sideplate on, then you can lay the gun flat again and put the screws in.
Protocall_Design
Member
The following information is for target shooting guns ONLY. Duty and carry guns should ALWAYS stay in factory configuration.
I personally use a headless socket set screw #8-32 (3/8" long for round butt, 1/2" l. for square butt) and clean hole and screw with solvent, then apply #222 low strength Loctite on all threads, assemble, and clean up any excess. Once the Loctite sets up you can adjust the screw to wherever you want it and it will stay there. Without the Loctite, the screw will gradually walk out with the flexing of the mainspring. A stock strain screw will do the same if not tightened to the head.
I shoot all Federal primers, so I have a known starting point of 28 oz. of hammer pull tension. Then shoot live ammo until there are no misfires. I usually end up with around 32 oz. of hammer pull, as measured with a trigger pull gage on the hammer, with the trigger held back. Every gun is slightly different than every other one. I will increase the strain screw tension in 1/8 turn increments. That ends up being about 4 oz. at a time. Then later, if I get even 1 misfire in 100, I will dial it up another 1/8 turn for insurance.
You can do this way for any kind of primers, according to what you have or can get, whether factory or reloads, you will just end up with different numbers. I drill a small access hole in the grip, so if there's a misfire in a match, I can easily make an adjustment on the spot with no disassembly required.
After the hammer force is all set, I find the lightest rebound spring that will return the trigger the way I want it to. Then the action is as light as it can be with your ammo (primers). I am running all 11 LB. Wolff rebound spring. A heavier mainspring setting will require a heavier rebound spring.
I personally use a headless socket set screw #8-32 (3/8" long for round butt, 1/2" l. for square butt) and clean hole and screw with solvent, then apply #222 low strength Loctite on all threads, assemble, and clean up any excess. Once the Loctite sets up you can adjust the screw to wherever you want it and it will stay there. Without the Loctite, the screw will gradually walk out with the flexing of the mainspring. A stock strain screw will do the same if not tightened to the head.
I shoot all Federal primers, so I have a known starting point of 28 oz. of hammer pull tension. Then shoot live ammo until there are no misfires. I usually end up with around 32 oz. of hammer pull, as measured with a trigger pull gage on the hammer, with the trigger held back. Every gun is slightly different than every other one. I will increase the strain screw tension in 1/8 turn increments. That ends up being about 4 oz. at a time. Then later, if I get even 1 misfire in 100, I will dial it up another 1/8 turn for insurance.
You can do this way for any kind of primers, according to what you have or can get, whether factory or reloads, you will just end up with different numbers. I drill a small access hole in the grip, so if there's a misfire in a match, I can easily make an adjustment on the spot with no disassembly required.
After the hammer force is all set, I find the lightest rebound spring that will return the trigger the way I want it to. Then the action is as light as it can be with your ammo (primers). I am running all 11 LB. Wolff rebound spring. A heavier mainspring setting will require a heavier rebound spring.
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I stopped using a scale to weigh revolver trigger pulls a long time ago - I go by feel now as I have done so many over the years and know what will work and what won't. Remember that .22 RF revolvers require a bit more force to set off the primers than it does on a center fire caliber. Therefore, when setting the main spring tension leave it a bit on the heavier side to insure good hits and a reliable revolver. When buying the 8-32 machine screws get a bunch of them so if you screw up you have extra.
As Protocall Design states, only do this on dedicated target shooting revolvers! If you make a mistake don't worry - targets don't shoot back.
As Protocall Design states, only do this on dedicated target shooting revolvers! If you make a mistake don't worry - targets don't shoot back.
Protocall_Design
Member
The DA trigger pull on a new gun will be around 12 lb. plus or minus. There are many variables, every gun is a little bit different because of that.
The factory strain screw has a head that must be tightened down all the way. If it is left loose any at all, the screw will gradually back out as the mainspring flexes against it during normal operation of the action. For this reason, the screw has to be shortened to put less tension on the mainspring.
The set screw has no head. It's all threads. It has a screwdriver slot or hex socket on one end to turn it with. That is why you need the Loctite to make it stay where you adjust it to. You can use the #222 purple low strength or #242 blue medium strength. These allow for easy adjustments after they cure. You make it longer or shorter by screwing it in or out.
Different brands of primers need a lighter or heavier hammer strike to set them off. You can have a lighter reliable trigger pull by using primers that fire with a lighter strike. On the lighter end of the scale, Federal is the lightest, Winchester is a little heavier. On the heavy end are CCI and Remington. The foreign brands are in the middle to heavy range.
The trigger pull is the total weight of the action with all of the components involved. The hammer pull weight is just the amount of tension that the mainspring imparts to the hammer. By weighing just the hammer pull, you are isolating it from the rest of the action and you can see the amount of impact the hammer will have on the primer.
For Federal primers, you will need around 32 oz. of hammer pull, which translates to 6 to 7 lb. of trigger pull, depending on what rebound spring is in there. For Winchester primers, you will need around 44 oz. of hammer pull, which gives you 7 to 8 lb. of trigger pull. For CCI or Remington primers, you will need 68 to 72 oz of hammer pull, which puts you in the 11 to 12 pound trigger pull range. All numbers are approximate, due to the many variables in spring manufacture, amount of bend in the mainspring, variations of all the parts in the gun, etc.
All the 22 rimfire ammo will end up with an 8 to 12 lb. trigger pull, depending on brand of ammo.
The factory strain screw has a head that must be tightened down all the way. If it is left loose any at all, the screw will gradually back out as the mainspring flexes against it during normal operation of the action. For this reason, the screw has to be shortened to put less tension on the mainspring.
The set screw has no head. It's all threads. It has a screwdriver slot or hex socket on one end to turn it with. That is why you need the Loctite to make it stay where you adjust it to. You can use the #222 purple low strength or #242 blue medium strength. These allow for easy adjustments after they cure. You make it longer or shorter by screwing it in or out.
Different brands of primers need a lighter or heavier hammer strike to set them off. You can have a lighter reliable trigger pull by using primers that fire with a lighter strike. On the lighter end of the scale, Federal is the lightest, Winchester is a little heavier. On the heavy end are CCI and Remington. The foreign brands are in the middle to heavy range.
The trigger pull is the total weight of the action with all of the components involved. The hammer pull weight is just the amount of tension that the mainspring imparts to the hammer. By weighing just the hammer pull, you are isolating it from the rest of the action and you can see the amount of impact the hammer will have on the primer.
For Federal primers, you will need around 32 oz. of hammer pull, which translates to 6 to 7 lb. of trigger pull, depending on what rebound spring is in there. For Winchester primers, you will need around 44 oz. of hammer pull, which gives you 7 to 8 lb. of trigger pull. For CCI or Remington primers, you will need 68 to 72 oz of hammer pull, which puts you in the 11 to 12 pound trigger pull range. All numbers are approximate, due to the many variables in spring manufacture, amount of bend in the mainspring, variations of all the parts in the gun, etc.
All the 22 rimfire ammo will end up with an 8 to 12 lb. trigger pull, depending on brand of ammo.
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