K and L frame Reinforced Holster options

[KYGlock]

Thanks for that! Who is the maker on that last one? Can’t quite make it out...

 

[Kronos]

I dunno what your tastes are in holster material but for myself I've found that the synthetic holsters best like kydex or even nylon over leather for the most part or a combination of some sort like my Alien Gear leather/kydex IWB which if you want I can post a picture it's just a hair short for the barrel but ey S&W went to a 4.25 inch...

There's a couple full kydex K frame holsters I may try.

 

[hotshot357]

I bought a stainless steel reinforced holster for my SSR from Denny Reichard @ the Sand Burr Gun Ranch. He helped design the holster along with the owner of Horseshoe Hill Leather. He is a competitor so Denny knows what a good holster needs to be. It will last a lifetime & look good doing it!!! Give him a call @ 574-223-3316.

 

[Borderboss]

Here's my favorite pancake holster for a 3" K/L frame. It's a Bianchi I've had for years. Note the polish on the cylinder area, accomplished by my shirt or jacket rubbing against it for a long time...I think that's a wonderful enhancement.

I'm really surprised that this holster holds the gun in place securely given how low the belt loops are to the cylinder. That makes the majority of the weight of the gun above the belt. I've seen that cause the top of the gun/holster want to cant outward away from the body because the weight is pivoting on the belt. This is why a previous post noted to get a holster where the belt is in alignment with the cylinder, the primary weight of the revolver.

 

[Borderboss]

Conclusion of today's tests: I feel that these holsters need to be stretched a bit more, that maybe my choice of lining has changed the inside dimensions significantly, or that they were designed for different S&W models on the same frame. The N frame holster will be useful for the L and possibly K carry, but I can't use the K frame holster yet unless I can somehow stretch it.

I wouldn't be surprised if the holster just needs to be stretched out a bit. New, high quality leather holsters have always gripped a gun pretty tightly in my experience. The holster needs a break in that will loosen it up a bit. There are a variety of methods that people have for this. Personally, I put the gun in the holster and twist it back and forth pretty forcefully for a couple of minutes. This has always resulted in loosening it up enough to carry the gun well but to also respond when I want to draw the gun.

 

[Gene L]

Thanks for that! Who is the maker on that last one? Can’t quite make it out...

Cebeci Arms.

 

[Gene L]

I'm really surprised that this holster holds the gun in place securely given how low the belt loops are to the cylinder. That makes the majority of the weight of the gun above the belt. I've seen that cause the top of the gun/holster want to cant outward away from the body because the weight is pivoting on the belt. This is why a previous post noted to get a holster where the belt is in alignment with the cylinder, the primary weight of the revolver.

Cants forward, holds the gun very tight to the body. It's an old Bianchi holster, probably still available today.

 

[Rugerrev]

Have a PISTOL BELT!

 

[Cal-MI]

Most leather items require a break-in period to be flexible enough. Maybe a LITTLE Neatsfoot oil would also help.

 

[armprairie]

Soak it like John Bianchi recommends!

I never use a new holster until I follow the procedure that John Bianchi recommended in his older book and also recommended by Elmer Keith and many of the old gun writers. First you soak the holster in water. That can be in a kitchen sink with a little mild detergent or in a horse trough with plain water. In the interim grease your gun well. The leather needs to be well soaked, so waiting an hour or more is good, but some guys leave it in overnight. Pull the holster out of the water and pat it dry with a towel. You can slip the greased gun into a baggie if you want or wrap it with Saran Wrap. I don't. Slip the gun into the holster. Now mold the leather to the gun with your fingers and the heel of your hand. Wait a few minutes then remove the gun and dry it off. Wait an hour or so and repeat the process. Do this again as you see progress. Let it sit overnight without the gun in it. I usually don't do anything to artificially speed drying. Next morning repeat the process if it's still damp.
What you are trying to do is what boning tries to do but can't because they don't have your gun. There are a lot of variations in K frames, shroud or no shroud, sights, barrel contour etc.
When the holster is dry, it should fit your gun perfectly, but you do want it to grip the gun firmly.
I've had many El Paso holsters and never had a problem with any when I follow this procedure and have a belt the same width as the slots.

 

[KertP]

KYGlock: I own and regularly use several El Paso Leather tortilla holster like the one you have. Mine are for K and N-frame S&W's, and a Colt Anaconda and 1911. I love them, but they do require you to use them in order to break them in. Until I broke them in, I stored the particular firearm in them in my safe. Makes break-in quicker.
If you want an IWB holster, I suggest the Thomas Perfectionist as made by Kramer Handgun Leather. Best IWB for large frame revolvers that I have found. They aren't cheap, though.

Kramer Leather - Thomas Perfectionist Gun Holster

The basketweave El Paso tortilla holsters are great BBQ holsters for those Sunday afternoon BBQs with your gun buddies.

 

[Oracle]

Thanks very much! A lot of good advice there. Both holsters are brand new. I may give El Paso a call to see what they think. Beautiful work, but there’s definitely one position where that thing would give you the ol atomic wedgie from grade school before releasing the gun! Some one in the concealed carry area said corn starch as a release agent, and someone mentioned we 40. Seems like I shouldn’t have to do that, other than stretching a bit with the gun in there. Does anyone else break in a new holster using something like that?

Before you resort to putting anything on the leather try this; wrap the gun in plastic maybe a wrap or two, then stuff the gun into the holster and let it sit a day. Unwrap the gun and try the holster again, if it is still sticking wrap the gun again and repeat. The plastic expands the leather slightly, you will get a decent fit.

 

[KYGlock]

Well, here’s an update. I tried a 6” Nickel model 10 in that K frame holster today and it works very well compared to the 66 2.75”. Someone mentioned that among the different frames the model is critical to holster fit. Boy is that correct! I will try to stretch the K holster using the plastic bag method first and will let you know how it turns out. Thanks very much for all the recommendations and holster advice. I am slowly checking all the makers that have been shared to see what I may want to try next. Appreciate it gents!

 

[crstrode]

Well, here’s an update. I tried a 6” Nickel model 10 in that K frame holster today and it works very well compared to the 66 2.75”.

Have you noticed that the 6-inch gun is a lot longer than the 2.75-inch gun?

 

[KYGlock]

Not sure what is meant by that Last comment, but a 617 4” and a 66 2.75” are both too tight. Holster is a 4” so you would think the 627 would work fine. I think it’s different hammer/differences in frame design as someone mentioned previously

 

[gusui77]

Not sure what is meant by that Last comment, but a 617 4” and a 66 2.75” are both too tight. Holster is a 4” so you would think the 627 would work fine. I think it’s different hammer/differences in frame design as someone mentioned previously

A think a couple of folks are trying to suggest that you shouldn't be too surprised at issues with fit, etc. for a shorter barreled revolver in a holster meant for a longer barreled revolver, but I'm no holster expert myself.

 

[KYGlock]

I wouldn't be surprised if the holster just needs to be stretched out a bit. New, high quality leather holsters have always gripped a gun pretty tightly in my experience. The holster needs a break in that will loosen it up a bit. There are a variety of methods that people have for this. Personally, I put the gun in the holster and twist it back and forth pretty forcefully for a couple of minutes. This has always resulted in loosening it up enough to carry the gun well but to also respond when I want to draw the gun.

Thanks for all the helpful advice everyone. I wanted to come back to this thread and post an update. Before the issue woth the draw started, I had stored a K frame in that holster thinking that alone would stretch it and prepare it for carry. After reading the advice in this thread, I pressed the leather around the gun, twisting slightly, and continued to store the gun in the holster. After a day or 2, the fit was just fine, easy to draw. I put the holster on and off my belt several times to ensure repeatability. I would have gone to the Bianchi wet break in as a next step, but not needed. Thanks very much for all the advice, hope y’all have a great Thanksgiving. I’ll be carrying a K or N frame in my home state, with one of these new EPS holsters thanks to you.