K-Frame Target Trigger / Hammer Swap - Stoning

p8riot

US Veteran
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Messages
510
Reaction score
1,123
Location
Chesterfield County, VA
I have a really nice model 15-3 (below) that I shoot well, but am thinking about changing the standard trigger and hammer for a .500 target set. I have a line on a matched case hardened set removed from the same donor K-frame gun. I am assuming that since they came from the same gun they would probably have matched mating surfaces and may not require stoning. If they do, I have a set of Arkansas stones I can use for that purpose.

I have seen the Midway USA video on stoning triggers and hammers, and he uses a jig to orient the hammer for stoning. Is the jig really necessary since I would most likely only use it this one time?

fc498d1372105487ae2f287db2a1daa4.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
Before I would touch any surface with a stone,,, jig or not,,
I would simply install the trigger and hammer and see what the results were.

I took a gun smithing class, and spent a half dozen classes slicking up my 629,,,
I never touched the sear surfaces.

The 629 is my sweetest S&W!! :D
 
What makes you think that the hammer or trigger needs stoning? or that any problem would be solved by stoning the hammer or trigger? Did they do something that they oughtn't have, and the Bible prescribes such?

The most likely problem is with the DA sear (part of the hammer assembly). You are NOT guaranteed such a problem, but if it occurs, it is usually solved by swapping sears so that the original DA sear is used with the frame it came with. If that doesn't work (it probably will), take it to a gunsmith, or buy a Kuhnhausen book and don't screw up your revolver until you know what you're doing (screwing up your revolver).

A police armorer or other qualified individual may chime in here to give you a more technical or more accurate (or both) explanation of what is at stake here.
 
Thanks for all of the responses. I guess I was just assuming that there was a possibility of needing to dress up the contact surfaces a little. Not even sure that I am going to go this route. Gun is perfect as it is. Didn't mean to waste anyone's time.
 
p8riot-You might look at the sides of the hammer and trigger for burrs
where they ride on the frame and side plate, if they aren't smooth
I would lightly stone the sides for a smooth surface.
A spring kit with a lighter main spring and rebound spring make a
very smooth trigger pull for double action, stone the sides of the rebound slide
to make it a little smoother. Too little stoning is better than too much!:)
Very nice looking model 15 you have!
Ed
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all of the responses. I guess I was just assuming that there was a possibility of needing to dress up the contact surfaces a little. Not even sure that I am going to go this route. Gun is perfect as it is. Didn't mean to waste anyone's time.

Wasn't a waste of time by any means. You got some good information, others may have pondered similar thoughts. Tossing ideas out for consideration and input is a great way to get information and make informed decisions.
 
Totally Valid Question.

Thanks for all of the responses. I guess I was just assuming that there was a possibility of needing to dress up the contact surfaces a little. Not even sure that I am going to go this route. Gun is perfect as it is. Didn't mean to waste anyone's time.

You didn't waste anyone's time. Swapping triggers and hammers can go either way. Way back when, S&W used to sell TT's and TH's in blister packs at dealers, tt was no big deal to swap narrow trigger/hammer sets for wide target sets. I did it and they fit and worked perfectly. Nowadays one has to scrounge for TT's and TH's from all kinds of sources, especially if you want forged ones, not ugly MIM. If you want to upgrade, then by all means do it. In the worst case you will not mess up your revolver, but perhaps only a DA sear. Anyone of moderate mechanical inclination can look at the mechanism and make the minor polishing and fitting adjustments, especially when you have the functioning old parts to watch work. That's how I did subsequent sets that I scrounged up from various sources with perfect results.
 
P8riot, you did not tell us why you want the target trigger and hammer, so I am not sure if you are looking for opinions on these parts, but I will offer my thoughts.

I don't like a target trigger or a target hammer on a gun I intend to shoot. I certainly respect that many collectors prefer these parts, and some people do prefer them to shoot with, but for me there are disadvantages. I really don't like a wide trigger for shooting double action. I don't like it much for single action either, but for double action it really does not fit my finger. I don't think I have ever heard someone who prefers a wide trigger for double action shooting, though I am sure there are some people like it.

I am more ambivalent about the target hammer, but I still don't need one. I don't have any trouble cocking a standard hammer for single action, and in double action the heavier target hammer can require slightly more mainspring strength than a lighter hammer.

Overall, I feel that the target parts are designed for single action shooting, but are not that well suited for double action. Since I do a substantial amount of double action, I want parts that work well for either style of shooting.

I also recognize that since many people think that the target trigger and hammer are desirable, the parts have good value. The matched set of hammer and trigger that you described are worth a fair bit in the current market, so if I was installing them, I would want to be sure that it was done properly.

Since you said that the parts are a matched pair from a similar gun, I think that it is reasonable to try installing them and see if they work properly. This is assuming that you are well familiar with doing a full disassembly on a S&W revolver. However, if the parts don't just work right away, then I would recommend having a gunsmith complete the installation. Once stoning parts is required, there is always the risk of making things worse if you don't know exactly where to cut.
 
The FASTEST way to ruin a S&W Hammer & Trigger "set" it to stone it! IMO NO stoning should ever be done to the engagement surfaces of these parts as they are only hardened a FEW thousandths deep. Stone them and you cut through that hardening and after a short while you will develope "push off".

If you have a "set" that was originally together they should work just fine - however might require some minor fitting but NOT on the engagement surfaces.
 
I don't like a target trigger or a target hammer on a gun I intend to shoot. I certainly respect that many collectors prefer these parts, and some people do prefer them to shoot with, but for me there are disadvantages. I really don't like a wide trigger for shooting double action. I don't like it much for single action either, but for double action it really does not fit my finger. I don't think I have ever heard someone who prefers a wide trigger for double action shooting, though I am sure there are some people like it.
I agree, but also wonder if the serrations are the problem. I really do not like either the narrow or the wide trigger serrations, although I am too much of a collector to think of grinding them off as has been suggested to me on other threads.
 
You don't need a jig. But you do need to know what you are doing.Polish surfaces that move against each other, but leave the sear alone.
 
I always thought the .500 target hammer and trigger were case harden and can not be touched with a stone
You can touch them, you just lose the case hardening if you cut too deep, leaving soft steel, more susceptible to corrosion. But I think it is not an uncommon practice for the narrow serrated triggers.
 
Please think of what intended use this revolver will have. If it is a range gun and will always be shot single action slow fire maybe you would be happy with the .500" trigger. If you shoot the gun double action at all or for self defense it is not recommended to use the wide .500" trigger. Try it and you will see what I mean, it is not condusive to DA shooting at all, UNLESS you grind the serrations from the surface, and round off contour the edges of the trigger. Then you may like using it in DA.
 
I bought my EDC 19-4 snub years ago and it had a target trigger and hammer. It did not take long before I found replacements for both, on this Forum, they are hard on you when shooting long range sessions double action. I swapped the trigger out and have not found the time or inclination to do the same with the hammer. I guess I will get around to it.... someday.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top