K22 Outdoorsman trigger question

[Frieda's Boss]

I recently purchased my first Smith from this era, a beautiful K22 Outdoorsman, which I plan on shooting alot. My question is about the trigger, and its return forward after pulling and releasing it...I have no experience with pre-war S&Ws, so maybe this is normal, but in dry firing it a few times(with snap caps, of course), the trigger return seemed very slow and weak to me. Certainly very slow compared to a modern Smith. It felt like the spring barely had enough power to push the trigger back to its forward position.

So two questions about this. Is this normal? Assuming not, what's my path forward for troubleshooting/fixing? I hope there is just gummed up oil in there, but not sure the best way to remedy that. I have some hollow ground bits, and know how to remove a sideplate, but have only done it on modern S&Ws. Don't know what I don't know about sideplates on guns like this. Thoughts from the S&W brain trust?

I don't have any good pics yet, hope to get some soon & post a thread here, but in the meantime because I know how we all love pics, here are a couple that I took really quick between picking up the gun and heading to work.

 

[JP@AK]

Others may have different ideas, but I think what I would try first is this:
1. Make certain it is unloaded!
2. Remove the stocks.
3. Cock the hammer.
4. Hold it over a pan to catch all drippage.
5. Squirt a quantity of CLP (or similar product) down into the action from in front of the hammer.
6. See what comes out the bottom into the pan. I suspect there is a bunch of dry oil in the action.
7. Only if this process doesn't resolve the problem, consider carefully taking the revolver apart (sideplate first).

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Others may have different ideas, but I think what I would try first is this:
1. Make certain it is unloaded!
2. Remove the stocks.
3. Cock the hammer.
4. Hold it over a pan to catch all drippage.
5. Squirt a quantity of CLP (or similar product) down into the action from in front of the hammer.
6. See what comes out the bottom into the pan. I suspect there is a bunch of dry oil in the action.
7. Only if this process doesn't resolve the problem, consider carefully taking the revolver apart (sideplate first).

5. Aerosol carb/brake/parts cleaner.

 

[Fullmetaljacket]

Sounds like it is just gummed up with decades of dried oil. Betting a thorough cleaning will solve your problem. Assuming you know how to take it apart (if you don't I recommend the Jerry Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual) give it a good soak/degreasing and try again. I had a model 1955 from that very year that was so gummed up the hammer took several seconds to fall when pulling the trigger in single action mode. A good cleaning and all was well.
Good luck!

 

[Truckman]

Part of my normal cleaning routine is an overnight soak in a two gallon bucket of WD-40, followed by a spray-out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner (I buy the Denco brand by the case at Amazon)...The CLP treatment beforehand sounds like a good additional step in getting rid of dried oil residue......Ben

 

[Mbrgr1]

Yes!

Probably just gummy/dry inside, just remember, once you have removed sideplate screws carefully, do NOT pry the sideplate up to remove, hold it in your hand, plate side up and tap on the grip frame with plastic or wood dowel or screwdriver handle and the sideplate will release.


My recent 38/455 acquisition was very dirty inside, cleaned up nicely...


Good looking gun you have there!

 

[Frieda's Boss]

Probably just gummy/dry inside, just remember, once you have removed sideplate screws carefully, do NOT pry the sideplate up to remove, hold it in your hand, plate side up and tap on the grip frame with plastic or wood dowel or screwdriver handle and the sideplate will release.


My recent 38/455 acquisition was very dirty inside, cleaned up nicely...


Good looking gun you have there!

Thanks for the advice, as well as compliment on the gun! I am aware of never prying a sideplate, but instead tapping the bottom of the grip frame with a plastic or wooden mallet or the like. My concern about the sideplate, I suppose, was more that if it has never been removed, will the seam ever look as smooth once I remove it. I assume from your post that this is not something that I need to worry about?

Planning on cleaning it up this weekend, putting some ren wax on it & trying to get some good pics!

 

[Mbrgr1]

Thanks for the advice, as well as compliment on the gun! I am aware of never prying a sideplate, but instead tapping the bottom of the grip frame with a plastic or wooden mallet or the like. My concern about the sideplate, I suppose, was more that if it has never been removed, will the seam ever look as smooth once I remove it. I assume from your post that this is not something that I need to worry about?

Planning on cleaning it up this weekend, putting some ren wax on it & trying to get some good pics!

Tap on the top gently not the bottom, the plate will gently release and not go flying off and no worries about the clean lines, it does not take much, gentle taps, it is amazing how easy it is once accomplished...

 

[series guy]

I just walked in the door from a trip to the gun club. While I was there a retired sheriffs deputy asked me to look at his Model 65. The trigger would not move and the hammer could not be cocked. I took it apart and it was dry as dust inside and had a fair amount of fouling throughout the action. I don’t believe any amount of spraying with the gun in one piece would have removed the crud from the crevices. That said some spray cleaner and lube may help your situation but there is no substitute for a thorough detail cleaning with the gun in pieces.

 

[Frieda's Boss]

Thanks for all the replies! I ordered a copy of the S&W Shop Manual, which should be here next week. Going to hold off on taking it apart until then, just to be safe. I'm familiar with modern Smiths & know them inside & out, but again, don't know what I don't know about a pre-war.

So I will get the action cleaned up sometime in the next couple of weeks. Meantime, I am planning on spending this rainy weekend cleaning up some guns, so will get my new Outdoorsman looking pretty & come back here to post some better pictures.

 

[handejector]

I'm familiar with modern Smiths & know them inside & out, but again, don't know what I don't know about a pre-war.

Then you will love the Pre-War design. It is easier than the Post-War design. The hammer block is permanently mounted in the sideplate. You don't have to fool around with having it in the exact position needed to install the sideplate. DO NOT try to remove the hammer block from the sideplate!

 

[Frieda's Boss]

Then you will love the Pre-War design. It is easier than the Post-War design. The hammer block is permanently mounted in the sideplate. You don't have to fool around with having it in the exact position needed to install the sideplate. DO NOT try to remove the hammer block from the sideplate!

Thanks for that advice...noted! Like I said, I'll get around to cleaning the inside of it in the next couple of weeks. For now, can't wait to get her looking good this weekend for some better pics and a thread to show off a bit. Been drooling over yall's guns on here for years, glad to finally have something to show. Of course, cannot wait to get it out to the range soon as well!

 

[H Richard]

Seeing as it is a Target pistol, there is a possibility someone in the past may have cut a coil or two off the rebound spring, as well as the crud build up over the years. When you have it cleaned up you should be able to tell. Replacement springs are easily available.