K22 Trigger question

[kadams]

My recently acquired K22, Has the slightest amount of creep at the beginning of the single action pull, The single action pull breaks at 3.5lbs afterwards and breaks cleanly, How is this issue corrected and what might be a cause I would'nt attempt to fiddle with it myself, but would like to know what a smith could or would do to correct it if i should choose to go that route.

thanks

 

[mh51]

Try loading the cylinder with snap caps or fired cases. Then cock the hammer and apply some forward pressure to it as you pull the trigger. This will help mate the surfaces of the hammer and trigger, and will sometimes take out that creep without any further work.

 

[kadams]

So i tried this a 8-10 times it periodically helps, should this be done X? number of times, before you know this exercise will provide a solution for the problem, I'm just wondering how much of this I should do without causing any damage?

thanks

 

[SweetMK]

Some people watch a TV show,, and do it the whole show,,

It is called breaking in,,
or, you can shoot a couple 3 bricks of ammo,,

 

[kadams]

I normally do the 2-3 bricks with a new gun, to get things slick, didn't think this was a break in issue as its a 1951 K22, and I never did any dry firing while applying pressure to the hammer, I though it would have been broken in by Now, But we will see, thanks for all the info

 

[H Richard]

You mentioned K22, is this a vintage K22? If this is a new 17 or 617, the above information is helpful. If this is a vintage K22, it is probably old crud that needs to be cleaned out and re-lubed. A careful disassembly of all parts and scrubbing clean and re-assembly with proper lube should help.

 

[series guy]

I just fixed this issue on a new Model 617 yesterday. The Kuhnhausen book covers the correct angle to stone the trigger to correct this. Doesn’t take much. I fixed it with three short strokes on a diamond stone.

 

[MTC(SS)Ret]

My 17-2 (1965) did the same when I first purchased it. I removed the stocks and side plate and found it was gummed up with old oil. Being new to revolvers I was hesitant to attempt to disassemble it for a thorough cleaning but found some excellent videos on youtube thanks to members here and, following them, tried it. I was rewarded with a gun that now has a smooth DA and a very crisp SA trigger.

 

[kadams]

Well, I am going to shoot it bunch at first opportunity, and dry fire around the house until then, I have never opened up any of my revolvers, afraid to mar something up, but i have worked on my own shotguns and semi auto rifles etc. cant be that difficult to open and clean it up real good at least, I need a recommendation on a good set of screw drivers. That wont booger the screws.

 

[SweetMK]

If you have never opened a S&W,,
seek out someone to show you how the first time,,

It is a little tricky,, and ,,,,,,,,,

NO PRYING ALLOWED!!

When you see it,, you will say,, OHHHHH OK,,,,

Trust me,, you will be thankful,,

 

[rct269]

This from a S&W catalog, more or less of the same vintage as your gun---and if it isn't of the same vintage, it for damn sure is the same action.

"Occasional oiling is absolutely necessary to keep a revolver in fine working condition-----------------." "------------this is best accomplished by removing the sideplate on the right hand side of the arm."

Having never done this, you are doing yourself and your gun(s) a GREAT disservice!!

As scary as it might look the first time you remove the sideplate---wth NO prying as mentioned earlier, it isn't! As suggested above, get someone to help you----or better yet, get a book. The Kuhnhausen book is the best there is---never mind it can be a little scary---just looking at it. When you actually sit down, and go step by step, it gets real easy real fast!!

Here's a rather popular cleaning and oiling procedure you should NEVER do!! Cock the hammer and fire a spray can of cleaner down the hole in front of the hammer---followed by a big gob of oil down the same hole. First of all the spray can stuff isn't made to clean guns, it's made to sell to folks who don't know how to clean guns. Next, a big gob of oil is very likely to be about 100 times more oil than that recommended---by the folks WHO MAKE the guns! That goes like this: "Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary----------." A small amount of lubricant is ONE DROP for each one of the things that move. (I cheat, and use TWO drops for the rebound slide ----one under, and one behind.)

THE BEST gun oil is that from Wilson Combat. It's called Ultima-Lube II. I like to think of it as an oil/grease combination because it stays where you put it. It isn't of course, but it seems like everybody understands that description.

Finally, the first time you do the deed----open it up, take it apart, clean it, and put it back together might very well be a little nerve racking. The next time will be about as nerve racking as opening a can of beer!

Ralph Tremaine

One other thing---maybe two: Use a PROPER screwdriver. A PROPER screwdriver has a hollow ground blade that fits the width AND the length of the slot!! Screwdrivers with wedge shaped blades are made to booger screws. Another thing that helps to booger screws is a dirty screw slot. Tooth picks are great screw slot cleaners---especially the plastic ones.

Finally, Brownells has a S&W Combination Set of screwdrivers------one handle, 2-3-4 bits (whatever) for lunch money.