K32 build....

shovelwrench

shovelwrench

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SO I'm starting a new K-frame .32 build....

My question is, will a '57 K22 cylinder handle the pressures of a .327 Federal Magnum!?!?!?

Is there any reason not to make this a .32 Mag, or .327??

I'm building this to be a target gun, but am leaning towards a magnum caliber just for versatility.


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series guy,

Would you happen to know the vintage of your cylinder??

And do you experience any difficulty in extraction with the .327 loads?

Thanks

Nice revolver!!
 
The .22 cyl should be OK. Had Andy Horvath build me 2 .32's but went with the .32 long. Could have used the 327 but he thought the gun would be more accurate done in ..32 long. Don't need the power of 327 since I shoot mostly target indoors. Doin it yourself will save money. Who is reboring the bbl for you? Larry
 
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No idea on the vintage of the cylinder. I would have no problems using the 1957 cylinder. Reaming for .32 still leaves a lot of wall thickness. Extraction has never been a problem but as I mentioned I don't load my rounds very hot. I can't imagine the gun being any more accurate.
 
I don't have any maximum pressure figures right in front of me, but just reading your post on what you want to build, IMHO, I wouldn't go any hotter than the 32 H&R Magnum cartridge. I would hazard an educated guess that with the right barrel the 32 H&R Mag is going to be potentially more accurate and a much more pleasant cartridge to shoot a lot. ....
 
The K32s produced in 32 H&R have been reamed out for 327 as well as the K22 cylinders. Both are the same diameter cylinders and have very acceptable safety margins according to the custom smiths that perform this work.

Metallurgy has not changed for those cylinders since 1945 when S&W substituted improved steel for their old heat treating process begun in 1920.
 
Thank you for the input everyone!!

Jebus35745,
I'm building this on a 10-8 and am probably going slabside barrel...

We'll see, its still a blank canvas at this point.
 
I went with a model 15 that I found on Gun Broker for cheap that was re-blued once. Always ask abt the timing before I bid, it was one of a bunch of ex-security guns the shop had. Went with the 15 so I could use the sights with no rib. Andy milled the bbl for a Weigand interchangeable front sight base. Saved money not buying a rib and I like the looks of not having a rib on it. He cut the bbl from 6" to 5" and slab-sided it. He used a 22 cyl to convert to .32. Really had no use for a .327 in a revolver but have brass for it. I'll eventually find a T/C contender bbl for it, hopefully a short rifle BBL.

Here are some pics, the other gun is a 25-2 he cut for me to 31/2". Andy"s crown looks factory. Larry
 

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Jebus35745,
Definitely like the look of the slabside!!!


I got almost 3' of barrel blank in the mail yesterday!!!!

PLENTY of blank to play around with, I'm considering turning it off center so more of the "meat" is under the bore, THEN slabsiding it..... I need to consider sight options before I start turning though.

Cylinder is all fit up, waiting on an extractor rod to show, I did'nt have a RH thread rod laying around.

Reamer for .327 is on its way, I'm also researching different methods for opening the cylinder up. If anyone has a method they use I'd like to hear about it!! (I'll probably start a thread just for that)


I'll try to remember to take pictures and update this thread as I progress....
 
What size pilot bushing does the reamer have? Floating or fixed?

Reaming a 'charge hole' is easier than a cyl chamber because it's already a consistent diameter all the way thru the cylinder. The 22 LR is about the only remaining cartridge with a heeled bullet and therefore uses a charge hole which makes an excellent pilot hole for a proper sized reamer bushing.

You can Google reaming and get more information than you ever wanted. But basically you want precise positioning and clamping of the cyl, slow speed in a vertical mill or stout drill press, and lubrication, lubrication, lubrication. Align your pilot on the reamer in the charge hole to position the cyl then clamp squarely in your worktable vise. Follow the original S&W chamber alignment. The less times you make a pass thru the chamber, the less chance you have of messing up the alignment.

To go from .22 to .32 doesn't require a great deal of material removal. So you can ream in one step with a finishing reamer. Therefore a relatively easy one pass ream job.

Have fun,
 
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I haven't received the reamer yet, but it is a floating pilot.

Coincidentally, I have a set of .22 pilots from barreling a 22-250. I'll have to get them out and see if there's one there that's big enough!!

Thanks, I hadn't considered reaming it in one pass.

I did do some googling, but sometimes there is just too much info to get it narrowed down to something specific.
 
Here is something to consider on the barrel. First turn a length of blank down to .540 and thread the end with 36 to the inch threads, so it will go into the frame and slightly past where the cylinder will be. Then take a K frame 38 barrel the length you want (available on Ebay if you don't have one from original donor frame). Drill it and ream it to .500. Then mark the new barrel piece where it goes into the frame. Then turn it down to .5005-.501 on the forward portion with a square shoulder where it goes from .5005 to .540. Then the barrel goes into a solution of kerosene and dry ice. This will shrink it. The frame goes into the oven at say 350f. It expands. Using heavy gloves quickly shove the 2 together. Have a extra length of barrel "liner" that is slightly tapered to guide the start. Should get a shrink fit that will stay forever. The shank that goes into the frame will be full sized and it will all be plenty strong and thick enough for a .312 bore. Way better than just putting a thin liner in a barrel IMHO. Basically just the exposed portion of the old barrel into a shroud to cover the new blank. I thought long and hard about making a K32 before I broke down and bought a 16-4

Reason I suggest this is because fitting the front lug is a real pain. I did the one on my 45 cal revolving carbine by machining one from an old barrel so that it went into a dovetail machined into the new barrel. Took some measuring and figuring to get it exactly the right height and location and blend into the barrel right.

I have never done this with a barrel, but it should work well. Have done it with some other things and it worked well. Common for fitting things on shafts.

If you need a tap to clean up the threads in frame or a die to clean up the threads cut on the shank let me know. I also have the tool to face of the shank for BC clearance and to cut the new forcing cone. I bought a tap for N and K frames and used them to make a chase die from A2 and hardened them.
 
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I have done some similar things in motorcycle shaft repairs as opposed to splitting cases and have had good luck with it.

The donor gun is a 4" heavy barrel, no adjustable sights. I'm considering machining for adjustables, I just haven't made my mind up yet. I might machine the barrel with Picatiny, or Bomar cut at the very rear (not sure if that would look attractive though).... DECISIONS DECISIONS!!!!

If I decide to go with stock adjustables, the barrel sleeve is definitely an excellent option!!

I'll let you know how the threads turn out, last revolver I barreled from a blank I had no problems with the threads on either half, but there is always that chance...
 
Thanks for all the great ideas

Since Smith & Wesson seems to have decided to not produce a "K" frame .327 Magnum I'll ask you if you think that a pre. M-18 is a good candidate for the .327 Magnum? Would love to have a "M-616" but do not have a proper stainless revolver so I am asking if the old K-22 with the 4" barrel is a suitable candidate? I'll ask also if there is a competent Gunsmith in my area who can and will perform the alterations with expertise and pride in his work?
 
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The Model 18 is a .22 LR, a rimfire cartridge. The .32 family are centerfires. It may take some good welder and a machinist to convert the M-18 to centerfire. I would look for a Model 15 to convert.
 
About 3 years ago I gave Andy Horvath a 6" K-22 and abt 9 months later I got a 5" .32 S&W long revolver back. He bushed the firing pin area and moved it to a centerfire position, even retained the rimfire floating firing pin. The hang up was re-boring the bbl to .32 cal. Well, the guy at Clearwater reboring died and not sure who does reboring now. The gun shoots great. It is possible to use a rimfire gun, Larry


Looks like the project .32 is coming along great. I'm jealous, your saving a lot of money doing this by yourself.
 
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