Knife Design Input

Wolf1775

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So I'm still on the quest for a fixed blade. Before y'all groan, I've actually narrowed it down to a couple production fixed blades, and I'm ready to pull the trigger depending on who's available. Vet bills for a service dog, however, had to be paid first, but only set me back a couple months on this project.

Meanwhile, I started drawing up some ideas on what I've found I want in a knife, and I figured I'd post here and on another forum for some input. If I can find someone who'd be willing to make the design (if it's good) for a fair price, then I may go that route, though I don't expect it to be cheap.

Here are the intended purposes:
-General cutting: Rope, 550 cord, cardboard, bags of dog food, tape, etc.
-EDC: On my person just about everywhere I can. If it's not on my person, it'll be in my daypack.
-Camping: Primarily food prep, cutting more rope, cutting more 550 cord, lighter bushcraft
-Hunting: Skinning, white tailed deer
-Field kit: 550 cord, cutting paper, cutting fabric, light prying
-Defensive: Secondary purpose to cutting, pistol and/or rifle will be my primary for defense. I just want to make it clear that it's not meant as a combat knife, and it's primary purpose is to cut whatever mundane thing I need it to cut.

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I've recently used this shape of handle and found it to be extremely comfortable and easy to control. I wouldn't want the handle scales to be overly thick, since I intend to have it on my person at all times (or near it). I was looking at both drop point and spear point and wanted some input on the pros/cons of them both for the above purposes. I figured spear point would be better if it were a longer blade and lend itself better to being part of my field kit and defensive purposes, which a drop point would be better overall for everything else. I had thought about a tanto point, but lost a lot of the curvature of the blade, which reduced it's usefulness as a general purpose knife (for me). I had also considered a reverse tanto to drop the point down towards the center, but just couldn't find an angle that looked good to me. Y'all might be able to make it work better than I could though.

Regarding the grind...
-Which grind lends itself to slicing and piercing
-Which grind helps retain lateral (?) strength for prying
-Which grind retains its edge well and can be sharpened without a huge amount of effort
-Not really meant for chopping or batoning

I'm also curious about:
-Adjusting the shape of the handle to make it good for cutting and thrusting motions
-What other grip shapes would lower the overall profile and still allow for a full grip?
-Which material would best suit a knife this size? I was looking at A2, D2, O1, and 1095 but am lost in the different varieties and heat treatments.
-Micarta vs G10 scales vs paracord
-How much this would cost to commission a knife maker to make? I'm imagining the material, heat treatment, and grind are the biggest factors in the pricing.

I'd love any feedback and visuals that'd help develop the design. I want to keep the blade and overall grip shapes as close as possible, provided the shapes aren't off the mark for what I'd want to use it for.
 
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To me the American tanto point, which is very little like the Japanese tanto, is a poor choice for a general purpose knife. I like a drop point blade 3.5 to 4.5 inches, .150 to .170 inch thick, in A2 or 1095. D2 seems like a real bear to sharpen. Good old 1095 is still fine steel.

For edge retention and ease of sharpening I prefer a convex grind. Any blade you sharpen much will eventually assume a convex profile, so why not start with one? I don't like hollow-ground blades much.

I really like canvas Micarta handles--nearly bombproof, with just enough texture to give a more secure hold when wet. Sawn Delrin is good for that, too.
 
I actually thought the sweep could be done better on the sketch and was planning on revising it after looking at it again. I agree, more gradual sweep would do better than what I have so far. I could probably do without the swedge and keep the spine flat, which would allow the grind to start higher, provided it doesn't remove overall strength as well.

I was thinking of a convex find as well since it seems to be the most robust and makes for a keen edge if done right. The only issue I have is that I'm unfamiliar with sharpening a convex grind and don't have any knives with one to practice with. I do like them though.

I keep hearing canvas micarta is awesome stuff, and haven't read anything that's better from a cost and quality standpoint.

I'll sketch an update and post it tonight.
 
There are good instructions on how to sharpen convex-ground blades to be found online. Some of my convex-edge knives could be stropped back to sharp on a piece of corrugated cardboard.
 
There's quite a few knives I plan on getting after building my AR-15 (still working on it). A Hinder Flashpoint, BRK Gunny, ESEE-3, and Fallkniven are all on that list. I'm pretty sure the Springbok is going to be at the top of the list once it's out. Meanwhile, I'm still going to draw up some designs since I'm actually having a lot of fun doing it.
 
For s***s and giggles I revised the design I had. This is actually turning into a fun hobby, and my wife is starting to get into it as well. I definitely have an interest in the upcoming Springbok, and the design is pretty damn close to what I'm looking for.

KYXYHJF.jpg


I think I'll try coming up with my idea of a good necker, fighter, and slicer next. In all reality, there are plenty of awesome designs already out there, so now it's just putting a personal touch on what I see and like. I'll try hammering down the different types of steels to see the best applications for them and how they stack against one another.
 
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Grayman knives

I actually have looked at them and really like how they look. However, I've been looking for a knife closer to the dimensions I have in the sketch. If I didn't mention Gray man Knives on my list of knives to get in the future, then my mistake since the Suenami is most definitely on my list.
 
Nice design you have drawn. A modified drop point is probably the most useful all a round design. A couple thoughts..

G-10 or Micarta would be a better choice than paracord. The paracord will be a problem keeping clean and dry when used for gutting game, for example.

Convex ground blades can be easily sharpened, and cut well - just do not use the traditional stone or crossed stick method, as that will alter the shape. Sharpening the edge on a slight abrasive material, placed on a mouse pad works well.

Non stainless steels will eventually darken and discolor. Wont effect cutting ability, but something to consider if you like a shiny blade.

I would not consider "prying" in any form with a good knife. I have several broken and chipped blades in my collection to remind me of that.

If you do a lot of rope cutting, you might want to consider a partially serrated blade.

Bark River, along with the Blackjack classic series are excellent knives for the money, and have most of the features you are looking for.

A good custom maker, who is not overly proud of his name, should be able to make you what you want for about $250 - $350, I would say.

Larry
 
Food for thought.

3 times a year, I host a weekend at Bark River Knives called the "Grind In".

It started as a little thing and now we have people fly in from just about everywhere. Had a couple come in from Belgium.

It goes from Friday Night to Sunday Afternoon.

"Official March Grind-In Thread" - - Powered by FusionBB

Check out the Bark River Knife Collector's Association at

The BRKCA | Bark River Knife Collector's Association

Over the 2 days you will design and build that knife, for around $225.
We will help you from beginning to end. We also have heat treated blanks and stock takeaway.

It's a great time, here is a link to a gallery of first time makers.

Bark River Knives :: Ice-In 2014 Knives

If you can get up there it would be the time of your life and I will personnaly make sure you go home with that knife.

The opportunity and invitation is open to anyone here.

Mike

As for your sketch it's looking like a TacOps more and more each day!, that's a good strong design. Your handle needs to be closer to 4.5". 3.5" is small for a work knife.

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Tac_Ops_4_6_8_Picture_zps09b6243d.jpg
 
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Mike, I just bookmarked the links and am going to talk it over with the Misses so we can plan on it. That sounds like it'd be a blast, and it's on my bucket list now.

I kept the handle at 3.5" and no shorter after measuring my hand, and that's the shortest where I'd get a full grip on it the way it's drawn. The curve adds a little more for the palm, and I made sure that my fingers would fit on in the concave curve of the inside. The blade length is capped at 3.5" as well since that's the length I'm finding a happy balance with what I'd use it for. After looking it over again, it's a personalized short Tac-Ops, which I thought was pretty amusing after thinking about it.

Tons of already well thought out and awesome designs done by guys with far more experience and wisdom than I have. Chances are if I come up with a sound design then it's very likely already been done, and all I'm doing is adding a slight variation to it to fit my likes and ergos a little more.

And now my ever growing list of things to get include:
-BRK Springbok
-BJK Tac-Ops 4
-Greyman Suenami
-Hinderer Flashpoint
-Fallkniven A1
-ESEE-3

This is going to be more expensive than firearms.
 
You could also donate it to someone who's only known cheap Chinese knockoffs. Or host a giveaway on a knife forum! I've noticed that it gets paid forward more times than not too.
 
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