Make the splice so if falls underneath the band. With the band hardware in place, you can't see the wood joint.
Cut and square the pieces and then use either wood dowels or I like to use threaded rod as dowel pins.
Drill the holes for the dowel pins in both pieces (stock and new forend) a little oversize. No need for a precision fit.
You're going to use epoxy bedding type conpound to glue everthing together and a little extra room for some epoxy and adjustment is helpful.
Fit the new forend bbl channel to the rifle while still a separate piece.
Get the separate forend piece to go on the rifle and slide into position in the splice with the band in position and able to be tightened.
Now epoxy the unit together. If you use pieces of threaded rod for reinforcement,,degrease them. I use 1/4" threaded rod for stuff like this. However deep drilled into each piece you feel comfortable with. 3 inches is good as far as I'm concerned.
** drill one or two small pressure release holes from the inside of the forend bbl channel down into the holes just drilled for the dowels. Don't go thru to the outside of the stock!
These small holes will allow air pressure and excess epoxy to bleed out in the glue process and avoid problems in allainment.
Put release compond on the band & screw and the bbl.
Epoxy the thing together. Tighten the band and tap the forend back into position tightly. Clamp the forend to the bbl in a couple of places to it doesn't wander around while the glue sets.
Check for straightness,,sometimes I make a small 'witness mark' or two between pieces w/a pencil so I can see if pressure is backing parts off or twisting them while they are setting.
It usually won't give you a hard time if you've done a decent job inletting & fitting and also drilled those small bleeder holes inside the forend.
Once it's all set,,carefully remove the clamps and the band (you did use enough release agent hopefully!.
Remove the wood from the metal. Inspect the joint to make sure it's solid.
You may have to reglue some voids if they appear in there. That can be done now as you close it back up again for the next step or later on.
Then replace it, put the band back on and tighten.
I'd put one clamp onto the new forend piece & bbl to keep the free hanging piece (at this point) in check.
Now go ahead and inlet the forend cap.
Once the cap is in place & straight,,then shape the excess wood between the two points (band and cap) to give the new forend the right profile.
Then stain or bleach and then stain, and finish to match the original.
Lot's of sporterized Military rifles can get their old look back with this process. I've done quite a few, though it does feel odd sometimes as I also remember the times when it was fashionable to do the cutting & sporterizing in the first place.
