JIMMAC
Member
I have read that you cannot run leadcast bullets through Glocks. Someone told me I cannot use lead bullets in my M&P 40 as well. Is this true?
lead bullets ok for M&P?
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JIMMAC
Member
I have read that you cannot run leadcast bullets through Glocks. Someone told me I cannot use lead bullets in my M&P 40 as well. Is this true?
That's all I have ever run through either of mine. Been using Missouri bullets 180gr.TC with green dot. As far as leading goes, I do get a little. Which comes out very easy with a bit of Copper scrub pad wrapped around brush. Just a few passes and it's all good. I think a bit softer bullet would take care of this.
DELTAJOHN
Member
We do the same with our M&P 40, no issues, same bullet used. Different powders, have different results though. I got my worst case of leading using Win 231, go figure?
John
The only problem is with the Glock type of rifling. They use the same barrel as their 9 x 19s and then it becomes too thin when bored for the .40. Plus that rifling attracts lead.
Most competitors using Major IPSC loads change out the barrels of their Glocks.
The M&P does not suffer from this and you can shoot lead as much as you want.
Most competitors using Major IPSC loads change out the barrels of their Glocks.
The M&P does not suffer from this and you can shoot lead as much as you want.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
I have used lead bullets since about 1971. In any barrel with suitable rifling they can work very well. The exceptions are very shallow rifling (like the Marlin Micro-Groove barrels).
The primary consideration with lead bullets is the alloy being used in production.
Swaged bullets are made of very soft (nearly pure) lead, necessary to properly flow under the stresses of cold-forming under pressure in a die.
Cast bullets can be made of nearly any lead alloy. Old timers used up to about 10% tin to improve fluidity in the pouring process and inside the mold. More modern processes generally use far less tin and more antimony, arsenic, and other metals to improve hardness.
Pure lead has a Brinell Hardness Number of around 7 or so, if memory serves. 90% lead, 10% tin alloy is up around 10 or so BHN. Wheelweights are typically around 12 BHN. Linotype metal (84% lead, 12% antimony, 4% tin, long used for typesetting) is up around 18 or so BHN. Monotype and a few others are harder still.
In practical use, softer alloys suffer more from the pressures of heat and friction, and are generally suitable only for very light loads; whereas harder alloys hold up far better.
Pure lead is suitable only for velocities up to around 800 FPS or so, and even then residue from melting of the bullet base by the heat of the powder gases can be counted on to spatter and streak down the bore.
The old lead-tin combinations are not much better, giving perhaps another 100 FPS useful performance. Residue in the bore is even harder to remove.
In handguns, bullets cast of wheelweights work quite well up to about 1000 or 1200 FPS. I use these all the time in .38, .357, 9mm, .45, for practice ammo, and I have killed two mule deer with .357 magnum loads using these bullets.
Bullets made of linotype metal with a gas check (copper cup on the base) can be driven to 2000+ FPS with good results. I use these in full-power loadings in .30-30 rifles, and have taken several deer with them. I also use them in .30-06 loaded down to about .30/40 Krag velocities (2200 FPS or so) with very good results.
For cleaning your firearm after lead bullet use, I recommend:
1. use a bronze bristle bore brush in good condition to give the bore a thorough dry-brushing first. This will remove most lead residue and loosen the rest.
2. following the dry brushing, clean as normal (patches saturated with bore cleaner, wet brushing, dry patches until clean).
3. Stubborn deposits of leading will usually yield to an old bore brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool. This will not damage the bore at all (military arsenals have used steel wool-wrapped bore brushes with the cleaning rod chucked into a power drill for many years, with very good results and no measurable wear or damage resulting from this process).
4. Very stubborn deposits can be cleared by firing a few jacketed bullets through the bore, then cleaning as usual.
For the beginning user of lead bullets, it can be very useful to lead a bore badly one time. After that the user will exercise the necessary discretion to avoid this experience.
In semi-autos I work up the load to the point where it will reliably cycle the action. Faster burning powders work just fine, but also can have higher flame temperatures, so I stick with powders in the middle of the burning range. No machine needs to be used at full power all the time, and handguns are no exception.
No reason at all not to use lead bullets in recoil-operated semi-autos or revolvers. My old Model 19 has had at least 30,000 lead bullets run through it and it still turns in top scores every time I do my part right.
Not recommended in gas-operated semi-autos due to lead deposits developing in the barrel port, gas tube, etc.
The primary consideration with lead bullets is the alloy being used in production.
Swaged bullets are made of very soft (nearly pure) lead, necessary to properly flow under the stresses of cold-forming under pressure in a die.
Cast bullets can be made of nearly any lead alloy. Old timers used up to about 10% tin to improve fluidity in the pouring process and inside the mold. More modern processes generally use far less tin and more antimony, arsenic, and other metals to improve hardness.
Pure lead has a Brinell Hardness Number of around 7 or so, if memory serves. 90% lead, 10% tin alloy is up around 10 or so BHN. Wheelweights are typically around 12 BHN. Linotype metal (84% lead, 12% antimony, 4% tin, long used for typesetting) is up around 18 or so BHN. Monotype and a few others are harder still.
In practical use, softer alloys suffer more from the pressures of heat and friction, and are generally suitable only for very light loads; whereas harder alloys hold up far better.
Pure lead is suitable only for velocities up to around 800 FPS or so, and even then residue from melting of the bullet base by the heat of the powder gases can be counted on to spatter and streak down the bore.
The old lead-tin combinations are not much better, giving perhaps another 100 FPS useful performance. Residue in the bore is even harder to remove.
In handguns, bullets cast of wheelweights work quite well up to about 1000 or 1200 FPS. I use these all the time in .38, .357, 9mm, .45, for practice ammo, and I have killed two mule deer with .357 magnum loads using these bullets.
Bullets made of linotype metal with a gas check (copper cup on the base) can be driven to 2000+ FPS with good results. I use these in full-power loadings in .30-30 rifles, and have taken several deer with them. I also use them in .30-06 loaded down to about .30/40 Krag velocities (2200 FPS or so) with very good results.
For cleaning your firearm after lead bullet use, I recommend:
1. use a bronze bristle bore brush in good condition to give the bore a thorough dry-brushing first. This will remove most lead residue and loosen the rest.
2. following the dry brushing, clean as normal (patches saturated with bore cleaner, wet brushing, dry patches until clean).
3. Stubborn deposits of leading will usually yield to an old bore brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool. This will not damage the bore at all (military arsenals have used steel wool-wrapped bore brushes with the cleaning rod chucked into a power drill for many years, with very good results and no measurable wear or damage resulting from this process).
4. Very stubborn deposits can be cleared by firing a few jacketed bullets through the bore, then cleaning as usual.
For the beginning user of lead bullets, it can be very useful to lead a bore badly one time. After that the user will exercise the necessary discretion to avoid this experience.
In semi-autos I work up the load to the point where it will reliably cycle the action. Faster burning powders work just fine, but also can have higher flame temperatures, so I stick with powders in the middle of the burning range. No machine needs to be used at full power all the time, and handguns are no exception.
No reason at all not to use lead bullets in recoil-operated semi-autos or revolvers. My old Model 19 has had at least 30,000 lead bullets run through it and it still turns in top scores every time I do my part right.
Not recommended in gas-operated semi-autos due to lead deposits developing in the barrel port, gas tube, etc.
tenntucker
US Veteran
The M&P doesn't have the polygonal rifling like the Glock does. Lead works just fine.
BTW. The top of the line Kahr's have a polygonal barrel and can't shoot lead in them. Only the CW series allowes lead rounds.
BTW. The top of the line Kahr's have a polygonal barrel and can't shoot lead in them. Only the CW series allowes lead rounds.
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