Least potent round for 3 S&W revolvers?

[Klein Helmer]

Hello,

I just purchased three Smith and Wesson revolvers, and I am in the market for target ammo. Here is what I am looking for in the ammo:

high quality
light charge
doesn't subject the gun to unnecessary wear
smokeless

I am hoping someone here can help me track down target rounds that meet the preceding criteria for the following calibers:

.44
.38
.22

Thank you in advance.

- Helmer

 

[Will Carry]

I wouldn't worry so much about wearing out a Smith and Wesson revolver with target ammo. It can't be done. I use CCI ammo for my 22LRs. For my 38sp I used Winchester white box 130gr MC or Remington green box target loads, although the Remington ammo smokes more that the WWB. I don't shoot a .44sp.

 

[Klein Helmer]

I wouldn't worry so much about wearing out a Smith and Wesson revolver with target ammo. It can't be done. I use CCI ammo for my 22LRs. For my 38sp I used Winchester white box 130gr MC or Remington green box target loads, although the Remington ammo smokes more that the WWB. I don't shoot a .44sp.

Thanks for your response.

Is the only difference between .22 long and .22 short, the length of the charge? If so, is the .22 short less potent/can it be fired from a S&W 617?

 

[Will Carry]

The 22 short is shorter and has less of a charge. You can shoot it in a revolver just fine. They are a lot of fun to shoot, they make a hole in a piece of paper as good as a 22 magnum.

 

[Klein Helmer]

The 22 short is shorter and has less of a charge. You can shoot it in a revolver just fine. They are a lot of fun to shoot, they make a hole in a piece of paper as good as a 22 magnum.

Nice.

Would you say the .22 short is the dinkiest round in .22?

Do you know if there are any analogs to the short round in either .38 or .44?

 

[HKSmith]

Can you be more specific about the caliber and model of the revolvers - the answer depends on whether you're talking about a 19th century .44 Russian or a new .44 Magnum.

There is a "dinkier" .22 round available. It's the Aguila .22 Colibri. It uses no powder; the bullet is propelled by the priming compound. I've fired some through my Model 18-2 with good results for short-range plinking - you don't even need ear protection. I've also fired countless thousands of high speed .22 LR's through the gun since I bought it in 1965 with no apparent wear and tear; maybe my grandson will wear it out!

 

[Klein Helmer]

Can you be more specific about the caliber and model of the revolvers - the answer depends on whether you're talking about a 19th century .44 Russian or a new .44 Magnum.

There is a "dinkier" .22 round available. It's the Aguila .22 Colibri. It uses no powder; the bullet is propelled by the priming compound. I've fired some through my Model 18-2 with good results for short-range plinking - you don't even need ear protection. I've also fired countless thousands of high speed .22 LR's through the gun since I bought it in 1965 with no apparent wear and tear; maybe my grandson will wear it out!

Absolutely, I should have been more specific from the start. I am looking for the highest quality, dinkiest, least potent, non black smoke rounds for the following weapons:

S&W 629 .44 magnum
S&W 627 .357 mag/.38 special
S&W 617 .22

 

[tlay]

You can shoot 44 special in your 629. I would suggest any of the SWC bullets. On the 627 you can shoot 38 special with the same bullet type. On your 22 you can shoot ant of the 22s except 22 mag.
You need to be aware when shooting these shorter rounds than the guns were made for you need to really clean the cylinders out well or you will have trouble when you go to the longer ammo.

 

[Avery11]

Helmer,

First, welcome to the forum. I'm not sure if you're new to revolvers, or guns in general, but you have fine taste.

May I ask why you are seeking "dinky" loads? Are you shy of recoil or afraid of wearing out the guns?

If it is the former, the 629 will give you little pleasure. If it is the latter, have no fear because if you have the money to buy all the ammo it would take to wear out a Smith and Wesson, you can afford the replacement gun.

You are an interesting fellow and you have piqued my curiosity with your criteria.

Perhaps if you would share a little of your reasoning, we can help you more effectively.

A.

 

[Klein Helmer]

You can shoot 44 special in your 629. I would suggest any of the SWC bullets. On the 627 you can shoot 38 special with the same bullet type. On your 22 you can shoot ant of the 22s except 22 mag.
You need to be aware when shooting these shorter rounds than the guns were made for you need to really clean the cylinders out well or you will have trouble when you go to the longer ammo.

I see.

Thank you for your feedback. What are SWC bullets, if you wouldn't mind answering?

Also, that's a huge drag the 617 can't shoot the .22 magnums, are you sure about that, and if so, do you know what the most powerful (defense) round for that gun would be?

Finally, I hadn't considered the cleaning that the shorter rounds would make more frequently necessary. In your opinion, in the long run, what would be easier on the gun? Shorter, less powerful rounds that make a bigger mess, or longer, more standard rounds that make a bigger bang?

 

[tlay]

Yes, I am sure you can't shoot 22 mags. in your 617. This was originally a model 17 and before that a 22 masterpiece. Your 617 is the newer stainless version.
SWC stand for semi-wad-cutters. They are used in a lot of target shooting but you can shoot a lot of lead bullets in target shooting.
The reason you need to clean when you fire a 38 special in a 357 mag. or a 44 special in a 44 mag is because the round is a little shorter and you build up a little bit of crud, lead, powder in the cylinder when you fire. When you put the longer rounds in after they want to stick in this. It's no big deal if you are only going to shoot the shorter rounds. If not and you have fired a lot you will just need to clean the cylinders out. No problem. It is also cheaper to fire the shorter rounds.
I might suggest shooting some FWC which stands for full-wad-cutters in your 357. They are 38 special.

 

[shawn mccarver]

As I do not reload, I can only answer the question in terms of factory ammo.

The 38 Special 148 grain wadcutter target load fits the qualifications you mention.

As for 22, the 22 LR standard velocity target load would fit, although I cannot imagine any S&W wearing out with high velocity 22 LR. I do not see any advantage to using 22 Shorts or Longs. I think the 22 Long Rifle will do fine over the long haul.

As to the 44, it seems that the ordinary 44 Special load fits the bill, but even lighter would be the so-called "cowboy action" loads in 44 Special.

As to cleaning out the chambers, I have never had a problem using "specials" in "magnums." I use a brass bristle brush dipped in Hoppes No. 9 solvent. A few passes through each charge hole after each range session seems to solve the problem.

The 617 will not shoot 22 MRF (Magnum Rim Fire) without a spare cylinder. As to defense use in a 22 LR, I would use the 40 grain solid high velocity round.

 

[Klein Helmer]

Yes, I am sure you can't shoot 22 mags. in your 617. This was originally a model 17 and before that a 22 masterpiece. Your 617 is the newer stainless version.
SWC stand for semi-wad-cutters. They are used in a lot of target shooting but you can shoot a lot of lead bullets in target shooting.
The reason you need to clean when you fire a 38 special in a 357 mag. or a 44 special in a 44 mag is because the round is a little shorter and you build up a little bit of crud, lead, powder in the cylinder when you fire. When you put the longer rounds in after they want to stick in this. It's no big deal if you are only going to shoot the shorter rounds. If not and you have fired a lot you will just need to clean the cylinders out. No problem. It is also cheaper to fire the shorter rounds.
I might suggest shooting some FWC which stands for full-wad-cutters in your 357. They are 38 special.

Awesome, this is great info, thanks again.

Would you have any recommendations for defense rounds for the 617 since the .22 magnum isn't an option. (Yes I realize I'll probably be laughed out of here for suggesting defending myself with a .22 round - I have ten of them though!)

 

[Klein Helmer]

As I do not reload, I can only answer the question in terms of factory ammo.

The 38 Special 148 grain wadcutter target load fits the qualifications you mention.

As for 22, the 22 LR standard velocity target load would fit, although I cannot imagine any S&W wearing out with high velocity 22 LR. I do not see any advantage to using 22 Shorts or Longs. I think the 22 Long Rifle will do fine over the long haul.

As to the 44, it seems that the ordinary 44 Special load fits the bill, but even lighter would be the so-called "cowboy action" loads in 44 Special.

As to cleaning out the chambers, I have never had a problem using "specials" in "magnums." I use a brass bristle brush dipped in Hoppes No. 9 solvent. A few passes through each charge hole after each range session seems to solve the problem.

The 617 will not shoot 22 MRF (Magnum Rim Fire) without a spare cylinder. As to defense use in a 22 LR, I would use the 40 grain solid high velocity round.

Thanks for all the information. I'm really surprised at the quality of answers and the speed at which they're coming in. This is a pretty sweet forum.

I was under the impression that "cowboy action" denoted black powder, is that not the case? And if not, what makes these rounds in .44 different from the non cowboy .44 specials?

 

[tlay]

No the cowboy loads you find on the shelves are not black powder. They are lightly loaded rounds with a lead bullet made for cowboy action shooting, no recoil.
I too would suggest a 40 grain solid at high speed in your 617.

 

[Nevada Ed]

The .22 CB, short and long were a specialty load often used for low noise shooting such as "Shooting gallery" or pest control in populated areas.

Both the shot and long shoot a 29gr LRN bullet at 710 fps in a rifle but the added length of the long makes loading a little easier in a revolver.

You can step up in velocity with the short 27gr hp bullet that hits 1105 in a rifle...........however if noise is no problem the Long Rifle ammo may be cheaper if you can find it. Most ammo around 1200fps is great for target and plinking.

 

[Neumann]

You need to use a lead bullet for light loads. Jacketed bullets may stick in the barrel, or shoot erratically. Soft lead, e.g., swaged wadcutters, are good for up to about 700 fps before leading is a problem. A semi-wadcutter (e.g., Keith style) bullet is easier to load and cleaner to shoot. They are available in any caliber, including .44 (0.431) and .38 (0.357). I use round-nose flat-point bullets for better feeding in a carbine. It doesn't matter with a revolver - if it fits, it shoots. Hard cast bullets are good up to 1800 fps before serious leading occurs. You won't come close to that in a revolver, but easily achieved in a carbine.

.44 Special and .38 Special cases are about 1/8" shorter than their respective magnum calibers. Light loads ignite more consistently in smaller cases.

I think there is a .22 "BB" load, which lighter than even a .22 Short.

You won't wear out a barrel, even with jacketed loads. The pressure and velocity are too low to cause erosion or wear. Hot magnum loads with light bullets cause more damage, mainly to the forcing cone and frame (gas cutting).

As a caution, don't "Bogart" your revolver. Open and close it gently, with two hands. Don't flip it open or shut like a movie gangster. One time is enough to spring the crane.

 

[Klein Helmer]

Helmer,

First, welcome to the forum. I'm not sure if you're new to revolvers, or guns in general, but you have fine taste.

May I ask why you are seeking "dinky" loads? Are you shy of recoil or afraid of wearing out the guns?

If it is the former, the 629 will give you little pleasure. If it is the latter, have no fear because if you have the money to buy all the ammo it would take to wear out a Smith and Wesson, you can afford the replacement gun.

You are an interesting fellow and you have piqued my curiosity with your criteria.

Perhaps if you would share a little of your reasoning, we can help you more effectively.

A.

Hello, somehow I missed your response initially.

Yes, I am absolutely new to guns, before the range portion of my conceal/carry course I had never even fired one.

I'm not worried about the recoil. Before I bought my own .44 I was firing magnum rounds through a rental and loving it. I can tend to get a bit OCD about new things though (almost said "toys", jeez), and the concern is with putting unnecessary wear on the weapon.

It seems like the consensus is I should put that concern out of my mind.

Thanks for the feedback.

No the cowboy loads you find on the shelves are not black powder. They are lightly loaded rounds with a lead bullet made for cowboy action shooting, no recoil.
I too would suggest a 40 grain solid at high speed in your 617.

OK, thank you.

The guy I was talking to at the gun store seemed to think almost all the cowboy loads were black powder. Fortunately, it sounds like that's not the case.

 

[Klein Helmer]

The .22 CB, short and long were a specialty load often used for low noise shooting such as "Shooting gallery" or pest control in populated areas.

Both the shot and long shoot a 29gr LRN bullet at 710 fps in a rifle but the added length of the long makes loading a little easier in a revolver.

You can step up in velocity with the short 27gr hp bullet that hits 1105 in a rifle...........however if noise is no problem the Long Rifle ammo may be cheaper if you can find it. Most ammo around 1200fps is great for target and plinking.

Sounds good.

I appreciate it.

You need to use a lead bullet for light loads. Jacketed bullets may stick in the barrel, or shoot erratically. Soft lead, e.g., swaged wadcutters, are good for up to about 700 fps before leading is a problem. A semi-wadcutter (e.g., Keith style) bullet is easier to load and cleaner to shoot. They are available in any caliber, including .44 (0.431) and .38 (0.357). I use round-nose flat-point bullets for better feeding in a carbine. It doesn't matter with a revolver - if it fits, it shoots. Hard cast bullets are good up to 1800 fps before serious leading occurs. You won't come close to that in a revolver, but easily achieved in a carbine.

.44 Special and .38 Special cases are about 1/8" shorter than their respective magnum calibers. Light loads ignite more consistently in smaller cases.

I think there is a .22 "BB" load, which lighter than even a .22 Short.

You won't wear out a barrel, even with jacketed loads. The pressure and velocity are too low to cause erosion or wear. Hot magnum loads with light bullets cause more damage, mainly to the forcing cone and frame (gas cutting).

As a caution, don't "Bogart" your revolver. Open and close it gently, with two hands. Don't flip it open or shut like a movie gangster. One time is enough to spring the crane.

Thank you.

Could you or anyone else give me a layman's explanation of wad cutters?[

Also, thanks for the head's up on "bogarting." I don't think I would have done it anyway, but early in my research saw a video of a guy explaining the damage it can cause. I consider myself lucky that more knowledgeable people are trying to save me from being an idiot and ruining my new gun.

 

[tlay]

Wadcutters are a bullet that was made for target shooting, they make a nice round hole in the target that is easy to score. You can tell them by the fact that there doesn't look like there is a bullet in the brass. It is pretty much even with the case. It is flat across. Some people in the past and some still do load these hotter and use them for self defense.