Lee loadmasters thrower ran dry

Unmentioned by others, is the backwards primer that got your attention in the first place.
yeah ... you might want to look into that too.


The ONE way I've figured out with a Loadmaster to deal with primer issues is to buy JUST the powder through die body and lock ring for your particular caliber....

Put it in the empty turret hole where the priming happens, solves ALL kinds of primer issues. (holds the case in alignment!!)

However, the upside down one was probably the little slider that moves them into position snagging it....
 
I weigh every powder drop and when the loading block is full I inspect with a light. I'm in no rush.

I am down to the very bottom of my SR7625. I want to see how many rounds I can get out of one pound. I'm down to about 1300 loaded. I figure there's enough left for about 100 rounds max. Since I weigh each one I'll stop when I get inconsistent drops.

Loading the way you do seems horribly dangerous to me.
 
I had the same thing happen to me. I had about a thousand rounds of lead bullet 38's loaded up, then moved to a new town and joined a range where I can't shoot lead bullets.

So I pulled all those lead bullets, threw the powder away, and reloaded a hundred or so with plated bullets. Took them to the range and had a half dozen missfire/squibs with stuck bullets as a result. I don't shoot fast, so I caught them and knocked them back out with no problem.

Set that brass aside and quickly loaded up a hundred more from the stack of now empty, but primed cases I had handy. This time I checked each case for powder charge. All good. Same results though. More misfires.

So, I went back, pulled all the bullets again, then punched out the unfired primers. ALL of them...thinking maybe some of the primers had been damaged during the bullet pulling, and seated new primers. Checked each powder charge.

No more problems. So far.

So now I check powder charge about three times, even when I use a Lee dipper.
 
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No matter how many rounds you can crank out on a progressive press, when something like this happens, they should all come apart for safety's sake. :-(

I've never owned a progressive, though I've thought about it a few times. My Lee Classic Turret does just fine and I have complete control of the round that is being loaded. Yeah, I know, 4 operations for 1 loaded round; but that loaded round will feed/function/fire when I pull the trigger. I only load 100 rounds at a time and my powder measure never gets below half empty before I re-fill.

I never load ammo if I feel I have to be in a hurry to do so. That's when you make mistakes! And that can be the difference between a "bang" and a "ka-boom"! Reloading ammunition is a lot of little steps; each one is just as important as the others. Miss a step, and something is gonna go wrong! :-(

Whether turret or progressive (I use both) you still get to look in the case for powder before placing a bullet for seating.
 
Whether turret or progressive (I use both) you still get to look in the case for powder before placing a bullet for seating.

And I checked every one of those shells. I took them out of the press before seating and looked down into the shell. Each one showed powder. The problem was, you didn't realize it was too little powder. A double charge is pretty obvious but undercharge you can't really tell just glancing at it.
 
If in doubt - put them on a scale and weigh them. Start with a fully loaded round as your control value then check the weights. Should be able to pick out the light loads.

if you are unsure of anything after that - pull them down and start over.
 
Weighing finished cartridges doesn't tell you anything. Brass and bullet inconsistencies can easily add up to more than the charge weights.
 
Just took the smooth end of a big long drill bid, slid it down the barrel and bumped the bullet until it backed out of the gun out from the force cone
Maybe you should invest in something other than a drill bit to pound out your squibs. Bits are very hard and will peen (dent) your rifling.
 
I personally are not going to bash the OP but I would pull them all and chalk it up to experience, time is free with this hobby.

Thewelshm
 
Maybe you should invest in something other than a drill bit to pound out your squibs. Bits are very hard and will peen (dent) your rifling.

Very true a brass rod or a hardwood dowel. I carry several dowels in my range bag. Don
 
If in doubt - put them on a scale and weigh them. Start with a fully loaded round as your control value then check the weights. Should be able to pick out the light loads.

if you are unsure of anything after that - pull them down and start over.

Now THIS could save me a lot of time. I've already pulled apart and re-reloaded about 45 of those several hundred rounds. It's a pain in the neck wacking that hammer (and noisy) to knock the bullet and powder out.
 
Maybe you should invest in something other than a drill bit to pound out your squibs. Bits are very hard and will peen (dent) your rifling.

I understand. I just had to find something to improvise with. All it was was the opposite end (not the drilling end) of the bid that was completely smooth and the diameter was almost 357 (like a smooth 355 cylinder) so there was not any banging around or rough scraping. Just a smooth bump to bump the bullet out.
 
Sorry. But I entered Powder Charge indicator die into the midway search engine and everything else but that came up when I did it. Thanks!

Anytime.Now remember if you get one you have to look at it to see if the little indicator thingy pops up. Like a turkey thermometer.:D Never used on myself but if I had a progressive I would.
 
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