Lemon Squeezer Dating

Do you mean remove the hammer and drift the pin out and flip the strut around?
 
Correct. That's the only thing that I can think of that might be wrong. That's the best I can figure with this long-distance smithing.
 
A-ha! The hammer is sitting correctly now, but I made an oopsie with the trigger spring. It will go click, but the hammer won't rebound and the trigger won't reset. I think I put the spring in wrong. I'll fix it shortly.77E1B0EC-2B69-4A33-8C6B-3D77E2005E9C.jpg
 
Ok now this is strange. When I put the trigger spring into the gun, and manhandle the trigger guard back on, it will dry fire but it won't reset unless I do it manually. I wonder if I'm not installing the trigger spring correctly.
 
Check to make sure that the longer leg of the spring is on the trigger. Firing pin is out of the breach now too.
 
Check the length with calipers as I believe one leg longer. It's possible the spring is slipping out of position when the T-guard is being reinstalled. Put a mark on one leg and note which way it faces. Reinstall and test. If it doesn't reset then remove the spring and reinstall with the mark facing the opposite way, i.e., flip it over. Did I say that I hate reinstalling DA trigger springs?
 
I don't know if this helps or not but here are some pictures of the orientation of the trigger spring. According to Chicoine and as Mike alluded to earlier, the rebound function is performed by spring tension of the mainspring and stirrup. So, it is unlikely the trigger spring is affecting the rebound.


attachment.php





attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • shdisassembly.jpg
    shdisassembly.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 70
  • shschematic.jpg
    shschematic.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 72
This helps immensely. Thank you. Could the stirrup have been the right way round originally? I've worked on a fair number of old guns, and this one is a doozy!
 
You're welcome. I'm no expert but I suspect it was correct initially. It's possible the mainspring is weak. You might try putting a spent primer or some folded paper between the strain screw and mainspring to see if you can increase the tension and restore the rebound. For more specific info on these guns, buy a PDF copy of Assembling/Disassembling Antique Firearms by David Chicoine. I use the free Amazon Kindle reader to view it. I'd like to say it will tell you your exact problem, but it doesn't. He starts with a factory assembled gun and tells you how to disassemble it. But, in the areas of your concern (hammer stirrup/spring/trigger spring) he just says note the orientation so you can put it back that way when reassembling. Nevertheless, it is an excellent reference book, with pictures, if you plan to work on more of these old guns.


If you look at the first picture I posted and do a close-up (press WIN KEY and + simultaneously) of the stirrup, you'll notice the concave part of the stirrup arm is down. That's how it should be oriented, IMO. Also, in the second picture, note the orientation of the stirrup (460) and hammer (449).
 
Last edited:
awesome i also want one of those... lately looking into the classics. could take her off your hands if you ever decide to part ways...lol
 
OK, I think the stirrup is now backward. I ask to have it reversed but I believe it was correct initially. Pass the crow but I still can't explain the original hammer rebound problem. The only thing that we haven't addressed is the mainspring. I'll see if I have a known 5th model, .38 Safety Hammerless mainspring to measure. I wish I had the revolver in-hand as all this changing and testing could be done in an hour or so.
 
Back to the original question, I have a 81xxx in overall excellent condition except for the nickel finish. I've fired black powder rounds in it but any idea to DOM?
 
I will disassemble the gun again, put the stirrup back where is belongs, and see about this mainspring. I have already located a brand new production one from Jack First Gun Parts if I need it.
 
I measured my .38 Safety mainspring, and it measures 3.162" from the butt to the tip of the horns. The closest I can get with a ruler is 3 5/32" or just over 3 1/8".
 
The new spring available from Jack First is 3 3/16" long. I'll find a ruler and measure my current one.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top