Light Strike Malfunctions

[rgeorge]

Hello! My first post. I'll get to my question in a little bit, but first, some background. I bought an SD9VE a few months ago and have around 500 rounds through it. I clean it after every trip to the range. On this last trip, I got multiple light strike malfunctions. Like around 10 out of 100. My Sig P365 did fine with the same ammo, so I was pretty sure it was the SD9VE and not the ammo's fault.

After reading in this forum (thank you so much to those who have shared their expertise!!), I learned that a dirty striker channel can cause this. So I took out the striker assembly. That striker channel was a mess. It had more brass shavings than you could shake a stick at. Using Q-tips and 91% rubbing alcohol, I cleaned the striker channel until the Q-tips came clean and there was no visible debris inside (used a flashlight). It took probably 15 Q-tips before it was clean. The brass shavings just kept coming out. The other thing I noticed is that the whole striker assembly and channel was saturated with Ballistol. Ooops. Who did that? I did that. I know now what I did wrong. When cleaning the gun, I sprayed the Ballistol in instead of applying it to the patch first and then cleaning. I got a ton of Ballistol inside the striker channel.

So I cleaned it all up, left the striker channel and striker assembly dry, and put it back together. I'll go to the range soon to test and see if I fixed my problem.

Thinking my Sig P365 might be fouled too, since I clean them both the same way, I took it apart. The striker channel was a little dirty, but did not have any brass shavings that I could see.

So here are my questions: Did I cause the brass shavings to pile up in my SD9VE because I let Ballistol into the striker channel? Or is an SD9VE just more prone to getting brass shavings in there, more so than a P365? Because my P365 didn't have any.

I hope that made sense. Sorry for the long first post and thanks in advance!

 

[Steve912]

Good work!

Inspect the striker hole in breech face. If it's 'sharp edged',
that can enhance the primer-shaving. I don't recall if that
model has a circular chamfer around the hole, or if it's
rectangular; I think the rectangular opening with sharp,
squared off edges is more prone to shaving primers.

I put a very slight chamfer on the striker
hole on my Sigma .40, mostly on the upper and lower
(short sides of rectangle) edges. It seemed to reduce
volume of shavings.

Also check the bore for the striker safety plunger.
Shavings can build up there, impeding movement
of the safety plunger, causing it to drag on striker
(instead of getting out of the way) and rob some
of the striker's momentum.

 

[rgeorge]

Thanks Steve. I did not check the striker safety plunger. I'll have to find a video on how to do that and check in next time. In the mean time, I'll post after I take it to the range and let you all know how it worked.

I would still love to know if my over-oiling helped cause it. It's bone dry in there now, and going forward I will apply the clp with a patch instead of spraying it. I guess I'll find out over time.

 

[sgtsandman]

For my striker fired pistols, I have used a dry lube on them to make sure they don't collect stuff in the channel. Only two of my pistols are striker fired, so that information may only be anecdotal. That being said, I haven't had any issues. I do still check the channel and clean the striker on occasion just to be sure.

 

[OKFC05]

"Did I cause the brass shavings to pile up in my SD9VE because I let Ballistol into the striker channel?"

In short, yes. The white nylon bushings in the striker provide all the necessary lubrication for it. Clean and dry is the right way. Spraying lube in the action inside the frame is also a mistake, and will collect residue. I use CRC "Dry" silicone to clean out the action (white gasoline is the propellant) and wipe it out. Be careful of the white fiber damper in the trigger return spring: the spring tends to break from harmonic stress without it.
Lube only the bearing rails on the slide and the sear interface to the striker; put a touch of grease on the shiny spots on the barrel exterior.

 

[Steve912]

I would still love to know if my over-oiling helped cause it.

Kinda-sorta.

The shavings happen, whether the channel is oiled or dry,
from movement of casehead against breech, unlocking/
extraction timing vs pressure (presumably the primer cup
bulges slightly, at some point in firing) and contours of
the striker/firing pin hole.

If they hit a dry channel, they move a bit more freely. If
they hit an oily channel, they tend to clump together and
present more of an obstruction to the striker movement.

It's not like oil magically pulls stuff in.

 

[rgeorge]

Kinda-sorta.

The shavings happen, whether the channel is oiled or dry,
from movement of casehead against breech, unlocking/
extraction timing vs pressure (presumably the primer cup
bulges slightly, at some point in firing) and contours of
the striker/firing pin hole.

If they hit a dry channel, they move a bit more freely. If
they hit an oily channel, they tend to clump together and
present more of an obstruction to the striker movement.

It's not like oil magically pulls stuff in.

Makes sense. Thanks!

 

[rgeorge]

Spraying lube in the action inside the frame is also a mistake, and will collect residue. I use CRC "Dry" silicone to clean out the action (white gasoline is the propellant) and wipe it out. Be careful of the white fiber damper in the trigger return spring: the spring tends to break from harmonic stress without it.

Thank you. This brings up a whole other issue. I have sprayed Ballistol inside the frame. In order to clean it out, will I need to disassemble anything?

 

[OKFC05]

Thank you. This brings up a whole other issue. I have sprayed Ballistol inside the frame. In order to clean it out, will I need to disassemble anything?

I wouldn't. I have Sigmas that have been heavily used for loaners and trainers and detailed disassembled only for repairs. Suggest you clean as I described above with CRC silicone and wipe dry.
Although some gun designs tolerate it better than others, I am not a fan of spray oils: 90% of the oil goes where it is not needed and stays sticky.

 

[AnthemBassMan]

If the excess Ballistol in the frame is causing you any concern, just grab a can of compressed air and blow out what you can. Just be sure not to shake the can or hold it upside down while spraying. You don't want anything to freeze and possibly crack.

L8R,
Matt

 

[rosewood]

I have used carb cleaner to clean out the Sigma frames on more than one occasion, doesn't seem to hurt it any like some plastics. Then blow out with compressed air. Only lightly oil moving parts that need oil.

If you don't like that idea, wash in the kitchen sink with hot water, dawn and tooth brush, should take all oil out of the frame. Then dry with hair dryer if you like.

Rosewood

 

[jimbo728]

I fully agree with post 2, Steves post.
The same problem surfaced in one of my pistols. The sharp edges of the firing pin hole in the bolt face was chopping primer pieces into the FP channel. Shavings were visible on the bolt face too, an important clue to watch for. Lightly, I mean lightly chamfering the FP hole edges drastically reduced , if not solved the problem.
Jim

 

[rosewood]

Just curious, what did you guys chamfer the firing pin hole with? Small file?

 

[jimbo728]

My FP hole is round. Used a hand turned,lightly,3/16 (.187) drill bit. Long enough to fit through the slide to reach the FP hole.
Pic shows what I used. Again, all it takes is a few light hand turns to remove the sharp edge. If you have a rectangular hole it might work by dressing the inside edges,gently, with a smaller bit.
Jim
ps: Thanks again to Fastbolt for sharing this useful information on this issue.

 

[Steve912]

Just curious, what did you guys chamfer the firing pin hole with? Small file?

On the 'original' Sigma (SW40F? Crs...), the striker
aperture is rectangular, long axis vertical.

I used a square needle file to *lightly* break the
sharp edges on narrow horizontal sides of the
aperture. Seemed to reduce shaving of primers,
in my case of one!

 

[rosewood]

On the 'original' Sigma (SW40F? Crs...), the striker
aperture is rectangular, long axis vertical.

I used a square needle file to *lightly* break the
sharp edges on narrow horizontal sides of the
aperture. Seemed to reduce shaving of primers,
in my case of one!

That is what I was thinking. I do have SW40F and SW40V as well as to SDs and a 2 M&Ps.

Rosewood

 

[rgeorge]

Finally went to the range and put 150 rounds through it with no light strike issues. Problem solved it seems. Thanks for all the advice everyone. I'm not sure i have the confidence in my own manual skills to put a chamfer on the sharp edges. I think I'll make striker channel inspection/cleaning a part of my regular cleaning routine for now. Appreciate the help!

 

[george t]

i know this a late in the game to be posting, but i read all the posts and cleaned the striker assembly and channel and put it back together dry. i shot it today and the entire magazine had ftf's with light primer strikes. i am shooting a sd9ve with an Apex trigger kit and an NDZ 15lb guide rod assembly. i am shooting a 147gr plated bullet and 2.8 grains of titegroup. my CZ75BD shoots the same bullet with no problems. what am i doing wrong? do i need a new striker assembly?
thanks in advance.

 

[armorer951]

Could be the striker assembly, or perhaps the aftermarket trigger kit causing the issues.
Did you install the kit, and did the kit include a different trigger bar? Just wondering if the firing pin safety is not getting pushed out of the way completely. If this is the case, you may see some abnormal peening on the firing pin block or the striker.

I don't think the guide rod would be a problem, unless the slide is not going fully into battery for some reason.


Carter

 

[Model 15-4ever]

Generally just a bad idea to bath any handguns in solvent or oil. Use judiciously. Wet a patch or cotton swap and clean with that. Saturated toothbrush is another bad idea.

Type of solvent also matters. Back when we had the S&W 1076, the ole standby Hoppes 9 would turn into goo in the FP channel and cause misfires, slamfires and malfunctions. Part of that was a maintenance procedures problem, part of it was the formulation of Hoppes 9. Went to Shooter Choice MC #7 and the problem was largely eliminated. Hoppes now makes a product called "Hoppes Semi-Auto" - similar formulation as Shooters Choice MC #7. And Shooters Choice now makes a product called Lead Remover - similar formulation to Hoppes 9. Things come full circle.