Lighten Trigger Pull on S&W 638??

[sourdough44]

I have a NIB Mod 638 & an older 649, both 'bodyguard' type 38's. The older gun has a much better, lighter/smoother pull than the new 638. Any tips on how I could lighten the pull & still have reliability with the new 638? I have cut springs in the past but just wondering if a replacement or cutting a 'coil' or 2 would help. Thanks.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

DO NOT lighten the springs on a self-defense revolver buy cutting them. You are depending on that revolver to protect your life.

If you want to smooth up the trigger pull buy a set of snap-caps and dry fire the revolver 400/500 times and it will smooth up a lot. It's also good practice for trigger control.

 

[sourdough44]

Well, maybe that's why the older one is so smooth & the newer not. For now I'll just shoot the older & keep the other NIB. It just seemed a little more than need be. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Wee Hooker]

You can get aftermarket spring kits from Brownells that will help lighten it up but I wouldn't recommend it on a protection gun either. Still, I'd do a spring change before I cut a factory one.
Oddly enough, I personally find the trigger pull on my newer MIM parted J frames to be relatively smooth vs my older J frames.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

You could simply replace the 18LB factory rebound with a 14-16LB Wolff rebound spring. It will remain 100% reliable but with a easier trigger pull. I don't like messing with the main spring on a defensive revolver.

 

[akviper]

What ArchAngelCD said. Dry firing will be the cheapest, safest, and most beneficial tune up you can give your hand and revolver. If you worry about dry firing breaking something buy some snap caps but you don't really need them. You need to know how to perform safety checks if you start replacing springs as you can defeat some of the safeties built into the gun. Messing with springs without knowing what you are doing can result in a gun going bang when you didn't want it to or not going bang when you want it to.

 

[magnum12pm]

You could simply replace the 18LB factory rebound with a 14-16LB Wolff rebound spring. It will remain 100% reliable but with a easier trigger pull. I don't like messing with the main spring on a defensive revolver.

Yes I have a 16 pound rebound in my J frame it works well. It of course has nothing to do with reliability. Do not change the hammer spring, don't take the chance, if using for self defense.

 

[sourdough44]

Since I have the 2, I'll just keep it stock. I know I could look somewhere, but where is this 'rebound spring'? Sounds like a side plate removal to get at it? Just asking.

 

[yska08]

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html#post1029060

Here is about detail strip. In the third picture you see an rectangular shaped part, next to the trigger(left). Inside this part sits a spring. That is called the trigger rebound spring. You can put a lighter spring in, but be carefull if it's your personal defense weapon. You don't want a too light trigger pull. If it's onyou all day, safety first! When you are in stress, your fine motoric skills are gone! Too light trigger might set the gun off too fast, faster than you might have anticipated! Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but that's just my 2 cent.

 

[pinkymingeo]

My CCW revolvers have light main and rebound springs in them, and have been 100% reliable for thousands of rounds. I shoot them pretty well, too, because pulling the trigger isn't like lifting an anvil with my index finger. If you change springs, just test for function. A personal defense revolver doesn't have to be a clunker to work just fine.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Since I have the 2, I'll just keep it stock. I know I could look somewhere, but where is this 'rebound spring'? Sounds like a side plate removal to get at it? Just asking.

The rebound spring is the spring that resets the trigger. It's a little coil spring that sits behind the trigger. It fits inside a block called the rebound block.

 

[DaveB57]

My CCW revolvers have light main and rebound springs in them, and have been 100% reliable for thousands of rounds. I shoot them pretty well, too, because pulling the trigger isn't like lifting an anvil with my index finger. If you change springs, just test for function. A personal defense revolver doesn't have to be a clunker to work just fine.

I agree...I've replaced my 66's & 642's springs w\ Wilson Combat Custom-Tune spring kits. They supply enough trigger spring options to test out...& even the heaviest trigger options are a big improvement over the stock ones (keeping the stock ones for future use if needed). I even contacted Nick @ Wilson Combat & he said that they have sold those spring kits for over 10 years w\ no complaints, but if I ever have an issue...let him know.

 

[RightWinger]

dry firing will work just fine, and changing springs will improve the feel as well, but why not just get a S&W manual and learn how to perform an "action job"? This does the same thing as dry firing it several thousands of times would do, and it will give you the confidence in knowing how to take apart your gun and re-assemble it. Dry firing is very important but a good action job will take much less time and effort and make the gun feel lighter while not having to swap out springs.

 

[sourdough44]

I do have a S&W book awaiting my next Midway order. What is the best book that would give detailer info about S&W springs & changing? Yes the link above to the FAQ's was helpful too. I have swapped & adjusted triggers on rifles & AR's, so I am somewhat familar. I see that S&W book that has SN info, would that also cover revolver dis-assembly? Thanks, & no I don't plan to mess with things at the moment. I'm also recently smitten by an HK-45c, so that's been stealing my affections.