I recently purchased a used Model 10, K frame, square butt revolver. I want to install a Tyler T-Grip adaptor. After removing the screw, when I tried to remove the original wooden stocks I couldn't get them to budge. They appear to be fused to the frame. Any idea how I can remove them without damage either to the revolver or the stocks themselves? Any and all suggestions greatly appreciated.
'lil help please
- Thread starter Mr Z
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With the screw completely unscrewed but not removed, push firmly and steadily on the screw with your driver. If that still doesn't dislodge it, tap gently on the screw head with a plastic or wood driver handle. Once you get the first one out, you can push the other out thru the frame.
gwpercle
Member
I have used a thin , double edged razor blade (be very careful) to work an edge under the grip then slowly and carefully work the thin metal blade around the grip between the wood and metal .
This will loosen the stuck on grip without damaging the wood .
Years of dried oil have "glued" the wood to metal , working the razor blade through the stuck parts will break the bond.
Be careful , razor blades are sharp (tape one edge) and be careful hammering on the partially removed grip screw. Hammer too hard , wood breaks and/or the threaded grip part (escutcheon ?spelling ) in the wood grip will be driven out .
Do not try and pry the grips off with a screw driver , you have to break the glue and use something very thin and strong...there may be a better tool than a razor blade but that was what us old guy's had and used . You can also dull one edge with a stone for safer handling .
Good Luck ,
Gary
This will loosen the stuck on grip without damaging the wood .
Years of dried oil have "glued" the wood to metal , working the razor blade through the stuck parts will break the bond.
Be careful , razor blades are sharp (tape one edge) and be careful hammering on the partially removed grip screw. Hammer too hard , wood breaks and/or the threaded grip part (escutcheon ?spelling ) in the wood grip will be driven out .
Do not try and pry the grips off with a screw driver , you have to break the glue and use something very thin and strong...there may be a better tool than a razor blade but that was what us old guy's had and used . You can also dull one edge with a stone for safer handling .
Good Luck ,
Gary
ACORN
Member
I don’t know how thin they are on the edge but auto parts stores and of course Amazon sell plastic razor blades for removing inspiration stickers. You may have to find a real parts store to get these. You could sand or stone it to get and edge and then tap it between the stock and frame with less risk of scratching
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NO! to all above. Remove screw. Hold gun flat and tap barrel with a wooden mallet. Just a sharp rap.
ACORN
Member
This is probably the simplest and cheapest to try. Not to mention the way to remove the side plate without buggering it up.
I’d assumed this had been tried.
Jack Flash
Member
Works every time for me.
Just be very careful not to let the screwdriver slip as you gently push on the screw. If it slips off the screw, it can badly gouge the wood! Please do not ask how I know this!
This is how it was taught at the factory armorer’s class
I have pushed gently on the grip screw for many years. This is probably OK. Roy Fishpaw warned me against hammering on the screw, recommended removing the screw completely and a slightly smaller punch which could be inserted at a slight angle, so that I would be going against the body of the grip, rather than the escutcheon. He, too, was concerned about knocking out the escutcheon and taking wood with it.
Better safe than sorry.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I loosen the grips screw about 5-6 turns and tap with a rubber hammer. Pops the stock panel right off. In my experience tapping barrel does nothing to the stocks.
What Art Doc said, always works for me.
All this talk about tapping the screw. Works fine on wood grips, most of the time, but do not try on the old black plastic grips. Just rap the barrel. Its simple applied physics. But NO, lets make it complicated.
If any you boys are from the South, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Its not a ***** cat ,its a river fish. Even we dont eat four legged cat.
OK Mr. gmborkovic, could you be a whole lot more specific on where and how you "rap the barrel". I have done this for the sideplate, but the stocks never fell off while doing it. Thanks
Well, we do all seem to have a technique that works for us. The big difference is how much we dislike what others are doing....
Thank you, I appreciate the caution and the reminder of what the factory says in their school.
Y'all have a good weekend!
Thank you, I appreciate the caution and the reminder of what the factory says in their school.
Y'all have a good weekend!
John, when you remove the side plate, you all ready have the grips removed. At least I do. The Magnas and Targets cover the rear side plate screw.
I had a model 15 a year or so back that had the stocks welded in place with old dried oil (maybe WD40?). I tapped on the screw, tapped on the barrel and used a rubber mallet on the stocks themselves, with no luck. My ed's red was all used up at the time & I was lacking the BLO or something needed for a new batch, so out of desperation I poured a kerosene & tranny fluid mixture into a container and soaked the stocks overnight.
I had to rig up stacks of books and such to support the gun in the right position, but they stocks came off with almost no effort at all afterwards. It just needed the old dried up solvents and/or oils broken down to free them.
You may already have them off by now, but for future reference, this works.
I had to rig up stacks of books and such to support the gun in the right position, but they stocks came off with almost no effort at all afterwards. It just needed the old dried up solvents and/or oils broken down to free them.
You may already have them off by now, but for future reference, this works.
After all this advice, I wonder what finally worked?
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